A.G.E.N.T.E.

5 hours ago, Boodang said:

I wouldn't be without a compressor on my pedal board. But as others have said, you need to find the one that suits you. I use compression as the main means of my tone shaping. 

Best place to start is a tc electronic Spectracomp... cheap s/h, comes with a bunch of toneprints (presets) you can download so you don't have to worry about being able to set one up properly, only one knob so can't go wrong, and later you can edit in the app if you want to experiment with it in more detail. 

Even though I have a spectracomp and find it a very good compressor I think it's more an advanced user tool. One can use the tone prints and get away with it, and never really know what's going on or how to achieve it in another compressor. On the other side it can be overwhelming if you start editing a multi band compressor. I would rather have a cheap, simple but very capable boss lmb3 (in case you're on a tight budget) were you can set ratio and threshold. 

IMO, If you want to focus on the music instead of your dinamics flaws, it can be very helpful. Compression must be understood to be wisely used. You might need to test several settings before finding what works best for you. 

IME, using a isolated power supply is mandatory. My pedalboard runs smoothly except when I add some digital effects using a non isolated psu. I'd try to test removing pedals one by one to see if the noise comes from a particular pedal. 

Non expert opinion but I guess It's hard to evaluate. That could be just a superficial crack on the paint caused by the expansion and contraction of the wood over the years and differences in temperature. I wouldn't bother if everything else is the same. 

If everything else fails, you can always put lighter gauge strings to get a flatter neck as they create less tension. 

17 hours ago, goingdownslow said:

My '90 and '91 Thumb basses are still on their original sockets.

Same here with my 93 and 96 W' s

For a £200 bag you should have no worries in doping your amp from the top of the burj khalifa. 

On 14/11/2021 at 11:08, mybass said:

Barrell Jacks are literally a barrell length that encloses all of the Jack plug. Type in barrell jack to Google and pics will come up.

Commonly used for instruments with active electronics to ‘un switch’ the battery when not in use…..or in instruments where the instrument cable jack plug is inserted on the edge of the instrument. Fender type instruments usually use the ‘normal’ jack.

They are usually seen in active instruments but in order to 'un switch' they must be stereo output Jacks. 

I have never had a problem with mine. I Only use Switchcraf and IME they last. 

I would double check the soldering conections making sure they all have a mechanical contact between wires and poles, not only solder joints. 

I could have some fun with one of those. 

2 hours ago, Frank Blank said:

☝@A.G.E.N.T.E. If you can stretch to this you’ll be laughing ☝

That would be a pretty good deal on a 732... but i´m in Portugal,  and customs would be glad to rip me off. Besides that i would be waiting for months for it to arrive as customs are going crazy right now due to new fees regulation.  Almost half a milion pacages are colecting dust at customs warehouse right now.

2 hours ago, jrixn1 said:

I have an RCF 732-A for sale in the marketplace.

 

As for 10" speakers - for £30 more than the Mackie, I'd take a Yamaha DXR10 mkII every time.  I've been using one as a monitor and our sound engineer always has me cut the low frequencies, as they're otherwise affecting FOH.  This is at wedding venues and theatres.

It seems that a good 10" speaker can handle the job and that´s good news. Thanks for your sugestion, I´ll have a look.

Dear bass fellas and rock n roll murdereres, i´ve been following closely this tread, and i finally decided to go ther FRFR  route. Still i have a few ( a lot to be honest 😁) doubts on wich brand or model to choose . 

I must confess that one thing i never realy loved about the tradicional setup was the fact that a lot of the sound was hitting my knees instead of my ears... except if i were using a full stack  4x10 on top of a 1x15. 

I plan using the frfr cab mostly as a floor monitor, at least at reharsals.

I was trying to reduce my list to the least options possible so your thoughts will be highly apreciated. I added the EV to the lista as a lot of sond guys rave about it been great as floor monitor.

I´m leanig towards the mackie, It has bluetooth, it´s smaller, lighter, as a boader frequency range even though its the only one with 10" speaker.. i`m i missing something here?

Thanks in advance.

I think these are the same as used in Warwick bridges. You can find them at banzai music. 

http://www.banzaimusic.com/warwick-30120-w.html

I guess it might work in most cases but I tried to save some money  in the past and I ended up buying twice. My Boss ES5 didn't work with the generic cable and even though I heard about this issue with boss I tried it anyway. Not a very smart move, I know 😅

Is the truss rod stuck or it moves without any noticeable changes on the neck? 

First option, remove the spring and test if intonation is sopt on. If so, you can just leave it like that or you can try to cut the spring in half and see if it works. Done it myself a few times and worked fine. 

Repositioning the bridge. That will work l but it's a bit annoying to have to make this kind of adjustments.. And drilling new holes. 

Or the easiest one.. As said already.. Get rid of the babicz

I`m using eurosender for the first time and I have a bass on it´s way from Italy to Portugal. let´s see how it goes. well,  i hope! 😅

Update: well done Eurosender, the bass arrived today...and i got a new toy right on time for the weekend 😁

6 hours ago, LeftyJ said:

Here's an interesting read: https://unicornbass.se/site/m-total-neck-recovery/ 

This luthier describes the neck as very poorly and crudely made, with a very old-tech compression truss rod with so much excess glue in the thread that it just gets stuck when turning. 

Outch... I believe Maruszczyk should make something really quickly to avoid sales drop before this tread gets all over the place. I would contact them again sharing this, saying that you know you're not the only case... And let's see what happens. 

Gotoh are very good indeed. Another alternative are hipshots. Just make sure to measure the hole  so you buy the right size. As far as a can remember the Warwick tuners also fitted my Ibanez. I think both are 14mm hole diameter. 

I would be crazy enough to make my own tuning pegs with epoxy paste. 😅

A few things Come to my mind. The breaking angle at the nut. Try to press the string between the post and the nut to see if solves. 

The string winding also can cause some resonance especially when Overlapping. 

Truss rod. If by any means the truss rod is completely loosen it can also vibrate 

Junior is a top player. Love is work with Virgil Donati

I once bought a a few different models. Good quality and variety 

http://rapidonline.com

2 hours ago, itu said:

Very rough estimation is that nickel RWs have flatter response (more middle), and SSs sound a bit like smiley eq curve.

I have this same opinion and tried both strings on different basses