GregBass

Just bought a Warwick Corvette from Chris - painless and quick. Thanks for a great deal

Thanks for the advice, guys. Warwick have informed me that this model does not have a changeable truss rod (just my luck eh?), but my local friendly luthier thinks he may be able to replace the bullet for me. I'll let you know how it goes ......

Help!! I recently bought a 2005 Warwick Corvette Active which looks and sounds great, but badly needs a setup. Unfortunately, it seems that a previous owner has been a little "over enthusiastic" which has resulted in the Allen fitting at the top of the truss rod being virtually completely stripped. Does anyone have any idea how I can adjust the relief without risking further damage?

I started playing in 1968 - here is the list: Egmond Lucky 6 (I think). Amazing bass that has no truss rod. It has been mangled over the years and is now in pieces in my loft. Upgraded to an Epiphone – not sure what model, but Japanese bought new in 1970. It had the body shape of a P-bass but with two humbuckers. Sold to a mate. Upgraded again to a 1972 Rickenbacker 4001 with chequered binding. Stunning. Sold it to raise the deposit for a house. 1966 Hofner Violin Bass. Played like a dog and sounded like someone kicking a cardboard box. Couldn’t compare with the Rick, so I sold it for 15 quid. We learn from our mistakes, eh? (Actually we don’t – I also sold a 60s AC30 for 35 quid). Fender precision – took it in part exchange for the Rick and moved it on within a week. 1973 Fender Mustang Competition. Kiddies bass, but did the job for 15 years. I still have this – it’s awaiting a recondition. 1979 Rickenbacker 4001. I just missed the first one so much that I had to buy another, and it’s still my number 1 bass. Warwick Rockbass Streamer 5 string. A damned good bass for the money, but the pickups are a bit feeble (a common complaint, I believe). Squier Precision 5 string. Oh dear. It was clear in the shop that it needed adjustment, but the price was right. The truss rod head stripped as I adjusted it. Gave it to my son for him to play with. On the way, purchased this week, are a mid 90s Warwick Corvette passive and a 2006 Warwick Corvette active. I will post a conclusion when I have them in my hands

Thanks for the warm welcome, guys. Gary mac - I am already spending way too much time on here - it will soon be way too much money too, I suspect. John - I'll bring the pies if you bring the beer

Hi there I am a grizzled old bass player from the wilds of Lincolnshire. I started playing about 45 years ago, then gave up when gigs started to feel like work. I came out of retirement when two of my sons (guitar and drums) asked me to join them in a rock covers band, and though they have moved on, I have caught the bug again!! Gear wise I have a gorgeous old Rick 4001 that I bought about 30 years ago, a Fender Mustang that's older than that and a Warwick Rockbass 5 string that I bought to play around on. I use a Peavey Tour 700 head with a Peavey 4x10 and an Electrovoice 1x18 sub (yep - I like it deeep lol). Anyway, it's great to be here and I hope to make lots of new friends!! Greg

As others have said, maybe you should concentrate more on the total sound of the band. You mention a guitar and drummer, so I am assuming that you have just one guitarist. If that is the case, the bass player should also be filling the middle ground that keeps the band sound full while the guitarist is doing the pyrotechnic stuff. On the whole, my personal preference is to keep the full bass but also add full treble - not flat, but boosted - and take out the mid to give the traditional V-shaped equalisation often used on PA. I find that works really well through my setup of an 18" sub for the depth and 4x10 with horn for the high mids and top. I have found that this gives deep bass but with penetration and clarity - all necessary to give the band a punchy sound. Woolly, all bass actually does no-one any favours for your line-up and playing rock.