Ghost_Bass

When is the next contest Alex? Maybe for a Super Twelve?!!... Sadly i only encountered this tread today because i too have a Stingray and some expressions to go with it... i could have been a serious candidate for that Midget!... Dammit!


"Bring on the flu... a bass player is always prepared!"


"Who's saying the bass player sucks?"

"The best band photo ever!"


I leave these in advance just in case i miss out a new oportunity

Cheers

I also wouldn't mind a free trial being this the cab i'm aiming for my next rig but i'm not seeing it crossing the big pond for an overnight trial... i'm just gonna have to wait until i finally get the Shuttle 9.0 i'm after and take the plunge on the T'Midget. Hope i won't end up wishing for a Super12 instead... lol

Alex, this is great marketing. Keep those good ideas comming

What about EHX? Have you tried one yet? I replaced the stock valve in my Trace Elliot GP12-X with a EHX 12AX7 and the difference was huge. I'm selling my Trace now to go for a Shuttle 9.0 just because of the height and i'm thinking in keeping the EHX to try it on the Benz. If anyone has tried it i would realy apreciate a coment.

Cheers

I don't know the Wharfedale bass/guitar rigs but my band uses their Wharfedale Pro (red label) PA system (2 2x15"+T on the bottom plus 2 1x15"+T on top) and i haven't found another PA sounding as good as that for an acoustic band. We tried Mackie, EV, JBL,... and i still prefer Wharfedale. Very defined and well balanced. It's been lasting for 5 years now and still working without complaints.

[quote name='WHUFC BASS' post='901668' date='Jul 22 2010, 09:54 AM']Depends what you really want. If you want a bass that looks like a Musicman Stingray and sounds like one, then I'd go for either a SUB or the Sterling Ray34. I've got the Sterling Ray34 and it sounds just like a US Stingray.

If you just like the shape, and want to modify it so as it sounds like something completley different from a Stingray then the Vintage is a really good bet.

To be honest, if its the latter you want to do, then you'll probably end up spending around £300 on the whole thing. If its the former, you'll probably spend about £400.

Bear in mind, that a Sterling Ray will hold its price better than a modified cheaper bass.[/quote]

And if you want a bass sounding close to a stingray at lower cost and without any upgrades i would say to take a look at the Ibanez ATK. Tried one against my stingray5 and the tone is very similar (the SR5 is overall better thought )

I now own a GR and a AW-3. The GR sound is by far batter then the boss but i like the down sweep of the AW. The Boss unit has severeal different effects if you take the time to fiddle with the pedal but i can't seem to find a decent one... maybe i'm just so used to my GR sound that all seems poor to me! The filter in the GR is more musical, smooth and groovy as the AW has lots of high-end peaks and makes your bass sound sparkly (like a guitar)....

So now i have my GR set to up sweep and the AW to down. It's just the way i like, set and forget, lol! Both of them sound pretty cool with an octave (MXR BOD) before in the chain.

I also have one and love it. Every setting i dial in is very musical and usable. I've only tried the EBS IQ before buying the 3leaf and it's a whole diferent world, the IQ it's very hard to find a soft spot with good sound. I'm waiting for a AW-3 i got in a buisiness and i'll post a A-B with the 3leaf but i'm sure it wont replace my GR. I recomend to any one looking for a auto-wah.
I'm curious about the new MXR envelope filter though, anyone has tried both MXR and 3leaf and can post a opinion?

A+++++++++ for this guy. All went well and the bass was exactly (and even better) like the description. He kept his end of the deal on time. The bass arrived safely to Portugal, from UK, packed in a bomb-proof way. I'm very happy with this bass. I definitely recommend this user for any serious business.

SOLD!... And bought! Eh eh.

What a amazing bass. I gigged with it today right out of the box and it was perfect. I just need to lower the action a bit for my taste. A very pleasant transaction. This guy is a serious person and kept his part of the deal perfectly. A++++++++++ feedback for him. (will be left in the proper section)
Thanks for everything Kiron! I'm now a happier bass player cause i finally got the bass i always dreamt with since my first bass player years.
I still can't believe nobody picked this one up and left it sitting here for almost two months till i got my hands on it. Very cheap for a wonderful bass!
Seems like my Stingray5 will be left in his stand for a wile...

Cheers

[quote name='51m0n' post='854741' date='Jun 2 2010, 12:41 PM']Nope, you just couldnt hear the bass then....[/quote]

I'm also looking in to a lightweight rig. My current option would be a Genz-Benz Shuttle 6.0 with a Bergantino AE112 but where i live that kind of gear does't turn up! I'm hoping this thread would be useful to find my rig. Keep posting the stuff you've tried and your impressions.

The only lightweight rig i've tried was a SWR Headlite with Markbass NY (4x6) plus NY (1x12) and it sounded great. Lots of bottom end but not much definition for my taste... needless to say that it is as light as a feather

[quote name='Mog' post='853882' date='Jun 1 2010, 05:56 PM']Sorry, missed the bit about your 100 Fender. If its a Rumble 100 its probably as loud as a 150 watt TE head and 1x15 cab. The Rumble is a serious bit of engineering. Love em to bits. Seen them go toe to toe with two guitar half stacks and ring through without issue. If your still too low I'd reckon jumping to 300 watts minimum power. I run a 150 watt Gp-7 Sm with a 4x10 and its just about right IMO.[/quote]

Remember the fender is 100W but it's cab is 4ohm. The TE has an internal cab at 8ohm and alows a extension... is just putting out near 80W! The full 150W (i thought the combos were 130W and the AH were 150W but i could be wrong...) moves so much air that it could knock the fender to it's back!

[quote name='holio.cornolio' post='853860' date='Jun 1 2010, 05:42 PM']but why not a combo. do they shake themselves apart or is it just a weight thing. I reckon a 2 10 or 1 15 would be manageable for the few gigs I do......[/quote]

I have both a 210 and 115 combos with 300W each. Only stack them to get more quality of the sound and only whith one of the heads working (a GP12-X). this way i get the full 300W in a 4ohm load and my volume can't pass 3.5/10 before walls start to fell... (feelss more like a 600-700W amp!).
TE is buildt like a bunker and as a massive sound. I'm trying to ditch my rig just to get something in the lightweight range. Each combo weights arround 50kg (110pd) and my back are starting to complain... I will allways miss that sound though...

Take a look at the Yamaha RBX375. IMO is the best 5er for the price. A bit over your budget but you could search used basses (maybe a better one crosses your path!).
Good hunt

[quote name='bass_ennyday' post='851046' date='May 29 2010, 12:41 PM']Did you buy it straight at 3Leaf USA or what is the best place in Europe to
buy the Groove Regulator to save shipping/tax/custom fees?[/quote]

I bought from 3Leaf, it was the cheapest option at the time. If you can´t find a used one you'll have to order it from 3Leaf. In their site they have links for distributors but when i bought mine there was only two, one in US and another in Australia if i'm not mistaken... with shipping and customs taxes mine costed 225€... Didn't regret it at the moment but now the new MXR looks like a cheaper and very reliable option...

I haven't tried the MXR env. filter yet but as for the rest i tried and got the MXR Octave Deluxe for octave and a 3Leaf Audio for env filter.

I have a MXR Bass Octave Deluxe and i can get clear tracking down to my B-string as long as i dont try to play superman-fast lines on that string. It's very good. I think the Aguilar is the best octave on the market in the present though. Try them and search for some reviews on U-tube.
Cheers

I have the 3Leaf and i love it. Sounds as good as the youtube clips, no tricks! I would like to try the MXR though... anyone has them both?

[quote name='LawrenceH' post='850351' date='May 28 2010, 02:34 PM']You could maybe fire it up in an arbitrary box with a measurement system, successively doubling the power and letting it equilibrate for a few mins, and look for when thermal compression starts to kick in noticeably - this'd give you a rough and ready idea?[/quote]

I like your idea better than Stylon's . i'm not DIY'ing anything with them for now but i took the opportunity of this thread to take this question of my head. thanks to all

Mail britishaudioservice! They could have used ones stored that they can't sell as new!

Ok, i'll add another question...

Is it possible to know (or at least predict) the power handling (in W) of a driver without having especific machines to measure that? I have two 6" drivers at home that came with a old and brandless speaker (wich is long departed) and all i can know about they is their impedance and measurements. No serial or brand on them whatsoever... Is there any kind of equation to predict it's power handling or is just putting a specific frequency through it and measuring it?

Always tone! Your agility can be worked to suit any bass. If i was a confort-type guy i'd still be playing my first bass, a Maison P-copy!
I have a SR5 and the first month whith it made bang my head on the wall plenty of times regreting buying it but now i can't see myself finding a better neck than that one! It's just simply amazing! So fast and slick! And what a tone!!!
You only need to get used to your gear, no matter your phisical limitations

First the meanings:

1210 - 12=pre GP12, 12 band graph eq ; 10=10" speakers

1215 - 12=pre GP12, 12 band graph eq ; 15=15" speaker

I don't know if both that models have a tweeter but shurely the 1210 has one. The main difference betwen them is that the 15"er has more bottom end as opposite to the 2x10"er who has more top end. If they are from the same series both heads are exactly the same.

Try both and find out wich works best for you

[quote name='Alien' post='847388' date='May 25 2010, 12:18 PM']Better bet would be to put the compressor after the auto wah as the wah effect is controlled by the dynamics of your playing. Putting the compressor first robs some of this, so you don't get as much out of the wah as you could. Same probably applies to the synth as well. Try sticking the compressor at the end of your signal chain, see how that works out.

A[/quote]

You're right, i use my comp in the end of my chain just because of the dynamics and even then i use the EBS to keep them coming out. I don´t like a very noticeble compression, just a limiter with the peak decay. The EBS is very good for that.

[quote name='cheddatom' post='847393' date='May 25 2010, 12:23 PM']I know the lines are blurry, but I thought in general autowah was time based, as opposed to an envelope follower which is dynamics based.

No matter what order you have them in you should be able to achieve "unity gain".

Using a guitar pedal for bass can result in a lack of low end, but wouldn't usually result in a loss of level. There's nothing inherently quieter about guitar pedals.[/quote]

Yep, i didn't explained myself well. The lost of lows you get from a guitar pedal will give you the sensation of volume lost cause you loose a big part of your sound's fundamental. Not realy means it will be lower, just less filling

Probably you are choking your signal with your compressor... check it's settings.
Do as cheddatom told you. Start from the first pedal and level your volume on and off in each pedal. Then try with more than one connected at the same time and repeat the test.
What pedals do you have? Are they true bypass? You could have a big signal eater in your board, the solution would be to replace it or get a signal booster pedal to sit before it. If you have guitar pedals you'll also get some significant singnal lost.