ossyrocks

Here's the schematic. There's a .047 600v cap to ground off the Polarity switch (look bottom right of the schematic), this needs to be removed. Simply clipping it off is good enough. Then you need to make sure that the LIVE goes straight to the fuses, on to the mains switch, and on to the mains transformer. You can hang the wires off a single lug of the switch, just using it like a tag strip. The neutral needs to go straight to the mains transformer too and can be also hung off another single lug of the switch. Wired correctly, the switch will have no function at all except to be a convenient placeholder for the wiring, and it won't matter what position the switch is in, as it will not function as a switch. A simple visual inspection will confirm if this has been done, and if not, it's a ten minute job for anyone who knows what they are doing.

Rob

Ok, so the polarity switch on the front of vintage Ampegs IS the equivalent of Fenders ground switch, so if there's a cap in there, that's what it will be connected to. I'm back home now, so will have a look for a schematic.

Rob

I wouldn’t hesitate to buy it over this one minor thing. It’s very straightforward to put right 

Just now, fretmeister said:

 

 

I doubt you'd get away with that in a large wedding venue anymore.

You’re probably right. But 96db is very low, the punters themselves could trip that.

You could bypass the whole thing though. Only the sockets on stage will be wired to the meter. In the past we’ve run long mains leads from other sockets up to the stage and powered everything from those. The meter can do what it likes then and the power will stay on. Just don’t let the Jobsworth see you doing it.

13 minutes ago, funkyjazz said:

Acatually since I read in the description:
"This amp was recently serviced and received new power tubes, preamp tubes, new filtercaps, 3-prong cord and any caps/resistors that were out of specs."

There is a fair chance that the death cap has been removed already, isn't it?

Perhaps, but it’s worth checking. Just look at the ground switch, the cap will be visible if present. Often the ground switch is left there, with the cap removed, and the mains leads are hung off the lugs as it’s convenient to use it for this purpose. Post a pic here when you have it in hand.

1 minute ago, funkyjazz said:

and I guess the death cap should be removed by a technician since it is dangerous to do by inexperienced folk like me?

If you are at all uncertain how to do it, then yes, get it done by a tech.

However, I did buy an amp last year, which had purportedly been serviced by a tech. He had replaced the mains lead with a three prong, but he’d wired it as original, keeping the ground switch and death cap. I found this quite amazing really. But I found this before ever even switching it on, and was able to wire it correctly myself.

I’ve run vintage USA amps in the UK on a transformer like the one from TAD for 30 years without issues. Just get that one.

More importantly, you need to make sure the amp has a modern grounded “three prong” US plug on it, wired correctly, and the death cap removed. This bit is important.

After that, if the electrolytic capacitors are original, consider changing those at the earliest opportunity. They have a finite lifespan and could fail at any time.

Rob

Just now, lownote said:

Not sure if you're looking for rounds or flats, but I adore La Bella RX nickel rounds, from Bass Direct. No one's heard of them but I find their sound and tension perfect. 

I’ll check those, I’m completely open minded at the moment as I basically have zero experience.

Cheers

3 minutes ago, wateroftyne said:

I don’t think it’s a bubble - it’s been a steady rise at least for the last couple of decades while I’ve been involved.

It did crash after 2008 to an extent. I remember looking at an early 60’s 335 at a show in about 2010. It was priced at £12k, but only a few years before it would have been double that. A lot of people were holding guitars which were worth a lot less than they had in them. I don’t think the 335 market has ever recovered to where it was, even today. But in the last couple of years, prices have been shooting up again, and I just wonder where they might go.

21 minutes ago, shoulderpet said:

Lovely, I bet that sounds divine, unfortunately the price of vintage basses has always stopped me from owning one but maybe one day

Yes, prices are nuts. I suppose I’m fortunate enough to have been buying and selling vintage guitar equipment for long enough to benefit from the market. Much of the gear I have was bought for much cheaper years ago, so I’m able to sell the odd piece to fund other pieces, much like the housing market, which I benefited from, but in which my kids are fairly screwed. 
 

I’m selling a few bits and pieces at profit to fund this bass, so the hit is softened to a large degree.

The dilemma everyone has who is sitting on gear is when to sell, as prices are still rising, but will the bubble burst? 
 

Rob

6 minutes ago, BassAdder27 said:

I found a better balance between the G and D strings compared to the A and E using 45-100 

Duly noted. Cheers

@BassAdder27 Is there any particular brand you think would work best? Think classic soul, motown, funk and blues. My local shop has two set packs of Ernie Ball Super Slinky 45-100's for £39.50, but Gary always knocks a bit off for me.

1 minute ago, BassAdder27 said:

I changed mine to 45-100 strings which is far better than 45-105 in my opinion on the PBass 

Only adjustment needed was truss rod ( slight tweek ) 

Yes, I was using 40-100 on the Squire, but these are quite a bit heavier. I’ll consider a lighter gauge when I come to change them, which will probably be soon.

I suppose it’s my soft noob fingers, I’ll just have to keep practicing and harden them up! 

I haven't put this down all day! Jammin James Jamerson licks.

It has heavier strings than I'm used to, but it still plays really well. However, I now have a blister on my left hand index finger from playing so much.

Can I claim for industrial injury?

45 minutes ago, Bigguy2017 said:

Wow, that's a desert island bass - I could die happy with such perfection...

I see you're in Edinburgh. There's a Precision listed on ebay, with pretty poor pictures, which claims to be a 1970. It looks ok at first glance, but I think you could provide a great service by going to check it out. I thought long and hard about it, but I couldn't justify a full day round trip to see a bass without knowing more. He's open to offers too. Just a thought.

Rob

7 minutes ago, Reggaebass said:

Lovely ☝️

Thanks for all your advice on Precisions @Reggaebass. It really helped a lot.

9 minutes ago, wateroftyne said:

 

@ossyrocks - step away from the long adjustment screw. It's 100% original.. that's how they were 🙂

Yes Sir. Whouda thunk it? It doesn't get in the way either. Thanks for the info.

Well, I'm having quite the week. 

This beauty arrived by UPS this morning, well packed, and undamaged.

Straight out of the case it plays really well, only a little intonation required on the G string, which I'll get done in due course, and fix that long adjustment screw too which appears to be the only non-original part on the bass.

It's light, only 8 1/2 lbs, feels great on a strap, and balances well.

The neck is sublime, a well rounded deep C profile, and instantly feels comfortable and easier to play than the Squire P-Bass I've been playing for the last couple of months. I've not had chance to try it through my new Markbass rig yet as Mrs Rocks is working from home. I'm supposed to be working too, but a little distraction never hurt anyone did it?

I'm chuffed to bits!

Cheers,

Rob

25 minutes ago, lownote said:

If you like your playing oomphy and low, my EQ on a similar rig that I happened on by accident is, in 'clock positions:  Bass 11.30; Low mids 10.30; High mids 9; Treble 8.30  VLE 8; VFF 10.30.. FYI, YMMV 

I’ll give that a try.

My target tone is Pino Palladino, John Mayer Trio. It can’t be that hard, right? 😳

I dunno, look at from my perspective, I’ve been playing bass for two months, and if people can put out records like that, with bass lines like that, then I have a very bright future ahead of me! 

Just now, skidder652003 said:

That will sound epic, well done!

Cheers Skidder, it will only sound epic once I can actually play “epic”, but I appreciate your optimism and support.

Hi Chaps,

Following on from my post in Introductions, and asking about lightweight setups. Today an amp popped up on Facebook Marketplace only 10 minutes away from me in Lancaster.

I had been looking at buying a new Markbass CMD 121P, but this was too good to resist. It's been gigged quite a bit, the cab was covered in white cat hair 😂, and it appears the cat liked to exercise it's claws in the cab covering. But it sounded great, works fine, and the price was right. A bit of de-hairing, trimming the plucks and a bit of cleaning and it came together nicely.

I now have my first rig!

Tomorrow, before noon, my first decent bass (vintage Precision) is arriving too! It feels like Christmas!

I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has a similar setup, amp settings etc, as I'm going to have to get used to dialing this in.

Cheers,

Rob

On 10/11/2021 at 17:27, SuperSeagull said:

Interesting. Have just bought (from here) a Rootmaster 500 and am planning to sell off my MB cmd12p and 121ny cab and replace with ideally one cab that covers the small enough to lug about easily but capable enough of running loud bases. I too would prefer a 4ohm option from that one cab.

Be sure to let me know if you list your MB rig. 👍

25 minutes ago, police squad said:

welcome Rob. I have a '73 p bass. Owned it for nearly 32 years. Best sounding P bass I've ever had.

Ampwise, defintaley look at the Ashdown RM stuff. They do loud combos and heads and lightweight cabs.

Not too expensive either, there's a lot of love for the RM stuff onhere

I am seeing a lot of love for Ashdown stuff here, a LOT. There are a lot of comments regarding their after sales service too, all good I might add. This is the thing that has me concerned about the Markbass CMD121P I kind of had my heart set on. Whilst everyone seems to agree they sound great, if something goes wrong, then you appear to be a little cast adrift, with only one place in the UK able to repair them.

Looking online at Ashdown stuff, the Ashdown RM 500-EVO II Lightweight 500w Head can be had for £468.00, and the Ashdown RM-112T-EVO II, Super Lightweight Bass Cabinet for £269.00.

This setup is very slightly cheaper than the Markbass combo I was looking at. How do you think the Ashdown rig above would compare to the Markbass CMD121P?

10 minutes ago, SuperSeagull said:

Yes. Also have the NY121. Superb set up and the combo easily loud enough on it’s own in most situations I have found myself. I’m in the process of switching to Ashdown in search of something a little warmer sounding. 

Thanks for that. From what I’m reading, the Markbass combo is quite a warm sounding amp. That’s what I’m looking for. In what ways does it not do what you’re looking for?