P-punk

I'm trying to find a 112 or 212 from the LB series, but they've been discontinued. The replacements from the VS series aren't that interesting as they're double the weight.

I've posted this on talkbass as well, but as I live in Europe I thought it would be wise to post it here also. First of all - I'm a total noob when it comes to amps. I've never owned any decent amps myself, just small practice amps. In the rehearsal room my band rents there's an SVT and a 610. When we play gigs I almost always play the venues rig - 90% of the time it is an SVT with an 810 or 610. I've been wanting a small(ish) tube head for a while. As my basses spend most of the time in the living room it can't be to big. Been looking on used B15 and other small amps, but never found one at the right price. Recently I got an offer I couldn't refuse on an Ashdown Little Bastard, so the head is on its way to me now. However I need a new cab to match the LB, and I was hoping for some tips. In general I like a more old school sound, and that's why I bought a tube head. My basses are a Precision with Pyramid flats, a Jazz with Pyramid nickels (and sometimes LaBella flats) and a Lakland Bob Glaub with Sunbeams. I NEVER slap, and I like to play '60s and '70s rock. The amp will primarily be used as a practice amp, but I wanna be able to gig with it occasionally as well, so I need an effective cab as the head is only 30W. Don't think I need a tweeter. Budget under €1000. Anyone?

May I ask you what you had to pay? When I first saw it on their facebook page a couple of weeks ago, I just knew that I had to have one. However, living in Norway I'll probably have to order it from the UK. Can't see any of my local music stores ever taking them in.

Hi. Bought a set of pickup- and bridge covers for my old P-bass a while ago. Wanted them to look older to match the look of the bass. Searched the net for a safer way to do it than using muratic acid, found this: [i]For my method I prefer something that takes a little more time, but its safe to me and everyone around me. Things you will need: Metal pan for boiling(this is something you dont want to keep so make sure its a junk pan and not your moms best pan LOL Mortons Iodized Salt White Vinegar Water Time, Time, Time, this is not for the impatient. Ok first step get your salt and vinegar.. If your hungry get some chips too.One pan full of water.. Start that stove and let the fun begin Add a decent amount of salt to the water, I would say a cup of salt if this was a recipe.. What we are going to make is a Salt water brine. Now some agree with this some dont.. I have had excellent results with this method. We are going to add some Vinegar to the mix, vinegar is usually between 3-5% acidity. So in the process of the salt water brine were going to add some of that acidity to the mix which will help in the aging process. Now dont over do it I used about a 1/2 a cup of vinegar. Get a nice sized container and throw all your metal parts in there.. Obviously dont throw your electrical parts like pots, switches, and pickups, etc etc in there. LOL As you can see the salt has no become one with the water.. This is what were after. You dont need to boil it for hours just until the water and salt have mixed. After about 10-15 mins of boiling I now have a *safe* acidic salt water brine.. Take the water and carefully pour it into the container with the parts.. Now its a waiting game. When doing the saltwater brine method I will let the parts sit for 2 days in the water, then I will take them out and let them air dry(again I will repeat air dry do not dry them with a rag etc. just let them dry naturally), and then back in the water for 2 days, and then out, etc etc until the parts age the way I want them too. Screws and Nuts etc, will age alot faster than there Chrome counterparts bridges, tuners. So its just a matter of examining the parts on the days there taken out to air dry. If you feel they need more time in the brine so be it, put them back in, if not put them aside to wait till the others have aged.. This method is safe, and effective, there is more control this way..[/i] Search the net for the ibanezcollector relicing guide if you want more tips and pics.

[quote name='Musicman20' post='943072' date='Sep 2 2010, 11:07 AM']We are talking over £2100 retail (ok the stores would be quite a bit below this I realise!).[/quote] Import it yourself from the US. A lot cheaper (even including postage & VAT). You can even have it "custom built". Check the prices and options here: [url="http://www.guitarasylum.com/product_pages/gandl/g&l-jb.html"]G&L JB[/url]

[quote]There is a certain 'something' about the black / maple combination...[/quote] It really is. One day I hope to have a 70s Jazz Bass, and a 2-band Stingray just like in the "Three of my best"-thread.

Just wanted to share my two Precisions. The black one is my 99% original '79/'81. Pots, cap, covers and the two screws on the pickup cover are new, the rest of the bass is just as it left the Fullerton plant. The sunburst is a parts bass built to look like a 1958, with a neck from a '57 RI, body from a '70s P-bass and SD Antiquity pickups.

With the Precision's 60th birthday coming up, maybe we can hope that there will be a US made '51 RI? Fingers crossed.

I use some weather stripping tape stuck between the bridge cover and the strings. Great muted sound, and easy to install and remove.

[quote]I have been warming to P-basses again lately but very few Fenders seem to do it for me so possible route here do you think?[/quote] As others have said - take a look at the SB1. I wanted a P-bass to string with roundwounds as an opposite to my '79 P-bass with Pyramid flats and foam. The plan was to get yet another Fender, but after some "research" I realized that what I wanted was an SB-1. It is the natural development of the P-bass. It is what the P-bass would have sounded today if Leo Fender still was in charge of Fender. It is the Arnold Schwarzenegger of P-basses. Warm, punchy with a superhot pickup. For me it was just what the doctor prescribed. It is in all ways the opposite of my P-bass. They both sound like a P-bass (at least in a band setting) but in two very different ways.

Word on the street (well, actually Talkbass) is that what he's selling are cheap Chinese basses, and that there never was a company called Signature. Several threads about it, here's one of them: [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=278561"]talkbass[/url] Edit: And here's the loooong thread I was looking for: [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=554064"]Signature[/url]

Check out studybass.com. It's free.

I wouldn't be too worried about buying from an ebay-seller in Japan as long as they have 100% (or close to 100%) positive feedback. The one that's for sale now (BIN price of $505) will cost you about 500 pounds including VAT and P&P. There's another seller (can't remember his name) that regularly has some really nice Fender Japan basses and guitars for sale, that only charges $25 for shipping to Europe. Last week he had a PB70 for sale, that I nearly bought. But having said that, if you can get an MIA for 650 pounds, I'd rather buy that one. Living in Norway, the MIAs are a lot more, so when I buy basses I import them myself from USA or Japan.

The CIJ 70s turn up on ebay all the time. Don't know if I'm allowed to link to ebay, so you'll have to search for yourself. Right now there is one for sale (secondhand) for $505 (=£350) + shipping. I've seen them cheaper as well.

Sorry. It's the only one I've got. Changed back to the original white, cause the white one looked better with the bridge and pickup covers.

My Candy Apple Red CIJ Jazz with a black scratchplate.

First post here. Been reading the forums for a couple of years, but never felt the need to write something until today. Love the look of your bass. One of my favourite colour combos on a Precision. [quote]I've also warmed again to Pyramid Flats and re-installed these, so its nice 'n slippy to play.[/quote] Based on your choice of bass I suppose you play punk? Just installed a set of Pyramid flats on my 79 Precision because I wanted that 60s thump sound, but a nice side effect was that when I play with a pick I pretty much nails the Simonon-sound. Came as a bit of surprise really. All those years I played punk I never managed to get that warm but still punchy Simonon-sound, now that I've pretty much stopped played punk I got the sound by an "accident". How do you like the Pyramids?