LukeFRC

I read this really interesting article a year or so ago that was talking about Joanna Newsom and Kate Bush and how more individual singing styles if you are a man, and you can be a musical genius with one (Eg Dylan) but with women with individual singing styles they will always be written about a quirky, odd etc 

23 minutes ago, yorks5stringer said:

Wharedale used to manufacture in and around Bradford in the 70's and 80's, I remember factories in Idle and  a TV? one in Shipley. Not sure if they went bust and the brand name was bought and or just transfered all production to China some years ago.

Airedale then surely?

1 hour ago, Marcoelwray said:

personally my Template is Always a square, I make the holes by hand…. Router can't make nice defined edges between the screws plots and the square housing, IMHO.

What did you buy finally?

This : drill the holes first then the rectangle 

Is wood bit with the two on it the neck blank? If so what is it? It looks amazing.

21 hours ago, chris_b said:

I've been thinking that for a couple of years and in that time I've checked out at least half a dozen Sadowsky Jazz basses, including a chambered NYC, a Modern, PJ, a Satin and some other Metros.

They all sound good, but so far, I'm just preferring the sound of my Metro RV5 Jazz. Now I'm not sure that I need an NYC at all.

It’s that thing where we think the more expensive thing is better. Even when it’s probably just different 

These cabs were discussed on here 9 years ago too...

17 hours ago, stevie said:

Luke, this cab is aimed at the owner of the newer class D amps producing 500W into 4 ohms and 300W into 8 ohms. Unless you run your amp flat out, there's not a huge difference between 300W and 165W - so I suspect you'd be fine. This cab will certainly go as loud with your amp as any other 12" cabinet out there. It will obviously not be as loud as a 2x12" 4-ohm cab though.

Hmmm so different amp, two of them or I resist this rig changing GAS...

7 hours ago, Al Krow said:

...or you could folk out a mere £10,305.58 and buy it now.

!!!

Common practice on eBay for items with lots of watchers when you run out of stock 

1 hour ago, intime-nick said:

I was asked to join another band a couple of days ago and I’ll have to revert back to a amp/cab setup for this instead of my usual zero backline/IEM setup from the other band.

i was going to take my BF Super Twin and GK amp but have decided to dig the Helix out of retirement and use a Yamaha DBR15 powered cab. It turns out the guitarist is reasonably sensible and uses an 18w Suhr valve amp into a 1x12 cab so I think it’ll all balance out OK. 

Quite a nice setup to have sat arround in retirement! 

53 minutes ago, Walker said:

Bit confused. Have I killed rock n roll or Motown? 

No- Jameson used to go straight into the desk ...

1 hour ago, Frank Blank said:

Well the expected day-long titting about was actually about ten minutes grinning like an idiot and then getting a cuppa. Plugged the bass directly into Channel B, set it to the Bass Amp preset and behold... a rich warm full tone without any EQ. I didn't think the Rob Allen could sound any lovelier but, even through the AER, I'd obviously not been hearing it to it's full potential. As @Bridgehouse says in his initial post Channel B can be set to Line or Instrument but on the Instrument setting it is whompingly loud so I just left it on the Line setting. With the Rob Allen's on board volume up to about 75% and the QSC's Gain set at three (it goes up to twenty) it was plenty for home use, I put it on to the Instrument setting and by the time I had the QSC's gain up to five the room started to shake! I hope I'm not doing anything wrong by leaving it on the Line setting? Anyway, then I tried Rob Allen > Fishman Platinum Pro > QSC, bliss. As I said before, just bass direct into the QSC is the best tone I've ever got from anything, with the Fishman I can then tweak the best tone I've ever had from anything. I spent hours pouring over @Bridgehouse's Interesting FRFR thread and was pretty much convinced by the (mostly) learned and eloquent explanations and arguments, having tried the QSC K12.2 in the shop I was convinced enough to buy one, now I've actually got it home turns out it is your actual bona fide revelation. I have posted this pic on the Show Us Your Rig thread but it belongs here too, RnR killer that it is...

Seeing the Rob Allen Mouse is a somewhat specialist bass, and because you’ve stuck that picture there, how does it sound with the Ibanez? 

1 hour ago, Muzz said:

Ahhhh, but it's not necessarily the second thoughts: I traded an amp for a WA, played it for a while, had second thoughts and traded it back, and then bought another, and this one has stuck. If I had a fiver for every Stingray I've bought, had second thoughts about and sold, then a few months later bought another one, only to repeat the process, I'd have at least enough to buy a set of Elixirs...

It's more to do with where you are at a specific time with what you need an amp (or any piece of kit) to do. I used to own an SVT and an 810. Never again, and not because I didn't like the sound it made...

And on the back of that, one opinion on an amp is just that, and unless I knew that the person whose opinion it was had the same tone goals as I did, it wouldn't be any real use. I had a ToneHammer 500 and didn't like it at all, and I don't like Jazz basses (and they are two of the most widely liked pieces of kit you can buy), but I wouldn't expect a single person to listen to my opinion with anything more than a passing interest...a possibly a mutter of 'weirdo...' 🙂

You've only got to look at, for instance,  the difference in the avatar pics of the inestimable Beedster above mine to see that we just might have different tone goals...so something I might be gaga for isn't gonna work for him, and vice versa. And that's a good thing, otherwise there'd only be one type of bass, one amp and one cab, and then what would we all have to parp on about? 😀

I think one odd thing is that people will waxlyrical about a bit of gear, but saying what they use it for is less mentioned - a once a month metal band is different to a cruise ship jazz band is different to a indie rock touring band  is different to a ... and so on. 

If you were in a band where it was not that frequent but it was a very much enjoyed hobby to pull on the tight Lycra a play some great 80s rock classics you might justify the SVT and 810... whereas the wedding reception band probably want something quicker to load in and out 

Everyone posts positive reviews, goes out and buys the shiny new thing, post even more positive reviews - then there’s a lull and their for sale post has even more positive reviews “best amp I’ve ever played , but....”

Situation I was in a few years ago we used a electronic kit - sounded amazing in FOH big odd to play with as the tiny latency, plus reflection off the back wall of the venue meant you couldn’t watch the drummer and needed it in the fold back - IEM would solve the problem which I guess is the point of this thread.

also to the person who is about to say it must have been an old or low tech kit that was years ago as they don’t have latency now.... thanks, but I’ve preempted you!

I approached the problem from another direction on my bass build 

the problem you’ve got is the MM and J bridge pup need to be in different positions - and they overlap in such a way you can’t have both even with the fancy Delano pickup. 

The other problem is that a jazz - even an active one (normally) has both pups going through a passive volume or passive volumes and blend before the preamp. The stingray has the pickup going straight into the preamp and the volume is adjusting the output of the preamp. 

So you can have a stingray that you can add another pickup too - if you want you can have a single coil mode which sounds kinda like a jazz - that’s what my build was

or you can have a jazz that you can get a fatter more humbucker type bridge sound out of. Lakland and sandberg have good examples of these. but they will never sound like a ray.

My suggestion- have two basses. 

2 hours ago, stevie said:

I'm using an Ashdown Rootmaster 500 at the moment. The driver itself is quite sensitive. From about 80 Hz up, It's at least a couple of dB more sensitive than the Kappaliter 12LF used in the Fearful and others. I've modelled them both in our cab. Blue is the Kappalite. Both drivers will go lower in a larger cabinet.

 

 

What kind of amp power would you recommend? 

Edit: I use a walkabout so only have 300-400w into 4 ohms 

2 hours ago, wateroftyne said:

I can’t imagine the repair bill if you buy a grey import and it goes pop...

At least 8 Bugera veyrons...

1 minute ago, Sarlscharisma said:

I'm seriously considering buying one from Mesa direct.  How would it stand with any warranty though.  Could I use the warranty in the UK?  I doubt this would be the case

I doubt they will sell to the UK

1 hour ago, leftybassman392 said:

For a while I actually made a living (well part of a living anyway) playing  - mostly - Jazz to rooms full of people who were too busy yakking and/or eating to pay much attention to what I was doing. And yes, you can get away with playing pretty much anything you fancy for as long as you fancy. Good money, minimal gear and you don't have to share the proceeds with four other people. What's not to like?

What? Solo bass jazz or where you playing another instrument? 

What are you powering the cabs with? And how much power/how sensitive are they?

I was always tempted to build a fearful - but was kinda put off by the whole tendency for folk to use massive high wattage amps 

3 hours ago, Bill Fitzmaurice said:

If I'd used a run of the mill driver as the example invariably someone would have said a better driver would have given a better result. Not that there aren't any drivers better than the 12SW1300 Nd, but they're few and far in between, and aren't going to be found in an off the shelf electric bass cab.

Is that driver used in off the shelf electric bass cabs!!! Ones mortals can afford 

1 hour ago, Bill Fitzmaurice said:

It would, for the reason I already stated, you'd have to find one with linear response from 100w to 300w. Good luck with that quest. Thermal power compression alone will render the simple math null and void. For instance, consider the Beyma 12SW1300 Nd. It's rated at 1200w AES and has 10mm xmax, so on the face of it there's no problem with a 300w input. However, thermal power compression at 100w is 0.25dB, at 300w it's 1dB, so right there the 4.77dB increase you might expect with 300w versus 100w is closer to 4dB. That's with a premium driver, which has much lower than average thermal power compression. There's also mechanical power compression to take into account. With 10mm xmax that won't be much, but the 12SW1300 Nd is hardly a typical driver. Drop that xmax to a more likely to be found 5mm and mechanical compression can be just as significant as thermal. 

Nice cheap driver there Bill! 

Well that love affair was short lived 

12 minutes ago, CameronJ said:

This could get expensive...

Just go and listen in my n @Frank Blank s test on Friday 

On 09/12/2018 at 12:35, Cairobill said:

Only have great memories of this place. Would turn up most Saturdays in the mid eighties and work my way through (really nice) Warwicks, Statii, Jaydees, Wals, Alembics, Pedullas, the odd Steinberger and a brace of Zons for a few hours through a Trace stack, then head home to continue my A Level revision.

Staff were never less than accommodating to a youth who clearly could only afford a pack of strings, especially the fellow with the massive mullet. LOVED that place.

“That kid in again?!”

”yep”

”you letting him tune everything for you?”

”yep”