geilerbass

If loosening the truss rod doesn't work, it might need a fret-stoning - particularly if you're only getting buzz on one note on one string. Hopefully you don't have a warped neck - though I'm sure you'd be getting more buzzing if this was the case.

I'm sure it won't be a problem - though it's amazing how different flats can feel to rounds. If you've been rehearsing with them for a while and been getting on with them fine, it shouldn't make too much of a difference live. Enjoy the slick, slippery fun of playing flatwounds live!

[quote name='dood' post='201833' date='May 18 2008, 11:18 PM']The BBC ran a few nights of documentaries, including this Arena episode, a US documentary called 'The Decline Of Western Civilisation, Part 2' directed by Penelope Spheeris (not entirely sure what Part 1 was!! lol) and, Guns n' Roses - Live at the Ritz.. one of their best performances.. when they were young and still 'hungry for success'!! - I seem to recall there was an Ozzy Ozbourne concert and something to do with Maiden as well.[/quote] Part 1 was called the Punk Years and dealt with the US punk scene (bands such as the Ramones). I haven't seen it, but it's supposed to be pretty decent. Part 2 is considerably more well known and a classic, must-see documentary. If only for the sight of WASP's Chris Holmes pouring vodka on himself, while floating around on a air-bed in his mum's swimming pool.

I've never found the sweat to make things more difficult, though I've only played live with flats a few times. I guess if you sweat a lot, it could be a problem, though I would have thought it would be the same with roundwounds. Are you playing fretless? If so that could be more of an issue, since you have to be precise with your intonation, though on a fretted instrument, I can't think it'll be too much of a problem.

I tried a Corvette out. It was a typically quality Warwick instrument - felt very solid to play and had a potent sound - though didn't really blow me away. I think it was going for about £800ish, which is pretty good value for the calibre of the bass. On a very pedantic note, it really didn't stand up to the older Warwicks of that price range - someone else mentioned it lacking the 'growl' which I kind of agree with.

Thanks for all the advice! Again, I know people find this subject a real bore - I've read through numerous threads about ohmage and power, both here and on talkbass, but I've not really been able to get my head around it. It seems the general advice is: don't push your amp too far and listen out for distortion. I'm pretty sure I've run my rig with both gain and volume on about half and had plenty of volume with no distortion. I don't really have room for another cab at home, so I think I'll stick with this set up until I notice that it becomes a problem. Then you might be seeing an Eden D210T appearing in the classifieds here...

Yes, that was the first place I looked, though there's nothing there to give me a conclusive answer. Am I right in thinking that this is not an exact science and therefore, I'm going to have to rely on luck to an extent? I really doubt that if I were to get a new cab, I'd have the opportunity to try it out with my amp. Based on the Wiki it looks as though I would need a cab that takes 500W RMS at 4 ohms. I haven't seen any cabs at this kind of rating from any of the main manufacturers, so that's why I was enquiring as to whether I'd likely get problems with a lower or higher rated cab.

I've searched around on here and elsewhere for information regarding amp/cab power ratings, ohmage and their associated compatibility and have read a great deal on the subject, but haven't been able to figure out the answer to my specific questions. I have a 350W RMS (700W peak) Trace Elliot AH350SMX head, with the 350W rated at 4 ohms (it's minimum impedance). Currently I run it through a David Eden D210T, which has an impedance of 4 ohms and is rated at 250W RMS. So far, I've never had to put the amp particularly loud, since I've always played small venues and the rig has almost exclusively been for on-stage sound only, so the sound has been fine. However, it looks as though I could be playing some bigger venues in the future, with a requirement for more onstage sound and so I have three questions. 1) Am I likely to kill my Eden cab if I have to push the output up on my head, to achieve louder volumes? Obviously there will come a point where it is driving the cab with more than 250W RMS and will definitely peak higher than that. 2) If I were to get a replacement cab (say a 4x10) what is a sensible power rating to go for? 3) Most decent cabs that I see available (Mark Bass and Eden for example) seem to be rated at 800W. I've read that pushing a lower rated amp to it's limits when driving a much higher rated cab can cause damage to head and/or cab. Is this true? And if so, would this likely be a problem for me were I to keep my head and get a cab rated 800W at 4 ohms? I know there are so many threads/queries regarding power ratings, so apologies in advance, but despite much searching I can't find any conclusive solution to my problem. Many thanks in advance.

The Gallery in London charge £70 - I got my old Bass Collection done there a couple of years ago and Martin did an amazing job (as usual). I'm not sure how that compares to other places though.

[quote name='Jobiebass' post='197925' date='May 13 2008, 01:08 PM']Id prefer flats cause I love the feel of them, apart from Rotoflats. My Jazz initially came with some awesome flats, mint green ends with a gold ball, other side didnt have a colour. If I knew what they were id get some of those for my P.[/quote] I found Rotosound flats to be pretty shoddy too - I may have just got a set from a bad batch, but they sounded crap and felt really horrible to play. Put me off Rotosound for life!

I'd recommend some La Bella Deep Talkin' flats, though I also found Elites flatwounds to be pretty decent.

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='196619' date='May 11 2008, 06:24 PM']TBH of the 'off-the-shelf' models the Dolphin and Infinity (excepting the Stryker & Buzzard which are hardly 'off the shelf' models) are the most expensive I believe. You are right though that the Thumb & Stage II follow these up.[/quote] I think the NT Vampyre is up with the Dolphin and Infinity in terms of price - or am I getting confused here...

[quote name='Viajero' post='196209' date='May 10 2008, 08:13 PM']What sparked this off, by the way, is playing a thru-neck fretless Thumb 5 from the mid-90s. Blew me away, but I couldn't afford the price tag. I saw some prices on new gear, and wondered what I might be missing out on in the cheaper models.[/quote] Be aware that the newer top-end Warwicks, while amazing instruments, lack the awe value that late 90's and older models had. You may try some of the new ones and think they're even better, but I know for a lot of people the newer basses don't quite match the older models and this is significant when you're spending up to and above £2k. If you try some newer ones and find a particular model that you like, but aren't quite as blown away as you were by the Thumb you tried, it would be well worth trying to track down an older model second hand, as I think you'd get better value and be more satisfied with your purchase.

My best live sound (that I've been able to hear) has been my current, and pretty much only live set-up: Trace Elliott AH350SMX into a David Eden D210T. Tight, fat and with plenty of mid and top to keep the bass audible amongst the terrible racket that the guitarists and drummer make. Looks like we may be playing some bigger gigs in the not too distant future and I'm concerned that my poor Eden won't be able to take the pounding, so I'm thinking (regretably) about maybe trading it in for something more potent.

It sounds as though most people on here just love playing full stop - that's very encouraging. I have to admit that I'm of the same thinking. I'm very particular when it comes to listening to music for enjoyment but I've found, rather bizarrely, that I'm happy playing pretty much anything when it comes to playing in a band. I've been in a few bands in my time, playing quite a lot of different things, much of which I have had little interest in listening to and yet have got great enjoyment out of playing. Right now, I feel I'm in a good position in that the three bands I'm in all play music that is both amazingly satisfying to play and great to listen to. So in that respect, I have managed to retain my musical integrity. That said, if the call came to be Girls Aloud's touring bass player, I'd sell out in second...

[quote name='LukeFRC' post='193110' date='May 6 2008, 05:24 PM']yeah, its just the feel of the thing. Having said that I was fortuanate to pick up a very good P bass so i think they are both in similar leauges. but both can do different things which is what is important for me. With the neck pup on full and the bass preamp up full the warwick doesnt get close to the very low lows that the P can do, but it you can actually hear the top end and it has better definition in the mids. I really cannot believe Warwickhunt was trying to sell this bass on the forum at the price he was for 6 months and no-one took it. your loss, my gain! I now have a very german set up, Streamer into Hughes ad kettner Q600 into Tech Soundsystems CT-200 2x12. Better than a Mercedes or BMW! Todays discovery is that I can actually play slap bass![/quote] I totally agree about the feel - it's a real intangible thing, as I think I waxed lyrical about in another thread. They're just a joy to play and have such shape and definition to the sound. I can't believe Warwickhunt was unable to sell an SS1 at the price he was offering either - but for some reason, the market is real bad for Warwicks right now.

Great acquisition! Those old Warwicks are where it's at. If one of the first basses you ever tried was an old-school Thumb, then you will no doubt have been yearning for something in the same league.

[quote name='stoo' post='190693' date='May 2 2008, 04:31 PM'][url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ModuleNo=1267&doy=2m5"]http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?Module...267&doy=2m5[/url] There's also a few more options on their site and some others on the [url="http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=retrieveTfg&Ne=4294958147&Nr=AND%28avl%3auk%2csearchDiscon_uk%3aN%29&N=4294965429+4294954259+4294905240+4294895739&binCount=54&selectAttribute=Cable%20Mount#breadCrumb"]RS Electronics site[/url] A couple of minutes and a wee dab of solder and should all work fine.... [/quote] Cool! Thanks. Now I need to find someone with a solder...

[quote name='stoo' post='190550' date='May 2 2008, 02:19 PM']Could you not just get a small patch cable made up with a plug on one end and a socket on t'other? Then fix the transmitter to yer strap or something...??[/quote] That's something I've thought of... but I've no clue as to where to get a patch cable with a socket on one end - they only seem to come as plug to plug. Any ideas?

I've used one of these for several years now and have had no complaints: - [url="http://www.guitarampkeyboard.com/en/airline-bass/70880"]http://www.guitarampkeyboard.com/en/airline-bass/70880[/url] It sounds great and has an amazing reception range - you can literally go out of your house and get half way down the street before it starts to cut out. Make sure you get the right transmitter though - there are two, one designed for side-on jack sockets (like a Warwick, for example) and one for Fender Strat style recessed jacks. I've got the former, which fits my Streamer great, though sadly, won't fit with my new Ibanez, so I'm back wired until I can get a transmitter that fits...