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Grangur

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Posts posted by Grangur

  1. From what you say it sounds like the bridge, nut, frets and neck setup may all need attention. This needs to be looked at holistically. For us to be able to give any guidance over the internet we need more pictures.

    A start could be to use the edge of a credit card, sitting across 3 frets at a time, all down the neck, to check how level the frets are. Yet this also has little benefit if you don't have the gear to be able to level the frets.

    Over all, this sounds like a visit to a tech or luthier would be a good idea. (When the Covid19 situation gets better).

     

    • Thanks 1
  2. 17 hours ago, Angel said:

    I don't suppose anyone has any recommendations for inexpensive PJ pickups for 5 string (not active)?

    I'm just planning building my first bass from scratch, and I really liked the PJ setup I had on an old bass some years ago. I don't have tons of spare wonga so I have to have a bit of a budget mindset. I don't want active as I have a J-Retro 01 that I'm planning on sticking in.

    Anything cheap (ish) but useable out there?

     

    I've got one in a draw somewhere. It's a Bill Lawrence P-46 pickup.

    https://www.wildepickups.com/products/p-46

    It's pretty cool and is good for 4 or 5 strings. The price isn't too silly too.

  3. 2 minutes ago, fretmeister said:

    I'd still have to take the rig off the cart when in use other wise those things always end up with a nasty rattle somewhere.

    Then go for fixing casters to the bottom of the One10 and find a way to attach a handle - so the One10 becomes the base of the trolley and all the other gear sits on top - like a bag the aircrew use.

    I'd look at lifting the pull-up handle from an old suitcase and go from there.

    • Like 2
  4. Hi @Zengineer, you say you're a newbie. Maybe, before you rush into getting frets put on the bass, you should keep it a while longer. Play another, fretted bass, for some months or years and then re-visit the Wal.

    Commercially you won't regret having it fretted, but will it be right for you?

    Incidentally, if you're having it fretted, I'd be inclined to ask The Gallery, if they can fret it without the frets going through the sides of the neck - as the fretting is done on Warwick basses. If any one can, I guess the Gallery can do this. Good luck on your Bass journey.

  5. 19 hours ago, Machines said:

    In 2005 I recall going into Sound Control Manchester and they had about 30 Warwicks. They just are a bit passe nowadays. 

    Yet I've never understood the attraction to paint finish, where 1 bass looks exactly the same as any other of that description. Add to that a bolt-on neck that's a loose fit in the body; giving a muffled sound to the notes to my ears.
    Give me a  good Warwick any day. Each to their own.

    • Like 1
  6. 12 minutes ago, Machines said:

    They have hardly anything in stock if you look closely at their website.

    1070 products to order, 29 actually in store. Of which 5 are Yamaha/Ibanez.

    Try finding Warwick basses you can try before buying. 5 is a glorious selection. 

    I'm amazed we don't see more posts of summat like:

    "I want to try a Wal. Who near Brum has one?"

    At least with Yam or Ibanez you can always buy it from Thomman and send it back if you don't want it.

    • Like 1
  7. 57 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

    It's a very odd book, typical of the sort that would have terrified me by its reliance on musical notation, but it obviously got a lot of folks started.

    I think the book was partly aimed at upright players 'converting' to electric:

    That might explain a lot. If you're an upright player you don't have frets. So intonation is less important, because you'll adjust your fingering to tune the note to your ear. At the time of writing, electric basses were new and she implies adjustable bridges were an optional feature, so people at the time may possibly have been confused about what the adjustment is for. 

  8. 8 minutes ago, DanOwens said:

    She advocates "pulling the bridges back"? That sounds like messing up the intonation to change the break angle and adjust the tension, am I right about this?

    It also seems Ms Kay doesn't have confidence to describe how to adjust neck relief, so maybe she hasn't got a clue how to set up a bass at all. 

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  9. On 03/09/2019 at 00:34, Count Bassy said:

    I get Gonzeula to do it with Lemon Pledge.

    If you use silicon sprays on any bass (or furniture) you will never be able to refinish it ever again.

    Silicon is a spray finisher's nightmare. You can never get rid of it and it repels paint or lacquer. 

     
    • Like 1
  10. On 24/04/2019 at 21:16, Dan Dare said:

    If you do use Mr Sheen and other silicone based cleaners, don't spray them direct onto things. Silicone is a great insulator and can play havoc with electronics. Spray onto a cloth and wipe with that.

    If you use silicon sprays on any bass (or furniture) you will never be able to refinish it ever again.

    Silicon is a spray finisher's nightmare. You can never get rid of it and it repels paint or lacquer. 

  11. A twist in the neck will cause the truss rod to not work correctly. Don't force the TR. If you do, there's a fair chance you'll break the rod or do other damage in the process. I've fixed a few necks, some worse than yours.

    Yes that neck is very fixable. It simply needs to be clamped in the right way and heat applied to the neck will help it get back in shape.

    Take it to a tech who knows what they're doing and it'll be fine.

    • Like 1
  12. In the commercial world re-stocking or returns handling fees aren't unusual, but not where consumers are concerned. I can understand the reseller's frustration when he's ordered in an item especially on the request of a customer, only to have this, possibly obscure, item returned. But that's the risk they open themselves to when they start up a retail business.

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