Andyjr1515

Hi again, winterfire666 The basschat thread has gone (it was 2014!) but I still have the photos. This was Bryan's (allighatt0r) Thunderjet: The finishing turned out to be:[list] [*]Top colour coat - easily removeable, over [*]Poly-coat - tough as old boots, over [*]Black primer [/list] I used heat gun and scraper: Here you see the poly under the top coat. It really is VERY tough stuff: However, once you break through the poly (for this, for me, heatgun is the only way. Sanding is a quick route to insanity), the black primer is easily sanded off: On Bryan's, there was a thin ply veneer over the body-wood laminations...a number of makers do this, including some Squier models: Where there are cutaways (beer-gut carve at the back, arm relief carve on the top pictured here) you are down to the base timber but you can see in the above shot the ply on the flat surfaces. Same on the back. In my case, I was veneering the flat surfaces on the top and the back, but this was how it ended up: The veneer is over the top of the ply - the cutaway is the just the underlying wood, stained and varnished Hope this helps!

I refinished allighatt0r's Westone a few years ago. I'll have a peep at the photos when I'm next on the desktop - I might be able to find the thread too...

Very clever stuff. It is rare that folks explain the relicing process as comprehensively as this. It's fascinating!

Lovely job I bet it sounds fabulous...

And with the glue dry, the top is cut out. This is it slightly dampened to show how the figuring will come out: There are some rich colours in there, probably better seen in this sunshine shot: This is going to tone and contrast with the mahogany back beautifully... Talking of sunshine, the camphor laurel is a very 'hole-y' wood. It's very stable but many of those burrs are actually gaps. Here's the sunshine shining through: These will be filled with epoxy mixed with ebony dust - I keep a jar of ebony sandings just for this kind of job. When it's done, it will look like it was always there and, indeed, further enhance the look of the burls... Next job is to finish-thickness the neck beam and cut out the two necks from it

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1502437006' post='3351361'] Can't see the pics from here....which is frustrating because I can't wait to see the progress!!!! [/quote] I see them! And they look GREAT

Can't see the pics from here....which is frustrating because I can't wait to see the progress!!!!

[quote name='Bridgehouse' timestamp='1502392428' post='3351208'] I'd love to be able to get a lacquer check finish like that on some of my relic jobs I say keep it original if you can [/quote] I think that puts us in the majority view...so far

Hi Joe Someone said earlier you'd get loads of different views So, for what it's worth... Having seen how much trouble some builders go to to create exactly that kind of crazing, my inclination would be to leave it alone. It's what old finishes do.... And what mojo! Where there are complete chips and wood fully exposed, I would just subtly dirty the fresh exposed wood - literally wiping it and rubbing it with unwashed hands usually does the job nicely. But whatever you choose to do with it, it's going to be one special instrument

I've been finishing off a fretted alternative neck for a lovely Wal which has distracted me for a few days, but all of the main components for this are now sorted ready for cutting to shape, that is - neck (maple / purpleheart / mahogany); back (mahogany); top (bookmatched camphor laurel): You can probably see how I'm going to get a second neck out of that beam!

Looking good, lel Andy

Thanks, folks

Yes - that's going to work

Thanks for your kind words, folks . Always hugely appreciated! Andy

No competition for me - flamed maple and ebony Voted

I would say that modesty forbids..... ....but pants to that old rubbish I GOT A HAT TRICK OF NoTreble 'BASS OF THE WEEK' with Mick's Psilos!!!!!!!!!! [url="http://www.notreble.com/buzz/2017/08/07/bass-of-the-week-ajr-guitarmods-psilos-bass/"]The NoTreble article is here[/url]. And while you're there, it's worth a look around - it's a GREAT e-zine (even ignoring that fact that I would say that wouldn't I ) Andy

[quote name='Jabba_the_gut' timestamp='1502098919' post='3349241'] Two side are now glued together and clamped. The two G clamps are used to prevent any movement front to back. I use three sash clamps on opposing sides to ensure the pressure is a bit more balanced to keep the two sides stay square. If they were all on one side they could potentially just apply pressure that may cause the joint to move while setting or push the joint up a bit. That's the thinking anyway!! [/quote] Great tip ref the sash clamps, Jez....

Excellent

Looking good Routing with a dremel isn't the easiest of things to do but looks like you've got the hang of it...

That's looking very good, Bridgehouse

[quote name='Meddle' timestamp='1502047686' post='3348992'] I wonder if it went through a lot of thermal cycles, either seasonally or it was kept near a boiler or something? [/quote] My thoughts too. To answer the earlier question, this will not have been a laminated body - it will be a 3-part or so solid construction. It is very unusual for the grain of properly aged wood (which Ibanez will have used) to split so comprehensively without either/or impact/heat/moisture being involved...

Hi, Honza Welcome! I share your interest in ergonomics and weight - I've been doing quite a bit of work myself in that area over my last 4-5 builds and I think there is a LOT of potential with some relatively modest design changes. I'm Derby so would be very pleased to [s]drool over your drum sander[/s] talk through the various successes and failures sometime. I'll drop you a pm. In the meantime we are all very interested to see how your present project develops and, if you encounter any challenges or uncertainties, just ask anything at all - there is bound to be someone dropping along who can help Andy

I have a bit of a reputation for tackling stuff other folk wouldn't bother with but honestly...if it was mine I wouldn't be trying to repair the body. I have no idea why the wood would do that - particularly if as you say it isn't water damage - but what is certain is that there is something fundamental that is going wrong and, even if you glued it all back up, it will probably carry on splitting over time and possibly in places where the structural integrity is critical. The options are probably:[list] [*]sell the neck and pickups (has it got the original tuners?) separately [*]keep your eye out for a donor (pref a cheap 'project' one) with an OK body and swop the good bits [*]get a replacement body made for it [/list] For the hell of it, as long as you manage your expectations, you could just fill the main crack with Titebond and clamp it, and then at least you can see if the bridge holds in place for you to actually play it - but, if it was me, I wouldn't put in the time to try any kind of refinish on the existing body.

It's looking good, Luke. I particularly like the 'reverse strat' jack arrangement. Looks very professional

Excelent to see the sawdust, blablas We're all still here, waiting patiently