1976fenderhead

[quote name='garybaldy' timestamp='1341929097' post='1726363'] Got mine in black and silver writing, although I actually quite like the bare metal one I have as well (if the writing didn't wear off [/quote] Those are actually the options I'm considering... Would you mind posting photos of both to help me decide? 8)

[quote name='Mattbass97' timestamp='1341772649' post='1723907'] People said they've had problems with the battery compartment being cheap and Breaking well I purposely forced mine a bit and it's sturdy just like the one off a 105q bass wah and I've had no problems with either! [/quote] Funny you say that, because the one in my 105q broke. It's not sturdy at all. Luckily, I emailed Dunlop and they sent me 2. The one in my MXR M80 never broke though (because I didn't use it). I had it for 2 or 3 years. Loved the Color button but it never really worked live. Good at home and in rehearsal studios though, when you get there and have a different crappy amp every time, just leave the random amp flat and use the tone from the Color button + a tweak with the EQ, you'll get a sound you can trust every time. Live though, too scooped, makes you disappear in the front of house mix, then you turn up and it gets too bassy and the sound guy goes nuts. I always ended up leaving it off. Also, though it's brilliant with a pick, it's a bit useless with fingers because all your definition is gone. Distortion is very weak IMO, only bearable with Gain and Blend below noon for a mild overdrive, which kind of disappears when the rest of the band comes in. If you go for higher settings, low end is gone and so are you in the mix. I kind of miss the tone of recording playing with a pick with the Color button, but that's about it, didn't really have any other use or it...

[quote name='phil.i.stein' timestamp='1341600310' post='1721758'] the cheap (but not crap) option for harmonics/light od : Hartke VXL. - DI and tone-shaper. one in the FS forum for £40. (not mine, i'm keeping it) [/quote] Ah, another one I sold for whatever reason but didn't mean to use it clean before... Might be good for that!

[quote name='chrismuzz' timestamp='1341581160' post='1721290'] Sansamps sound great clean, nice and warm and biiiig if you don't want the mid scoop try the VT Bass? [/quote] I've just tried a SansAmp and sold it because it masks certain frequencies even on clean that I would rather keep. Too much colouring. The VT Bass I bought and returned the next day (had my previous amp then) because I found it killed dynamics too much. One I had before, the Catalinbread SFT, I loved it clean but wanted it for distortion and didn't like it so much for that so I sold it. Now I might get one again to see how it goes clean with this amp...

Looking for anything interesting, can be musicians to start something or a band already running. For originals or tributes, stuff I like is varied and around Muse, Kings of Leon, Tool, QOTSA, Foo Fighters, Helmet, DFA 1979, etc. Would be very interested in an instrumental project Battles-style based around loops, mixing instruments with electronic stuff, etc. For covers generally, besides the above, I like to play funk/soul/Motown (Stevie Wonder, Jamiroquai, Prince, Michael Jackson, James Brown, etc). Have gear, car, etc. Within 1 hr of East London is good for me. The one caveat: NOT interested in playing a lot of weddings. My thing is bars and pubs and evening gigs. Functions here and there ok, weddings here and there ok, but main thing can't be weddings because there's too much staring at walls and waiting involved and I have better things to do with my Saturday afternoons

[quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1341579185' post='1721227'] DHA VT-1 Bass Drive, I have one for exactly the same reason. [/quote] That's the one I'm eyeing to be honest, but if there was some simulator not using a valve from some brand I'd prefer that, so I wouldn't need a 12v PSA... You think Dave will paint it black on request? (hate those finishes)

Got a new amp which is better than the last except the last had a valve preamp and now I miss that tone. I'm looking for something that will add that warmth to my new amp. I'll have it on all the time, it's meant to be clean and not overdriven, I just want those rich upper harmonics that give the sound that 'vocal', 'hairy' quality... 9v preferred. Don't want something that will colour my tone completely like a SansAmp, still want my sound to come through as it is, just plus those upper harmonics. Any suggestions?

ok, now that I'm finally using both cabs (got a speakon cable I was missing) pedals sounds pretty much fine. Other things that helped were cutting Bright and stopping to use the unit's Compressor after my distortions and just continue to use a compressor before my distortions as before: problem solved I've also gone from having to cut mids at around 200-250Hz with 1 cab, to boosting them at around 2KHz with both cabs. Boosting mids, now there's something I'm not used to...

Got a reply apologising and explaining the mistake. They've put a disclaimer on the bottom of the 110 and 112 pages. Apparently the large Classic cabs say China correctly, they screwed up with copy pasting from the Neo cabs to the small ones.

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1341321819' post='1716972'] Maybe put a tube prepedal in front of the amp... a bit annoying I know. [/quote] Yeah thought of it... Tried the SansAmp for simulation and doesn't really go nicely, I always find it cuts some essential frequencies from my basses (especially the fretless)... Wouldn't have a problem trying the ValveDrive and having it always on with a very mild setting but the 12V thing is annoying, already using a separate PSA for the Line 6 M5, that would be a third one, 3 PSA's for a Pedaltrain Mini is starting to get a bit OTT...

How's everyone getting on using the Reidmar with their effects? I find my distortions sound harsher with it than they did with my previous amp which had a tube preamp, they sound not so pleasant and organic with the Reidmar and I'm not being able to get around it :/ I've been using a T-Rex Bass Juice since it came out and a Red Ripper for a few months, they went great with the 350x but not enjoying them so much now... Don't tell me I'll have to start a new search for distortions all over again

To be honest, this p*ssed me off so much I contacted them about it, let's see if they reply.

If you mean the right column, I clicked on the certificate and see nothing about China in it...? EDIT: for some reason Chrome wasn't showing the 2nd page. Downloaded it and yeah it says that. Explains the low price then... I'd say it's probably even illegal to say what they say on the cab... The certificate doesn't even say that parts are made in Sweden and then sent to China for assembly, it pretty much says designed in Sweden, assembled in China (which I guess implies made) and then sent back to Sweden for testing. Very dodgy then to write "made ENTIRELY in Sweden", I don't think "designed" and "made" are the same thing (and I'm a designer so I should know!)...

[quote name='thodrik' timestamp='1341266428' post='1716261'] I'm pretty sure that the ClassicLine cabs are made in China as well. That doesn't make them any less good though. [/quote] They're made in Sweden, this is from the web but mine say the same thing.

[quote name='heminder' timestamp='1341159422' post='1714486'] Been thinking of getting one of these for a while. Its specs tick all the right boxes, but I'm somewhat put off with the manufacturing being done by a third party in China - there's always a human cost for stuff made 'cost-effectively' over there. I may get a Tecamp Puma instead for that reason alone. [/quote] True, if you're happy paying twice as much, I sometimes am too but not at this moment Well the cabs are made in Sweden if it helps...

[quote name='surfinbernard' timestamp='1341131704' post='1714022'] Hey 1976Fenderhead, I just got the Reidmar.. Yes to the power input 'giving' a little bit, in fact it made a little snapping sound when I first plugged in the kettle lead and yes it is slightly 'wiggly'. No though to the one light being dimmer, they both appear about the same brightness. I toyed with the idea of taking it back to the shop (I bought local) because of the wiggly lead but perhaps it's like that on all the units. The amp is great though eh? I tried a lot of amps including ones with much higher supposed power ratings (including the ABM III at apparently 1000watts) and it was not only much louder but the sound quality and tone is way better than even much more expensive amps I tried. How are you gettin on with yours? [/quote] Yeah I thought about taking it back too but thought they'd probably all be like that, which it seems they may be so screw it... The dim light is very noticeable with daylight but barely noticeable at night. I AB'd it in the shop with a Little Mark III and a TH500 and this one was much louder and punchier. Also AB'd it with my big SWR 350x and was louder too. I'm only using 1 cab at the moment because I need to buy another Speakon. First of all, let me say that I plugged the 350x to that one cab and it sounded exactly the same to my ears as it used to sound through my SWR Triad. So that's very impressive, that this tiny light cab doesn't make that amp sound crappy. I tried the Reidmar with Character on and off and initially left it off as I found it hard to get a focused sound with it on. However with it off, the sound is always a bit too nasal to my ears (probably used to 10 years of SWR). Anyway, then AB'd it with the 350x and found when playing on my own, I preferred the sound of the 350x: surprisingly, the valve preamp DOES make a difference, those upper harmonics are there and make it sound very warm and natural, the Reidmar lacks that. However, when playing to some recordings to simulate playing with a band to see how it will cut, the Reidmar blew the SWR away at the same volume, even with Compressor off. Then I fiddled a bit more and got a sound with Character knob on I'm really digging and I'm sure I prefer this to the 350x despite no valve-ness... Now I'm playing around with the Compressor to try to figure out whether I can sell my MXR one...

So I got it finally, happy with it and the cabs, but there's 2 things that worry me a bit reliability-wise: - the light in the Character button is significantly dimmer than the the light in the Filter button - the plastic socket the power lead plugs to gives a bit when I unplug the lead or pull it out slightly, it comes out a couple of mm on the plug side (the Power On switch side seems to be more solidly attached)... worried it will break free from the unit at some point! Anyone else has these same 'quirks' with their units?

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1340965410' post='1712081'] My problem with markbass is they go loud enough but not in a way I can like. At low volume they are great. Before you give up on that combo make sure you understand how the filters work as they are key. Zero the main eq dials to 12 and then use the filters from 9-3 o clock and see if that works. My other prob is the cabs are less convincing but a lot of SWR users go markbass. [/quote] I've been using SWR for 10 years and did like MarkBass (heads only). Really liked the filters, definitely set those first as they define the character of the head, so you can get 'your' character, then EQ. My only problems with them were I'm not a fan of Low Mid / High Mid EQ knobs (prefer 1 parametric band) and I couldn't get a focused sound on the lower frets of the E string, too boomy and undefined, and if I set the sound for it to be more defined, the higher notes would lack bottom. Maybe I'd learn to deal with this, but trying on the shop (1 cab only, 210 usually) that's the impression I got: undefined bottom and couldn't fix it. I prefer the Markbass tone to SWR as I think after 10 years I just got bored and want something new, but no such bottom problems with my 350x... I imagine with a B string the LM III would be awful.