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Ghost_Bass

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Posts posted by Ghost_Bass

    ???&quot

    in Amps and Cabs For Sale

    Posted · Edited by Ghost_Bass

    [quote name='StevieD_FenderP2009' post='1002269' date='Oct 27 2010, 12:08 PM']From what he's saying here, he wants to sell a b2b on the ebay, it's a 2008 model with a 12 or 24 fret board and he wants 1688 HK for it, which is roughly £5.
    He then goes on to say "Please snap this up before I put in on ebay... EBAY... EBAAAAY!"

    There, I translated it for you[/quote]

    You forgot to say his name is Tom! And from what i see i think he needs to start mixing more tobaco so next time it won't get so strong :)

    Hey Tom! I'd like two of those in chrome with blue neons under and a big checkered sticker with RACING written in red words. One of them with a beer cake aplication included! Oh! And castors cause i don't wanna lug this thing arround!

    Cheers

    Most useless feature on an amp

    in Amps and Cabs

    Posted

    [b][size=4][quote]Most useless feature on an amp, Add your own favorites and we could design the most useless amp[/quote][/size][/b]

    I'm still stuck on this... Do you realy want to design an amp everybody will hate??? Or did you confuse [u]useless[/u] with [u]usefull[/u]? :)

    Most useless feature on an amp

    in Amps and Cabs

    Posted

    [quote name='markstuk' post='1000951' date='Oct 26 2010, 11:36 AM']I can bridge my APM-1000 (although only into 8 Ohms) But the whole point is that it is two completely seperate power amps (see pic) and meant for bi-amping (although having two power switches is a little unneccesary)[/quote]

    Not quite unecessary! If you're only using one power amp there's no need to waste energy just to keep the other one nice and warm! :)

    Most useless feature on an amp

    in Amps and Cabs

    Posted · Edited by Ghost_Bass

    I'll be using my own amp to ansewer the question:

    [attachment=62213:front.jpg]

    The signal path is aranged as shown in the front board from left to right.

    There is no need for the two inputs, the gain knob must be kept and the leds indicating the optimal gain level are a nice touch but a single one showing peak would sufice.
    Everything up to the valve drive (just a 12AX7 warmth actualy, no real overdrive) is pointless, the pre of my TRB is all i need for EQ. The valve pre/drive should stay but with an on/off switch.
    The compressor and noise reduction are out - very bad! - and the fx loop should be kept as it is, it has a switch on the back to select series/paralel fx and a blend knob to control the mix of fx with clean signal when in paralel mode. The back panel shows this better:

    [attachment=62211:back.jpg]

    The footswitch should be kept with valve on/off switch, fx on/off, fx series/parallel and mute switches. The signal out and DI are great as they are and the speaker outs should be speakon.
    That's it!

    In short, my dream amp should be: Input -> Gain Stage -> Valve Pre -> Fx Loop -> D.I. -> Power Amp/Master Volume -> Output
    edit: It must have a transparent sound and should be a class-D amp!

    Cheers

    edit 2: The valve should be in a acessible place so you can replace it easily for another without taking the hole thing appart! Probably just a smal lid with one or two screws on the chassis to reach it without taking the entire chassis pannel. I'll keep editing as i remenber more

    shuttle 6.0 or shuttle 9.0

    in Amps and Cabs

    Posted · Edited by Ghost_Bass

    [quote name='Musicman20' post='997344' date='Oct 22 2010, 05:49 PM']To be fair, I've heard of users maxing the 9.0 s master volume AND having the gain setup
    correctly.

    From what I've heard, Genz wattage ratings aren't what we are used to. 900W in their world is about 600W in Markbass terms.[/quote]

    It's the first time i'm hearing about that! But it seems fair, i always had a hard time believing they could put so much power in such a tiny thing...
    I'm coming from a TE and that 300W(ish) at 3,5/10 volume served me well in any kind of big gig. Looks like i won't notice a great increse in volume (in comparison) with the 9.0 but i'm prety shure i'll have a better and more defined tone.

    From your post i've started to give more atention to an old idea: get a Berg AE112 or HT112 to couple with the 9er! I always thought that would be the killer rig - light, with a awesome sound - but i was afraid the 300W of the cab wouldn't be enough to handle the headroom of the 9.0's 500W@8Ohm (and yes, i know i can play any amp with an underpowered cab as long i don't exeed it's limits but in open air gigs i was afraid the Berg would be complaining if i raised the volume just one bit more...) and i would be most likely to harm it in a bigger venue!

    What would you say the 9's maxed output, in terms of sound perception, is when compared to one of the old Traces? Do you tink the Berg would handle it fine in a open air gig (i play with PA, my amp is only my monitor) playing about 3 meters away from it?

    Another cab i'm curious about is the Promethean 1x10", it's the right size and weight but only 250W@8Ohm and may be lacking in the low-end due to it's size. Anybody tried one with a 9er or a 6er? How's the sound?

    Sorry for the off-topic, it's late and i'm too tired to compose a new topic just for this...

    Cheers

    edit: spelling.. but i'm pretty sure there are still alot of them out there hat i can't see!

    shuttle 6.0 or shuttle 9.0

    in Amps and Cabs

    Posted

    [quote name='Musicman20' post='996734' date='Oct 22 2010, 09:45 AM']The 9.0 doesnt just add more bottom, as obviously it adds more headroom, which along with the hi-pass filter adjustment (think thats the right way round) gives you a much larger sound apparently.

    I await to see what Genz release this NAMM. I have seen the two new Uber cabinets, and the Uber Quad (1x12, 2x8, Tweet 600W) looks awesome.

    If the release an amp with two mid controls, or with better control over those filters, ill be getting one. There are rumours about a new amp due this year![/quote]

    They could release some nice cabs to cope with thw 9.0's power. The only one able to handle a maxed out 9.0 is the Uber 410! Some nice NeoX 212"'s with 600W@8Ohms would be highly apreciated!

    The never ending quest for the lowest possible action

    in Bass Guitars

    Posted

    My SR5's action is low, very low. It's almost impossible to play unplugged but when i connect it to an amp all that buzzing goes away and a realy great sound apears! No problems with slap. This is the SR's personality and unique feature!
    My TRB has a tiny bit more action because it's more sensible than the SR5 (due to the piezzo) but it's still very low. In that bass any buzzing will come out on the amp so this one is setup so it has a clean sound when played unplugged. It's my main bass and the one i use for home practise (like Clarky i play with the bass disconnected).

    I can't play a high action, i'm a light handed player and i find that having low actions gets your playing easier. It's just a question of finding the sweet spot for each bass. I don't know the height of my actions nor i guide myself for any when i'm setuping my basses, i just go for what feels right for it and for me.
    I take down the underpowered amp theory, i played only with a TE Boxer 15W for the first 5 years of my bass playing life and i'm realy very light-handed!

    I think it's plausible to admit that light-handed fingerstyle players go for a fairly low actions as diggers with/out pick need a very high action to achieve the best tone possible.
    In the end it's all a mather of taste and personal preference (like buying a new set of strings) :)

    Ibanez IBZ3

    in Repairs and Technical

    Posted

    Hi, just did what you sugested and here are my findings. I ask you just one last help to confirm my values and sugest the best option.

    [quote name='Alien' post='989538' date='Oct 15 2010, 06:42 PM']Check the voltage rating of the 2 large capacitors on the PCB. If you aim for a transformer voltage of around 2/3 to 3/4 of this value then you'll be in the right ballpark.[/quote]

    Each cap has 25V, so i'll be aiming for something betwen 16.6V and 18.75V. I don't realy know the voltages available in the market. Would a 16V be enough or should i look for something with 18V?

    [quote name='Alien' post='989538' date='Oct 15 2010, 06:42 PM']You'll need a transformer with a dual secondary coil, which will usually be listed as +/- ##Volts or 2x##Volts.[/quote]

    I know what those are, just one doubt - is there a specific order to connect the two red wires (shown in the picture in the 1st post) or they can be connected any way - i supose the black is ground and has to be left in the middle position!

    [quote name='Alien' post='989538' date='Oct 15 2010, 06:42 PM']Check the maximum power requirement on the back of the amp, and make sure the power rating of the transformer is the same as that or a bit more.[/quote]

    Done that! It's 250mA.

    [quote name='Alien' post='989538' date='Oct 15 2010, 06:42 PM']It's not a perfect solution, but if the transformer's blown and you can't get a schematic it's about the best you can do.

    HTH

    A[/quote]

    Your explanation is the best help i had in a couple of weeks of searching. Mailed Ibanez and they simply confirmed my "love" for that make not ansewering me! Great customer service!...

    If from what i've posted here if you can advise me a suitable transformer i'll be much apreciated. From what i've learned from you i'm looking for something like:

    +/-16V with 0.25A(min) or +/-18V with 0.25A(min)

    Do i have this right?

    Thanks :)

    Ibanez IBZ3

    in Repairs and Technical

    Posted · Edited by Ghost_Bass

    Hi

    I have this guitar amp with a blown transformer for a few years and now i would like to fix it to lend it to a starting guitarist.
    Can someone please tell me what voltage i should choose when buying a new one (230V in, how much out?)? There are three wires coming out of the transformer into the PCB.
    Some very nasty pics, if needed i can take close ups of any part with a better camera if you need but not until monday when i'll get it again:
    [attachment=61440:PICT0880.JPG]
    [attachment=61441:PICT0881.JPG]
    [attachment=61442:PICT0882.JPG]
    [attachment=61443:PICT0883.JPG]

    I cuted the brown and dark blue wires going into the back of the transformer to take it out and get it into a electronic store but they didn't know wich voltage it was to give me a replacement. It's a 24W amp.

    Thanks in advance!

    What cab to go with a Shuttle 9.0

    in Amps and Cabs

    Posted

    New developments: I just got the opportunity to get a local GK Neo 212-II at a very reasonable price (don't know the exchange rate but around £350, new with 2-year waranty):

    Features:
    Impedance: 8 ohms
    Power rating: 600 Watts
    Woofer: 2xGK-Paragon 12B300-16, Cast Frame, 12",
    300W, 16 ohm Neodymium
    Tweeter: GK-Paragon 5H50-8
    Frequency responce: 36Hz to 19 kHz + 5dB Sensitivity: 105dB
    Cross over: HMS Bi-Amp/Full Range Switch, Horn
    Power Limiter, L-Pad High Frequency Attenuator
    Connectors: 1xHMS Compatible Bi-Amp/Full Range
    Speakon, 1x1/4" (Full Range Only)
    Construction: 11-Ply Poplar, Black Tolex, 16 Gauge
    Steel Grill, Removable Nickel Plated Castors,
    Custom Tooled Interlocking Corner System and Front Ported
    weight: 64 lbs
    Dimension: 20.8"W x 25.8"H x 16"D

    [url="http://www.musicstore.de/en_EN/GBP/Basses/Bass-amps-cabinets/Gallien-Krueger-Neo-212-Cabinet-/art-BAS0001868-000"]Musicstore link[/url]

    Can i get some opinions from you?
    This looks like a cab that'll work for me in two ways, it'll let me know if the 500W@8ohms from the 9.0 are more than enough for my every gig needs and at the same time i'll find out if the 2x12" configuration and respective weight/size are portable enough for me. Knowing this i'll be able to choose more wisely if i'll go for Alex's Midget T or Supertwelve T and also have more time to gather some more funds as it would give me enough quality to gig for a few weeks.
    For the price i'm getting it it'll be easy to sell it without much value lost.
    As for the sound i can't try it because it has to be ordered but i've been reading some very good reviews on the web. Any input here would be much appreciated.

    I'm not so shure on what model this cab is... i've seen 3 kinds of pictures on the net for the Neo 212's and the difference is in the logo, my shearchs returned the picture above (the same in GK's site) and these:


    The store selling it clearly says it's a GK Neo 212-II, so would be the one on the first picture!!?

    Anybody knows the difference?

    Cheers

    Trace elliot

    in Amps and Cabs

    Posted

    Trace is loud... very loud!

    I hope i'm not mistaken but when Trace says a amp is rated at 300W they mean that in every frequency on it's range you'll have at least 300W of power available. Being some freq's "louder" (can´t realy explain this better... lacking some technical knowledge...) than others you'll end up with much more volume than the 300W rate sugests. Other makes (not all, obviously) rate their gear at a medium figure or at it's maximum (low-end gear), that's why everybody who's ever played Trace gear says they're louder than "everything" else!

    Fodera 2010 price list

    in Bass Guitars

    Posted

    Just trying to get back on the topic:

    I've had a wonderfull afternoon at a friend's house where i could try one of the biggest collections i know (don't know that many). The basses i've had the opportunity to try were a Fodera Emperor Deluxe, 3 Ken Smith BT's 4 and 5 string, 2 kubicki factor 4 and 5 string, Alembic Elan 5 and several weaker basses (read Fender, Musicman, Warwick,...).
    From all the one with the best sound (more defined and accurate with the best tonal balance (bass/mid/high) ) and best finish to the bass itself was by far the Ken Smith. The Fodera just sounded too sterile played after the K.S. Even the Kubicki, in it's own unique way, had more sounds capable to put a smile in your face. I thought the Alembic was in the same overall level has the Fodera. Now start doing the pricing math!
    Too bad it wasn't there any Sadowsky to add to the trial...
    A few days latter i recieved my Yamaha TRB-5PII i got from a fellow BCer. I've tried it against the K.S. and the Smith still sounded nicer but against the Fodera my honest opinion (very imparcial, as you can imagine :lol: ) was that my TRB sounded better! More tonal control, less weight, better finish, faster and comfy neck...


    Summing up, until i've tried one i thought Fodera were the top-end of basses that i dream one day having but having compared a 12k (or around) bass to my used 900£ (about 2k new? realy don't know for how much they go over there, on UK) bass i'm now a very happy man :). All that Fodera GAS was diverted to a nem one: Ken Smith GAS!

    Just my opinion! Everyone is intitled to their's.

    Cheers

    what envelope filter? qtron?

    in Effects

    Posted

    [quote name='phil.i.stein' post='968370' date='Sep 26 2010, 02:16 PM']found this on tb, thought it was a good way of comparing, without downloading a bunch of individual soundlips.

    i like the mod on the GR, might consider getting this done, ....Max ? :)



    edit : mod - wise apparently the GR2 does this..[/quote]

    I thought about moding mine too after seing the new GR models on the site. Anybody knows what mod is this and any info/specs/tutorial for it? I think it's only a blend knob inserted instead of the feedback switch...?!

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