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Andyjr1515

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Everything posted by Andyjr1515

  1. Hi I don't know if any of you saw [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/259471-neck-reduction-proscons/"]Paul S's recent post[/url] enquiring about slimming down the neck of an old favourite of his, a lovely Shergold Marathon. Problem was - and I think we've all had this at one time or another - it wasn't being played because it wasn't a comfortable fit for him. In this case, it is because the neck at the nut is the more 'traditional' 44mm...very wide compared with most of the more modern 4 strings at around at c 38mm. (There is a small irony here, because the 'under-wraps' project I'm working on at the moment has a 44mm neck). I thought it was worth posting the thread because it is a common issue many of us face...mod or sell? Also, it's a way of keeping Paul up to date with the progress. The challenge here was - and you can see the thread:[list] [*]To slim down the existing neck is a one-way trip [*]To do it 'properly' is expensive. Frets out, binding off, slim down, re-fret, re-bind. Impact on the resale value but less than the next option... [*]To do it the cheap way - lose most of the binding and just sand it, binding, frets 'n all. Takes the value off both the neck and the bass. [/list] Paul's solution is none of the above and is rather elegant:[list] [*]Buy a modern replica replacement neck [*]Give THAT one to the crazy bloke in Derbyshire to attack with his sanding block. Go for functionality rather than authenticity - ie, lose the binding [*]Play what is now a comfortable bass but which still retains the vibe until... [*]...sometime in the future, simply refit the original neck to keep, or sell, an original beauty. [/list] So, on the back of that, Paul HAS sent it (and the original as a template for the pocket measurements, etc) to the crazy bloke in Derbyshire who is now rummaging around for the biggest sanding block and coarsest sandpaper any self-respecting bass has ever been subjected to Here are the two necks: Clearly the new neck is unfinished and a basic copy, but there are a number of things in its favour:[list] [*]It does have the same 'vibe' I particularly like the use of thin, period correct, frets [*]The name badge, while just a printed sticker (the original is a thick perspex piece that is [i]nailed [/i]onto the headstock) is actually a perfect replica of the original's logo [*]Fret dots are spot on [*]It is bound and side dotted, albeit this will be largely sanded off [*]It has a modern accessible truss-rod (the original is in the heel) [/list] Head shape isn't exactly the same and is a little narrower but definitely good enough. The heel also appears to be the correct size. A detail - not sure of the functional value - is the unusual shape of the heel: Here's the original: ...and here's the replacement: Won't affect the performance but intrigued to the purpose of the extra machining. Then again, on the original, what on earth is this great big hole for?: It'll be a few days before I attack the poor little thing but I'll post the carnage when I do Andy
  2. If it was my bass and I didn't want to bother with recutting slots, I'd put a thin shim under the offending side. To remove the nut first score with a sharp knife along the sides to cut through any varnish, find something to act as a drift and give the nut a sharp hammer tap from the side. It should come right out. Pop a sliver of hard plastic (Dunlop 0.6mm picks are good for this), cut to the width of the nut under half of its length. Drop a tiny spot of super glue onto one side of the nut at the other side to the sliver. Pop the sliver in, press the nut back in. Done.
  3. It's become a bit of a cliche, but this is what 'truly awesome' really means Don't think I've ever seen anything like it...
  4. You've finished that very nicely There's some great figuring coming out... Andy
  5. [quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1430582084' post='2762861'] Well, actually, my legal team are currently busy suing [i]me [/i]for forgetting to pay them, so I'd say you're safe enough to just go ahead. Incidentally, I see your SG has a Warwick cavity cover. Did you buy that or what? I'm not sure how to approach covering the cavity of my build. I might buy one (but they seem expensive) or make one out of mdf with a body-wood veneer. [/quote] Yes - I bought a Warwick cover from Thomann - I liked the ease with which you could open them...until I twigged that, with passive humbuckers, why would you WANT to open them??? Last few I've done, I've used a headstock plate-thickness piece of the same wood as the body back:
  6. [quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1430567740' post='2762683'] I'll pass this under the nose of my legal team, but it all seems good to me. I just ordered a router and spent a few days making templates so I'm less concerned with imposing myself on other peoples builds now [/quote] So, I know it's hardly a start but I've rough cut out the template for this: If alittlebitrobot's legal team would please note:[list] [*]I've used his lower horn [*]I've ignored his upper horn (mine now looks like a 'thumb' that's recently spent a day in a brewery...) [*]I haven't [i]exactly[/i] ignored his angled transition from upper horn neck join to lower horn neck join, it's just that - with my crazy way of building these things - I would only rout it away anyway. What I [i]will[/i] do is put that angle into the back of the neck at the transition. The SG 6-string I did (below) has the same construction method, so this is where you will see that angle... [/list] I trust alittlebitrobot's legal team will begin preparations to sue me for every penny I've got...won't cost me much, then Andy
  7. Life, they say, is all about grabbing opportunities when you can...so, while I'm cutting some MDF for a 'little job around the house' I've been stalling for the past 32 years, I just may as well cut the template for this I'm going to stick with my design for the top horn, but use alittlebitrobot's design for the bottom horn. As such, the soldering-iron burnt-in logo across the front of the bass will now read 'alittleb..'. Seem fair? If it stays dry in the morning, I'll also straighten up the joining faces of the body wood. Andy
  8. They are great kits and eminently upgradeable. I built their 6 string electric offset last year and it's my main gigging guitar now...
  9. The 'under-wraps' project is getting very close to completion so I'm moving back to this one in the spare moments (it's going to be a long job!). This morning I got the thicknesser out and skimmed the bubinga to see what the figuring is like under the crud. It's very nice This is the one side: ...and this is the other: I've got a couple of commissions coming so this will continue to take the 'do bits when I can' priority... Andy
  10. [quote name='Joebethell' timestamp='1429720310' post='2754285'] So body is on the way should be here in a couple of days so will add pictures then. I'm also now seriously looking at pickups and I'm considering a plug and play thunderbird set from EMG as no soldering model is TBTW can be single coil or humbuking. Also quite fancy fitting a Sims quad coil? Does any have any experience with either of these setups? [/quote] No experience here, I'm afraid, but sounds interesting. Will be following your thread
  11. [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1429738043' post='2754541'] Excellent [/quote] ...about the hardware arriving, not the absence of the fancy pickups and nut...
  12. [quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1429697404' post='2753991'] Great stuff. I just received a packet of black hardware too. No fancy pickups or nut, sadly. [/quote] Excellent
  13. [quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1429632940' post='2753454'] I used to own a lefty Thumb BO4 and found the neck would dive so be interesting to see if your body design tweaks will alleviate the issue whilst still keeping to a compact body shape. Another small body shape you could consider blending into the mix could be that of a more symmetrical SG but with contouring or is that just impractical? [/quote] Hi sblueplanet The tribute I built didn't suffer from neck dive....although I fully expected it. I tend to build a bit weighty (never cross a bridge I've designed - it is likely to collapse through pure weight!) so I suspect that is why . Time will tell...I'm starting my exercises already
  14. [quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1429455628' post='2751512'] Andy, you're a bloomin' wizard Congrats on an awesome bass Chris! [/quote] Takes off pointy hat and bows low enough for long grey beard to curl round on the floor... ...mind you, starting off with a f*****g lovely bass helped.
  15. [quote name='Chris Sharman' timestamp='1429444683' post='2751382'] Thanks, it's also a beast. The pickups are so hot that it blew an active USA Jazz into the weeds last night! the sound is just EPIC. When we were setting up last night I got this out of the case to put it on the stand and heard the support band guys behind me whisper a collective "F**k Me!" when they saw it. ...and then they heard it... It looks like my Jazz may be hitting the marketplace soon as I can't see this ever leaving my hands. Again, thanks to Andy for his work, and thanks to those on here who contributed to my decision to purchase it. [/quote] It's great to hear, Chris! I told you that it was the best sounding bass I've heard through my own amp... Excellent - can't wait for the next one Andy
  16. Sort of committed now - got the p/ups, EQ and hardware: Thomann seem to have stopped doing the MECs so I've gone for SD SJB-2s with a STC-2 EQ. The hardware is Warwick...still impresses me that their hardware is so relatively affordable I've used the Just a Nut before and I think they are good. For the 'under-wraps' we've gone for the brass one...but for this one I've stuck with the composite but - having now seen the brass one - I'm really tempted... Andy
  17. It was a pleasure to work on this one...it is a stunning bass. Light, slim, and a great great sound. There's a thread in Repairs and Technical about how I go about tidying up a fretboard, which was this one Let us know how it goes in Ripley, Chris!
  18. Love your builds, Jabba. Hope to track you down at the Midlands bash and steal some ideas Andy
  19. [quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1429134536' post='2748489'] Call it the Robot Bass? [/quote] Actually, if it's got to have 'alittlebitrobot' emblazoned in very big letters on it, maybe it should be called the Extraordinarily Large Bass
  20. [quote name='paul_5' timestamp='1429128057' post='2748386'] Exactly the same way I do it, works a treat dunnit? Check that *sparkle* [/quote] Excellent! I thought I was going to get inundated with folk who were going to say 'eeeeeeewwwwwww....you don't want to do it like THAT'
  21. [quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1429128596' post='2748398'] Great but, actually, I insist that I be given due credit in the form of my name, scorched into both the front and back of the bass.... and really big too. [/quote] That seems fair...
  22. [quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1429104123' post='2748034'] Another build! Woohoo! I'm sorry if this is impertinent but I was just thinking about your shape. If it was me, I'd thin the lower horn a bit to match the change to the upper horn a bit. Something like this [url="http://i.imgur.com/B5brGLu.jpg"]http://i.imgur.com/B5brGLu.jpg[/url] Just putting it out there... [/quote] Hi, alittlebitrobot Hmmmm - yes quite like that. Might shamelessly steal that thought Thanks Andy
  23. I won't steal Chris's Thunder of any piccies of the full bass, but I've posted a [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/260067-tidying-up-an-old-fretboard/"]quick thread on tarting up an old fretboard here[/url], if anyone's interested Andy
  24. Hi All Just a quick hints and tips thread of how I go about a well-used fretboard. Chris Sharman's new/old Aerodyne is in my maniacal clutches to tidy it up, look it over and tweak it up a bit. I won't steal his glory, suffice to say it's a LOVELY bass, albeit in need of some TLC - particularly in relation to the fretboard. The frets are not worn, but were very tarnished, gummed up with old finger-grease. The fretboard again was pretty mucky and with quite deep 'wound-round-string-marks' in a number of places. I'm sure other folk do this in other ways, but for what it's worth, this is how I go about it. First is to clean the years of gunk off the rosewood, and also get rid of the string marks. I use a single-edged razor blade as a scraper: Clearly, you don't do this many times in a fretboard's life - unless you want to go scalloped - but for a fresh base to start from it is a very effective way. The razor movement always follows the grain, stopping and starting butted right up to the fret. Because there is no fret wear, I am spared having to get the crowning files out. Like an eejit, I forgot to take a photo of the frets as they originally were but, trust me, they didn't look great! First off was a fret-polishing rubber (I used the 1000grit one) and an old trigonometry template that is perfect for a fret-guard! I then did an initial dousing of lemon-oil, letting it soak in then wiping off the excess: Then, final polishing with a micro-mesh cloth. I used the 8000grit one: Final lemon oil applied and buffed off: ...and photograph the *sparkle* I'll let Chris post the finished shots when it's all done Andy
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