neepheid Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 I bought a DeArmond Starfire a while back from tayste_2000 who in turn got it from EssentialTension. It had a few things wrong with it - these are outlined in ET's original for sale thread: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=31912&hl=starfire"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...amp;hl=starfire[/url] Well, it took a while (a small family problem, now resolved) but it finally got here this weekend. I'm pleased to report that the easiest problem is fixed - the wonky knobs. ET reckoned they were glued on. I bloody hoped not, as one of the tone pots was loose. I managed to remove the knobs by sliding the folded over edge of an old T-shirt under the edge of the knob and pulling up on it. They were damned hard to shift but I got them removed eventually. Once I tightened up the nuts on all the pots, I squeezed the split shafts slightly with a pair of pliers to make putting the knobs back on a little easier. It was still bloody hard work. But they're all tightened up and on straight. My attention turns to the more perplexing problem, the crack between the fingerboard and the neck from frets 2-4ish. I am going to attempt to get some glue in the crack using a syringe then clamping it down to hell. I don't see fixing the dings next to the bridge as being a priority. A drop fill of lacquer might smooth it out. Now to find some suitable syringes and needles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henry norton Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Have you checked how it plays yet? Especially around the cracked area. If it plays well you might want to think twice before subjecting a localised part of the neck to clamping pressures as it could end up giving the neck an unnatural warp. If it plays badly then I guess you've got nothing to lose. Can you post some pictures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neepheid Posted June 9, 2009 Author Share Posted June 9, 2009 [quote name='henry norton' post='508941' date='Jun 9 2009, 12:20 PM']Have you checked how it plays yet? Especially around the cracked area. If it plays well you might want to think twice before subjecting a localised part of the neck to clamping pressures as it could end up giving the neck an unnatural warp. If it plays badly then I guess you've got nothing to lose. Can you post some pictures?[/quote] It plays well enough, but it's come away all the way across, you can shine light through the gap. It's not a huge crack, >1mm thick, but I'd prefer it closed. I've had a test clamp and the gap does close up under pressure. I don't think a difference in height of >1mm is going to introduce any weirdness into the neck. A piece of finished wood about 3mm x 15mm has come away, so that will facilitate access to the crack, could even make a small drill hole to get the glue in and then glue the piece of wood on top to cover the hole. I haven't got any pics of my own, there are some in the for sale thread I linked to above. Will try and get some pics of my own tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henry norton Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Yeah, I looked at the original pics - looks like a nice patina on it as it goes! A syringe is a good way to go to introduce the glue, drilling holes can introduce debris into the crack and make it harder to clamp it. When you clamp it up, use a big, thick block of wood on the fingerboard to keep the neck flat and spread the clamping force. And....... may the force be with you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neepheid Posted June 20, 2009 Author Share Posted June 20, 2009 I got some syringes and needles. Amazingly I managed to squeeze glue through a 25 gauge needle, it takes a fair while of sustained pressure on the plunger, but it eventually comes out. I got the needle in the gap in a couple of places in each side of the neck and squished glue in until I saw glue at the crack. Then I clamped it to hell. A fair bit squished out, so I was confident that I had got enough in there. Well, the clamps came off tonight and the gap did not reopen. I reglued on the nut which had come off, strung her up and it's still holding firm. All that I'm waiting for now is the glue to dry on the small sliver of finished neck wood which came off (handily giving me easy access to the crack). I'll try and tidy up the cracks in the finish and then we should be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neepheid Posted June 20, 2009 Author Share Posted June 20, 2009 And after a little tidying up (600 > 1000 > 1500 grit sanding then some safe cut), this is it: It was never going to be invisible, but the gap is closed and it is smooth to the touch. I'm happy enough with the results, being as it is a fixup rather than a complete solution (which I guess would involve some refinishing work). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neepheid Posted June 20, 2009 Author Share Posted June 20, 2009 Oh, to save you looking back, here is the photo of the original problem: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EssentialTension Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 Nice work Matt. I'm wishing I still had it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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