2x10 Build - couple of questions and driver recommendations?

[doninphi]

Hi folks. I've been making bass cabs up. I've made a 1x15" so far with a Celestion BN15-300X - a little trial and error on the dampening inside and 3d printing my own ports to tune it. So far I'm really happy with it.

 

I've started and made the cab for a 2x10 too. But got nervous before ordering the planned 2x BN10-200X to match the other cab sound wise (as I feel happy with the clear tone I like of the BN15.)

 

So the cab details:

MDF 14mm (then clad in recycled pallet wood 8mm thick, so they look cool and rustic (I'll link a pic)

External box sizes:

56.5h

45w

36d

 

2 x 10 BN10-200x 8ohm, but happy to take other ideas on this. But their details:

10"

7.7cm mounting depth

3.5cm magnet depth

 

The cab calculates as an internal cu/ft of: 2.5314

 

I haven't cut ports yet, but can drill and 3d print to suit. I rear ported last time and plan to do the same. 

 

Pic is my 1x15 with the 2x10 cab on top. I hope you like them  

Bass is my quick pick up Washburn, my 5st Sire M7 is in another room. So  the cab needs to be tuned to handle the low B  

 

Thoughts greatly appreciated. 

Thanks

Phil

 

Edit: Oh and forgot to add, I'll be making it up as a series/parallel setup, via a cable, to make the pair 8ohm overall to work with my mini Warwick Head. Tho if I like playing one at practice and the other cab at home, I might re-wire to a different setup. For now though, I'd like to try both at once. Although I know people say 1x15 and 2x10 or 4x10 can cause odd waveforms. I'm happy to experience it and see before I settle on using 1, or both cabs.  I also love the head, and might upgrade to the 600w Warwick one at some point. 

 

Edited 2 hours ago by doninphi

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

What software are you using to come up with the design? And what criteria to choose the drivers? For simple ported or sealed cabs I use WinISD 0.7.  I consider not only frequency response but also sensitivity, maximum power (determined by Pe and Xmax, whichever is lower), and port velocity (no more than 20m/s at full power within the nominal passband). I choose drivers based on their cost effectiveness while producing the desired results. Also note that software is only effective within the region of pure pistonic function, which is roughly two octaves above Fs. Above that you must use the driver data sheet SPL chart. And that only gives you the raw numbers. Turning those into a cabinet design relies mainly on experience to know what works best. 

 

As for mixing drivers, it's like a box of chocolates: you never know what you're going to get. Sticking with one insures that you will know. I ignore when people say that 'this 115 and that 410 work a treat', because virtually any two speakers together will work better than either on their own. The only way to know if any given pair of mismatched cabs/drivers work better than two of each matched is to try all three combinations side by side. That's fine if you have two of each, but if you don't it's an experiment you can't undertake. 

 

Don't sweat tuning for the low B note. While the fundamental is 31 Hz the bulk of the content is in the 2nd and 3rd harmonics, 62 and 93 Hz. No one ever complained about an Ampeg Fridge handling low B, and its F3 is 58 Hz. I never tune bass cabs lower than 45 Hz. I only go lower than that for PA subs. 

Edited 1 hour ago by Bill Fitzmaurice

[doninphi]

17 minutes ago, Bill Fitzmaurice said:

What software are you using to come up with the design? And what criteria to choose the drivers? For simple ported or sealed cabs I use WinISD 0.7.  I consider not only frequency response but also sensitivity, maximum power (determined by Pe and Xmax, whichever is lower), and port velocity (no more than 20m/s at full power within the nominal passband). I choose drivers based on their cost effectiveness while producing the desired results. Also note that software is only effective within the region of pure pistonic function, which is roughly two octaves above Fs. Above that you must use the driver data sheet SPL chart. And that only gives you the raw numbers. Turning those into a cabinet design relies mainly on experience to know what works best. 

 

As for mixing drivers, it's like a box of chocolates: you never know what you're going to get. Sticking with one insures that you will know. I ignore when people say that 'this 115 and that 410 work a treat', because virtually any two speakers together will work better than either on their own. The only way to know if any given pair of mismatched cabs/drivers work better than two of each matched is to try all three combinations side by side. That's fine if you have two of each, but if you don't it's an experiment you can't undertake. 

 

Don't sweat tuning for the low B note. While the fundamental is 31 Hz the bulk of the content is in the 2nd and 3rd harmonics, 62 and 93 Hz. No one ever complained about an Ampeg Fridge handling low B, and its F3 is 58 Hz. I never tune bass cabs lower than 45 Hz. I only go lower than that for PA subs. 

 

Hi mate. Thanks for the reply. 

 

To make the first 1x15 I chose the driver and used Internet calculators to make the cab basing it off a mark bass 1x15. As it was compact etc... The Internet calculators are OK for basic stuff.

 

For this one I tried again to do the same but although I got some bits out I cant help thinking they aren't as good for 2 x speaker cabs where the details of a 1xspeaker cab numbers go into them well.  The 1x15 is proof of that pudding as I'm happy with it but can't help thinking my luck might run out in the 2x10

 

Is there any chance you can pop my numbers into your software? I can't install that as it's a work laptop. See if you thjnk 2x bn10 200x 8 ohm will suit or if i need to hunt a different spec speaker? I'd really appreciate it. 

 

If I have to take the punt. I will haha. 

 

A 70ltr volume should be OK. I'll just mess with the port ideas till it sounds right. But your input might save me a lot of faff. 

 

Thanks

Phil