paul_5

Maggie's Farm - Bob Dylan

I think the problem is that IEMs don't need as much distortion due to their frequency response - amp/cab pairings will inevitably cut some of the top end which will allow more dirt due to the bass not sounding as 'fizzy'. 

1 hour ago, Al Krow said:

 

You've whetted my interest! Out of interest, which other filter pedals have you used?

DOD FX25, DOD FX25B, Q-Tron (big box) Q-Tron Mini, Q-Tron Nano, Q-tron +, Chunk Systems Agent 00Funk (a close second, but mostly because is sooooo much smaller), and a couple of Donner micro pedals (a purple one and a white one). All of them did what I needed them to, but the meatball is just incredibly flexible; I can set it for any sound from any bass.

Your concern is justified @al krow, the Meatball is the single best filter I've used in over 30 years of playing.

On 09/12/2025 at 17:16, lowdown said:

I suppose it's that time of year again for the classics:

 

This is probably my favourite joke EVER!! 

At least we can be fairly sure that it’s a rosewood board - nothing splinters in quite the same way!

If you’re only going to do it once then a cheap set is fine, depends how many nut replacements you plan on doing in the future…

Dirty Movies - Van Halen

I had a Boss phase, then an EHX phase, then an EBS phase, then an MXR phase and then just went ‘open season’ on anything. I learned that I prefer certain manufacturers for specific effects (I prefer EHX stuff for modulation for example) but it took a while to get there.

Rounds with a light overdrive works every time for me. Can't hurt to boost a little at around 200Hz either.

Throw Away Your Television - RHCP again.

Still got more strings than knobs, not excessive at all!

Playing around with a tube overdrive using Matsumin’s Valvecaster circuit. I’ve changed the caps to allow more bass through and boosted the input to create a higher signal level into the drive stage. I’m waiting for some capacitors rated at 63v to add a charge pump to supply the tube plates with 30 odd volts. So far it sounds great!

Charlie's Enormous Mouth - Zappa

Yes, check it. 
I’d use a known good stereo lead and a multimeter set to continuity or diode mode and see which one goes to tip, ring or sleeve.

Jack sockets for active basses need 3 connections - tip, ring and sleeve. This means that whenever a Jack lead is plugged in it forms a connection between the ring and sleeve which completes the power supply circuit - typically the ground connection, leaving the tip to carry the signal. This has the advantage of not drawing power from the battery whenever you unplug your lead. If the original socket only has 2 lugs then you’re going to need an awful lot of batteries…

Sex on fire - every band, everywhere.

Ah, the 1153. I have very fond memories of my old TE kit. 

Like anything in music (and life in general for that matter) you'll never do it fast if you can't do it slow. Conscious, precise, slow movements are the key to any change/improvement.

I've played floating thumb since I started, and doing anything else feel weird!

Always wind to the bottom of the tuning peg, and check that the strings aren't in torsion (twisted) when they go through the bridge. I do this by getting the string tight enough to produce a pitch (not anywhere near the final tuning), grip the string between my thumb and forefinger and run them down the length of the string from the nut to the bridge - when the ball end spins then you're taking the unnecessary twist from the string. Doesn't happen everytime I re-string, but it's worth doing every time, just in case.

Lonesome Cowboy Burt - Zappa

Liar - MegaDave

I can do that stuff most of the time, but look dreadful naked. Swings and roundabouts Rob.

Blackberry - The Black Crowes

So What - Anti Nowhere League