Rich44

EDIT: Answered my question/

I'll be getting my shortscale in a few weeks (30") but there doesn't really seem to be much luck finding cases for them. I was looking for just a simple gig bag, maybe with say 15-30mm padding (I don't travel much so its just to prevent scratches and nicks) and preferably under £25. Any suggestions for what will fit?

[quote name='MB1' post='669332' date='Nov 29 2009, 06:52 PM']MB1. ...Ashdown Tourbus 10 Less than £50 and has a headphone and Mp3 input...smaller and lighter than a peavey! [/quote] BRILLIANT! I actually found that when searching but had forgotten what the make was. Any effects input? And whats sound quality like, I don't care about volume really, but is it clear/not much buzz/hum?

Was looking at getting something super compact since I don't have much room in my uni halls at all, so current amp is just taking up too much space when I don't need it to. Current amp is a Marshall MB-15, which yes is pretty compact compared to most amps, but still too big to be lugging to uni. Have seen a few so far but most are really pricy (roland micro cube, markbass micromark etc), which considering its a practice amp just seems pointless. The best one I've seen is the Peavey Micro Bass (20watts) - £60-80 but its discontinued so will that cause issues for support/parts?

[quote name='bassbarber' post='584499' date='Aug 29 2009, 02:15 PM']hi i wanted to fill some holes from were a old scratchplate/ pickguard has been. what is the best way of doing this the body is black by the way. could i use something like uni bond or polly filler and a maker pen ?[/quote] I'm certainly no expert but I'd assume a dark wood filler would be your best bet. I'm not sure how you'd get the black finish even though without sanding around the filled in hole and repsraying. [url="http://terrydownsmusic.com/technotes/pickguard/pickguard_hole_drilling.htm"]http://terrydownsmusic.com/technotes/pickg...le_drilling.htm[/url] That shows some holes being filled in. Unibond and pollyfiller would probably leave a chalky/plasterlike finish which would be pretty noticable.

[quote name='Daquifsta' post='584584' date='Aug 29 2009, 04:09 PM']What you might also try is undoing the screw at the opposite end of the pickup a little aswell, thus kind of swinging the whole thing, so that the pickup ends up closer to the higher strings. I set up all my basses myself (rightly or wrongly!) and I always have the pickups a little closer to the high strings than the low ones. My second suggestion is that I once had a similar problem with an 'E' string which was pretty old, and concluded that somehow the outer windings of the string had come away from the core wire a little and the string was kind of rattling within itself, if that makes sense to you? So maybe try another string?[/quote] Yeh, that makes sense, Its a quite recent problem so it is probably the string rather than the pickup. Thanks.

[quote name='WarPig' post='584442' date='Aug 29 2009, 01:05 PM']To lower the E side pick up, there should be a screw on the side of the pup, tighten this to lower it.[/quote] Won't this also lower the pickup under the A string slightly? Or will it all just balance out.

For a while now my E string has been bothering me, and I need it sorted before I can sell it. At the volume I play at, basically the E string is excessively loud, whereas the other strings are barely audiable, and obviously if the volume is turned up to hear them the E string is made even louder. The only information I can find states I should lower the pickup on the E string, how would I do this, is it a difficult job? Others have said its a string guage issue but I doubt this, as I never had any problems before (I use 45-105 guage strings). I know very little about pickups, all I can tell you is they are p-bass style, [url="http://www.allacoustic.net/yamaha%20rbx170.JPG"]http://www.allacoustic.net/yamaha%20rbx170.JPG[/url] like this.

Ok, a bit of a weird request I know! Its a rather subtle line I guess but its really really funky. Has anyone got a good tab of it?

When i first started, the self-teachign books I bought all said to use the "travelling thumb" technique, which i did for the first three months. But I was having real problems with accuracy and noise when crossing strings, I switched to anchored and I can now pluck alot more fluidly. Don't think I'll go back to non-anchored.

I used to do the same out of laziness (I too had the problem of needing to use headphones, all the wires getting tangled, etc etc). But I find it means you ultimately develop bad habits like playing alot harder than is needed. I wouldn't say its good in the long run.

[quote name='daflewis' post='565774' date='Aug 11 2009, 11:27 AM']do you have a stiff/aching neck? for many years i thought i was suffering from tendonitis in the wrist (was even told this by an nhs consultant). i'm a full time pro, and when i started my current job i began having severe problems including tingling palms, so i thought i was developing cts as well. After doing some online research i discovered that pressure on a nerve in the neck can often cause these symptoms - see [url="http://www.wellsphere.com/back-neck-pain-article/serious-neck-pain-and-carpal-tunnel-symptoms/427975"][color="#FF0000"]here[/color][/url] I went to see a great osteopath in north london who is also a violinist - i really wanted to see someone who understood musicians, especially as the nhs consultant had released me saying, "as far as we're concerned it's a mild case" - meaning i could still do simple things like pick up a cup.....oh great.... After one session with the osteo there was a 60-70% improvement in the tingling palm and within six weeks/sessions i was completely free of hand and wrist problems for the first time in about 6-7 years. i now just make sure i do my stretching exercises and i'm fine - still do get a stiff neck but at least it doesn't end up down my arm. I'm not saying this is your problem, but it's certainly worth looking into - and the same for everyone else having problems - especially Sugden!!! - if you push your head forward and then look up, this puts pressure on nerves in the neck - for me it's pit work - looking up at a conductor - but it's the same postion that you adopt on a bike!! i still get tingling fingers when i ride but it goes away if i push my head back and tuck my chin in to strech the back of my neck. Good luck! Daf P.S. if anyone wants the osteo's number let me know (he also works in Bristol).[/quote] I do have a stiff neck but thats from repetiveness of my recent cashier job, constantly looking left to right! My wrists have been playing up months before I started that though, but I know what you mean, the worst symptom is definately the tingling, there was a week where it was so bad I couldn't even grip a door handle without a shock running up my arm.

[quote name='GonzoBass' post='565047' date='Aug 10 2009, 02:52 PM']I've found this site to be very useful- [url="http://ergocise.com/wrists.html"]ergocise.com[/url] It shows several ways of stretching and strengthening your hands/wrists. For example- I did notice quite a bit of difference after only a week of following their advice. I hope this helps you as much as it did me.[/quote] Thanks for that, will definately try them. I've bought a book called "conquering carpal tunnel" which apparently has good reviews, should get it next week but I'll be using that website in the meantime.

Thanks alot for the replies, greatly appreciated. I think I just need to keep reminding myself to go lightly with it, I'[m going to pretend as though I'm a total beginner playing from scratch, and get lessons to go over all the basic technique and erase any bad habits. I'm trying to avoid surgery (although I may go for steroid injections), but at this stage its more of a mild irritation, its the dequervains (side of wrist and thumb joints) which I'd say is bothering me the most right now. Anyway, thanks again for responding.

I've just spoken to a physiotherapist and she reckons I have both dequervains syndrome and a mild case of carpal tunnel. I've been resting the last three months and only been playing bass maybe 5-10minutes daily. I'm only 19 and have never played for more than 30mins-an hour daily so its really annoying me, i must naturally have weak wrists. She said just keep resting, but I really want to start bass from scratch again (otherwise I may as well just give it up now). My technique is ok except for maybe how my thumb rests on the back of the neck. Would you think it would be advisable for me to see a bass tutor to go right back to basics (i.e still be playing, just honing technique) or maybe even just doing theory a few more weeks with them (no playing) until it heals (would they do non-practice sessions?). Also, does anyone play with wrist-braces. I've heard people criticise them for not allowing enough flexibility, but if they can stop the wrist bending too much surely this will help?

[url="http://www.monocase.com/mono-straps.asp"]http://www.monocase.com/mono-straps.asp[/url] These look really really comfy, with pick pockets too and a 3 year warranty. Bit pricy at about £20 but not too bad I guess. I love the look of their gig bags too, but they are way out of my budget!

^ I love It Overtakes Me, always play it when I'm bored! Stuck in the Middle by Stealers Wheels, always fun. Or how about something by the Pixies? The lines are usually pretty straight forward but sound great. "Hey" is my personal fave.

[quote name='51m0n' post='537971' date='Jul 11 2009, 04:43 PM']That would be Methylated Spirits to you an I sir. +1 to the meths tube solution, works great - I leave one set soaking and have one set on the bass, take a set out for a day bfore swapping (so they thoroughly dry out). Brings back as much (or more) zing than boiling, doesnt temper the metal, and leaves no risk of rust on the core. Result, strings last a lot longer than when boiling them. My DRs on my 4 banger are well over a year old and sound about 4 days old to my ears....[/quote] Are Meths similar to rubbing alcohol? Because I usually use that to clean strings. Just loosen then, soak a cotton pad in rub. alcohol then run it along the strings a few times. Works pretty well, gets all the grime off.

[quote name='Count Bassy' post='513065' date='Jun 14 2009, 12:18 AM']Check at the ends, especially at the bridge end (ie between the anchor and the saddle), to see if any of the windings have unravelled and are touching the bridge. I had this once and it gave an effect very like you describe.[/quote] Well low and behold, just check it and the E string windings are coming off at the nut end and a little bit at the bridge! You psychic much?! Should I just try to trim these now? Can't afford new strings at the mo.

[quote name='andyonbass' post='512995' date='Jun 13 2009, 09:11 PM']Is it an active bass? its normally an indication that the battery is going flat. Try changing it it. Of course, if its passive, it wont be that! [/quote] Nope, its a passive I'm afraid.

Just picked up my bass to play and whilst the A, D and G strings sound normal and quite clear, the E is highly highly fuzzed. It sounds like its been run through an effects box, i mean, it sounds really perfectly fuzzy but obviously I'd like it back to normal. Is this a pickup problem, it seems odd how dramatically changed it sounds, I haven't done anything to the bass so its odd its changed.

Hate to sound cliche but it just sounds like a confidence thing? You sound like you've got the ability to do it, its just nerves getting the better of you. You tried maybe making a setlist so to speak of what you are going to play? Try to structure it a little, might help. Obviously you don't want to be too rigid, but just so you have an idea what you want to play/try to make them flow nicely. Also, do you play alone? How about getting a buddy to come along, maybe play a bit of acoustic alongside? Can't beat a bit of acoustic/bass combo! And yeh, don't feel the need to go all out, what sounds complicated to a bassist and to a member of public are two different things, just get it to sound "good".

[quote name='henry norton' post='500022' date='May 28 2009, 04:46 PM']That's what I did! It'll give you a good idea of the differences. The EB's playing really well by the way, and I've managed to keep it away from my router so far [/quote] Yup, I did a bit of maths when deciding to go for shortscales and worked out its a shift down one fret for every 2"s off the overall scale length. Thats why I think 30" is ideal, as it takes nearly an inch from the 1-4 fret span (my most hated area ).

[quote name='redstriper' post='499105' date='May 27 2009, 05:56 PM']Go for the Cort if you like a modern sound, it's much better quality than the Squier and more versatile than the EB-0. You can get it within budget [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/cort_action_junior_bass.htm"]here[/url]. Thomanns are very good to deal with and I think they will give you a refund (less postage) if you don't like it (check first). I've bought various gear from them and always been pleased with their service. There's a review of the Cort [url="http://reviews.harmony-central.com/reviews/Electric+Bass/product/Cort/Action+Bass+Jr/10/1"]here[/url] which I didn't write but totally agree with.[/quote] Thank you so much! Think i'll be going for the cort then, lets just hope it stays like that for another month so i can get funds! Hopefully I can get £85-100 for my yamaha (year old, pristine, bought for £125)

[quote name='redstriper' post='498685' date='May 27 2009, 12:51 PM']Cort Action Junior is an excellent quality, very playable little bass with a modern sound. Recommend you try one before settling for a bronco or EB-0.[/quote] I think the Cort looks the nicest out of those recommended, sounds alot like my rbx, and I do prefer modern looking basses (canny stand pickguards! ). Bit pricy at £205, but maybe if i could find a second hand i'd go for it. The SX shortscales are £115 (with shipping), its a bit too expensive for me to buy without ever even held one (im a student so £115 is a bit too much to "risk" so to speak). I'm not sure I'd be really skilled enough to do too many mods (pickups would be the max really). I quite like the bronco, and it'd be a safer bet than the SX, but again it would need a couple of mods to get it to match how my yammy sounds.