Perhaps said civil servant could channel his existential rage into catching the billionaire tax dodgers, rather than a bloke trying to buy a used box of knobs.
Now that my beloved Fender Bassman 100T is working again, I need to find a cab to properly complement it.
At the moment it's running to a Barefaced Midget. Sonically this is fine, but visually it is a bit odd with the amp being larger than the cab. The flight case helps a bit, but I probably need a bigger cab. A Fender Neo 410 would look good, but after years of Barefaced I don't think I could go back to heavy lifting.
Would a second midget next to the original work sonically (assuming I can find one)? Or am I best off exploring a Two10 or two Two10s or a Four10?
Fender pulled through, fixed the autobias, ribbon cable and even replaced the valves, all free of charge including shipping. So I take it all back!
So Fender UK good,the authorised repair centre less good.
The mini booster is sanded and polished as I wanted the LEDs to reflect under the glass table-top fixing plate I used as a knob.
The ex boss enclosure was also sanded and polished. I have recently discovered that the school I work in has a sand blaster, so I might have a go with that next time.
But here is the latest evolution of my homemade collection.
L-R: Mini Booster, LPB1, Valvecaster, Bazz, BBOD, Woolly Mammoth, Tubescreamer, SHO, Orange Squeezer.
I have a Fender 100T with a broken auto bias and it seems impossible to fix. In theory it's the perfect amp, in reality it's been a massive waste of money and I wouldn't risk buying a Fender amp ever again.
I have an MJT Jazz, a Squier Classic Vibe Precision and a Fender 51RI. I want to set them up differently, one with steel roundwound, one with flatwound and one with nickel roundwound. What would be the most logical combos?
The stripping and polishing process mostly involved swearing.
I did as much as I could with a random orbital sander and 220 grit, then sanded by hand every grit from 320 to 7000. Then I used auto sol aluminium polish combined with a vigorous wrist action developed during my teenage years. Finally I dropped a screwdriver on it from a great height, creating the dent you can see in the middle.
The switch is a soft-click 3pdt so it feels like boss switching without the faff of building a relay. There isn't much margin for error with the switch because the battery cover plate doesn't leave much room for the latching process to complete, but it is possible.
A couple of LEDs I ordered recently are white rather than purple, is this likely to be a problem with the manufacturing/stock or is there some electrical wizardry I am missing?