cLepto-bass

Great insight, thanks a lot.

And cheers for your input dood, I will bare that all in mind,

Damn, forgot to say... needs to be 5 String but with high C. Do they sell that option or a 6 string set?

Cheers, I was eyeing up the Hi Beams. May take the plunge.

Hi all,

I suppose it depends on how you define it but I am after advice on super bright tonality strings. I am not sure how to describe it but I want super twangy, crisp, buzzy, clicky, strings. I want strings that really bring out all the fret buzz and fingering nuances if possible. 

Currently use the D'Addario  Pro Steels but they don't seem to stay bright for too long so does anyone have a recommendation?

Cheers.

What a beaut!

Cheers for all the input.

The original question was less about mA specifications and more in reference to the fact that on the Cioks site it recommends not using a spliter cable from one output to power a combination of a digital and analog pedal. The TU2 would have to be paired (daisy chained) along side a Styrmon Timeline, therefore I just wanted to know if this would or would not be suitable.

Thoughts?

In my apparent never ending quest for a suitable power supply for my board, I now have a hopefully straight forward question regarding the trusty Boss TU2. Basically is it a digital or analog pedal?

This probably a really daft question but I can't seem to find a confirmed answer.

[quote name='CameronJ' timestamp='1507742206' post='3387668']
My first suggestion would be a Strymon Ojai, which would require a little bit of foot-raising on a Nano/Metro board, however Strymon are soon to release the Ojai R30 which has a more flexible outputs (two of which are switchable 9/12/18v) AND it's slightly shallower in depth so will fit under a Nano or Metro without any modification. Each of its outputs provides up to 500mA of isolated power each. Running the switchable outlets at 12/18v will lower the max current for those individual outputs but still delivers a jot of juice. I power my entire main board off of a single Ojai with some judicious daisy chaining and absolutely love it. Should work incredibly since you're going down the route of several modular boards, as the Ojai supppies can be chained meaning you only need one mains cable running to the wall. 100% worth the money IMO.

Check the R30 out:
[url="http://www.strymon.net/products/ojai-r30/"]http://www.strymon.n...ducts/ojai-r30/[/url]
[/quote]

This looks interesting, but again because of the direction that the cables will come out of the side of the pedal there may not be enough space in the 90mm slot under the board. I would need to measure how long the non bendy part of the cables are.

[quote name='Al Krow' timestamp='1507743010' post='3387679']
Maybe I'm being a bit thick here, but can't you simply turn the power pedal around so the outputs are in the right direction? I'm a bit confused as to why the Ojai works and the DC8 /10 won't given that they all seem to have the power outputs coming out one side?
[/quote]

I am referring to the direction from which the output cables come form the power unit. The orientation of the Ojai in relation to the output direction all 'works' with regards to the available slot pace under the board. Neither the DC8 or DC10 have the same orientation. Take a look at the measurements on the websites.

[quote name='Al Krow' timestamp='1507741858' post='3387665']
In which case I had better sell you my DC8 and get that DC10 I've been thinking about getting for a while...
[/quote]

Same deal with the DC8 - all the outputs come out in the [i]wrong [/i]direction to be able to be fit under the Nano board.

Any other input before I resign myself to the Ojai?

[quote name='Al Krow' timestamp='1507741030' post='3387655']
Ciocks DC10 sounds like a potentially serious contender then? Worth checking out. Not cheap, but it will look after your pedals.
[/quote]

To my understanding, the DC10 will be too big to fit under the Nano board. Yes, slot under the board is approx 90mm and the DC10 is slightly smaller at 88mm but then there would be no room to attached the power cables into the outputs.

I could be wrong.

Massive thanks for the information so far.

I probably should just confirm that I am hoping just to run one power supply for the time being with one eye to future development

[s]Yes, I was hoping to go for the DC5 but for some reason I seem to think that it might not be small enough to fit of the new shape Nano. Am I wrong about that?[/s]


EDIT

Ignore that last part, what I should have said was that the DC5 was originally discounted because of what I assumed to be a lack of correct mA outputs for my pedals.

Right then, I was wondering if you kind people of the bass underworld might be able to help me out with what on the surface is a straight forward query but in reality is causing me some bother.

I am in the market for a decent isolated (likely expensive) power supply. However, there are some specifications with this request.

Firstly, I have recently gone down the route of a more modular Pedaltrain arrangement using 2 (or more) Nano's, therefore stipulation 1 is that it needs to fit under the new shape Nano board. In other words, it needs to be small. I am happy to raise the rubber feet of the board to accommodate a little extra height but the reality is that width and length need to be small.

Next, I have a few mid - high current draw pedals (Timeline, POG2, BlueSky, Super Pulsar), therefore the power supply needs to meet these requirements (I am only really after a one plug option at this time).

So after lots of online searching, one by one I have had to remove nearly all options leaving me with just the Strymon Ojai as a candidate.

Before I take the plunge and buy one brand new, I was just wondering if I am missing anything really simple and overlooked something that could be a game changer.

Any help on this would be great.

Thanks to all.

I opted for the EHX Super Pulsar. It's amazing. The only termolo one person would ever need. With the exception of probably the Chase it's as fully loaded as the humble termolo could get. Only downside is large footprint.

Second the Planet Waves kit. Easy to construct and really sturdy.

Funny, I bought the BlueSky as a replacement for my Eterna (blue version) only to be reminded that is absolutely quality so decided to keep it and move the Strymon on.

Have a bump for a quality item.

Assuming you are willing/able to send, any idea of a rough price of postage?

Cheers

[quote name='Norris' timestamp='1504012564' post='3362101']
As a temporary measure, try wrapping a strip of paper around the E string where it sits in the nut so it is nice and snug. if that improves it you know to get a new nut
[/quote]

Thanks for the advice. Well take care of that.

In the meantime, here is the current state of affairs.




Even if its not the nut that is causing the issue, its about time that I saw to sorting this out.

Thanks again all

Excellent, thanks EBS_freak. I shall get the nut sorted ASAP and see how that works out.

Wow, this is all great advice so thank you very much.

I will have to check out some of these recommendations later this evening but off the top of my head I was suspecting that the nut might have something to do with it. I have never actually got around to replacing the nut as I kind of assumed (perhaps erroneously) that the zero fret would negate the need for addressing the nut. However, I am happy to be be wrong on this.

So as a general suggestion, is it wise to get the nut sorted out before doing anything else more drastic?

Whilst I am at it, does anyone happen to know which string brands offer a complete 5 string set with the high C option? Up to now I have been mix 'n' matching a standard D'Addario 4 string set with an extra string for the C?

Thanks again all.

Hi everyone,

I was just wondering if anyone might be able to provide me with any thoughts on an issue that I have been experiencing with my bass.

The bass in question is one of the older (more pretty) Sandberg JM California 5 strings. Specifically, I have it tuned in the high C format (e.g. E-A-D-G-C)

All things considered, I absolutely bloody love this bass and see no reason why I would ever move it on. However, I have long noticed that the low E seems to be fractionally, albeit noticeably, quieter when compared to the other strings. The thing is that its quiet hard to actually describe exactly what I mean as its not a simple case of the overall volume that drops, but more that bell like presence and attack is slightly muted on the E string when compared to the others. I have tried various strings over the months but the issue is still present.

In the past this has not really concerned me due to my playing style but I have recently started a new project that will require more use of the E string and I really want to be confident that it can offer the thunderous low notes that I am hearing in my head.

I was just wondering if anyone has any similar experience or able to offer any advice? For example, would a compression pedal help in this?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Update bump, just the Volume pedal left now.

Bump for newly added pedal sales.

As promised...

Photos now added to main ad.

Completely forgot that I still had this pedal to sell.

Still for sale.

Price drop to £90