Chienmortbb

Good news. I would not go down the step down transformer. If you think of the power of that amp….

It is not worth buying the PF500 second hand as the first 7 or 8 iterations of the printed circuit boards had major design issues. The PF800 and PF350 seem to have avoided them.

Go easy on the OP guys, he said he is looking for information, not wanting a near bashing. Also regarding IEMs, they are great but you have to get buy in from the rest of the band as it will probably cost a lot in total. With my lot of dinosaurs, it’s a non-starter. Once the OP give a full explanation we can try to help.

If something is unique and offers something others do not, some people will buy them and there is nothing wrong with that. The Mesa Amps that @agedhorse designs are fully featured, arguably better featured than any others. I would love to try one but I cannot justify the expense. As a weekend warrior, it would take a year to earn enough to pay for one. I could afford one, who needs a funeral fund anyway? However I will not. As a big RHCP fan I stupidly thought that I needed a GK rig. I flipped in in less than a month as I could not get on with it. Everyone’s opinion is valid but if someone none is happy to pay for a Mesa, so be it. Finally, it is rare for a manufacturer's representative to post on BC and @agedhorse often adds wisdom and clarity to the discussion about amplification, with years of experience to back it up. I am glad he is willing to post on here.

Apologies for the lack of pictures still but I only have brief periods to look at it. The neck was far too straight so I got the capo, feeler gauges and Allen key ( hex wrench). Tomyrelief (sic) the truss ros adjusted easily. I quickly made the adjustments to set the 0.35mm clearance at the top of tb3 frets at the 7th fret. In fact I always check both the 7th and 8th frets. Next was to adjust the action/ string height. FAIL. I now have to look up how to adjust the height of the individual bridge pieces. More soon

A better explanation than I could have managed.

Oh dear. My finger slipped and I accident my ordered the G4M…, I did not want SWMBO to know so I did click and collect from a local post office. I will do a review/NBD with pictures in a day or two but i ritual thoughts. It looks almost ad good as it does in the pictures. The finish is good on the body with just a couple of tiny blemishes that measure less than 1mm across. The neck joint is a good fit, no gaps although the lower part of the body at the neck joint is not perfect. The neck is a lighter shade than I expected but hey. lt looks like there is no finish on the neck but it is a colourless silk finish and is much nicer than a traditional gloss lacquer. There are no sharp feet ends although they look like they could do with a polish. A quick look seems to suggest there are no really high frets. It is a precision, so the neck is 42mm wide, I am used to 38mm on my Fender Aerodyne, Sire M2 and Peavey Milestone 4. At first look I think the string spacing is the same as my other basses , the extra width allows more margin at the edge, so that the strings will not go off the edge of the fingerboard when playing enthusiastically. There is very little relief on the neck, I will sort that out tomorrow. To be fair both the Fender and the Sire need the relief adjusting. String height is too high but all my basses were like that when I got them. The pickups are way below the strings and I hope that it’s why the volume is so low. Sorting out the relief and then the string height should take care of that. One of the areas I hate in most basses are the machine heads. The Grnder ones on My Aerodyne were far from ideal and were replaced with Goto Res-O-Lites. The Sire had awful machine heads, they did keep in tune but there was som much backlash, that it was hard to tune initially. They were replaced with Hipshots. The initial impression on the G4M is quite good. Little backlash although the tension on the four is not consistent. That can usually be adjusted. The Low E is slightly wonky but it can be rectified easily, It is quite flat, stated as 15” radius. My Aerodyne is 7.5” but it seemed OK. The nut is not plastic but it works so I won’t touch that. As with most budget basses, the strings are not to my liking. They are extremely light gauge strings, maybe because it is described as rock/metal bass. There seemed to be a lacking in low end but the E string is only 90 thou so I am not surprised. If the pickup is lacking once all those things are rectified, A Warman or Tonerider will not cost the earth. I will do an NBD/Review based on these notes but I will expand.

JBL used to make a powered sub that would take a feed from an amplifier as well as from a mixer. Look for JBL EON Powersub G2. Whether one of those would be OK I am not sure. There is a filter inside for the subwoofer that ensures that it does not get a full range signal. JBL EON Powersub G2

Correct. Zoom dropped a clanger there. Don't get me wrong its a great pedal, especially with a version of your Free/Bad Co patch on it (stolen from the B1 Four). Most of the stock patches are usable unlike the B1 Four.

The Orchid Classic DI does both obs, DI and split to local amp.

The app allows you to edit patches and adjust parameters of individual effects.

There is a problem with Android. There are multiple manufacturers and the OS is controlled by another company (Google). So its like the wild west in terms of policing Android distribution. With iOS it is one stop manufacturer and OS provider so much less support needed. The platform is stable and reliable. I am not saying Apple are perfect but most of the Pro Audio software and DAWs are on Apple devices as they have prioritised audio visual performance. I have an Lenovo Android tablet which takes over 1 second to respond. That makes it unusable. Now where I will criticise Zoom is that the old PC editing software does not work on the B2 Four. On the plus side the effects are quieter and there are some really useful patches out of the box.

Heathen!

I am the same, do I need another bass or more importantly how many more basses do I need?

Although we left the stupidly left the EU in 2019, I believe that the UK is still part of Europe.

There are several online look up tools and I have just checked and found that my dating was wrong. Mine is 2004-2005 model. This is probably the best Fender Dating

Not ideal but put volume on the speakers at max and take the monitor out faders down to your desired level Or just take off all the knobs on the monitor speakers.

If you look at my avatar, you will see my Fender Aerodyne. It is one of the first ones made in 2003. I love this bass. it just looks beautiful. I have often thought about buying the P version. It is in the image below alongside another bass that I sold. I love the clean lines, no pickguard, just the front mounted jack socket and three knobs. I have made two mods, the machine heads wree changed for Goton Res-o-LItes and the pickuos were changed to a pair of Di Marzios. I am not so keen on the later models, especially the ones with the Jazz type metal control plate. So browsing on G4M as you do, I found this: Apart from the colour of the fingerboard, I love the look. Is it worth a £150 punt?

This is a basic principle.

That is an LPF by any other name. So well placed it will cut the HF noise. What cable did I use? I suspect it was Tricone 2, that has 95% screening from memory. Spirit has close to 100% but I have never had any issues with Tricone2. Most of my cables are made using it.

You need better cables then Phil. In saying that, it may be the output impedance of the Line 6 being much lower than a passive bass?

Have you met my band? The singer was convinced we had a faulty cable causing feedback once!

Thanks to everyone that has replied. Regarding mic/speaker placement, almost every gig I tell the band that they have the monitors in the wrong place, to cardioid and two hyper-cardioid mics. Try to tell them that the cardioid pattern is not flat but in fact more like and apple and the smoke starts coming out of their ears.

I am actually subscribed to that channel but somehow missed that video. I think the centre fill speaker is meant to help although the height, on top of the subs, does not get through to the middle. However, as he says do the best you can and don't fret.