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Advice re using router


planethead
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[quote name='planethead' post='321849' date='Nov 4 2008, 03:01 PM']Afternoon all

struggling to get to grips with my new router - is a small router table a worthwhile investment?

ttfn[/quote]

To be honest, I'm getting along fine with a Workmate and clamps. Using a combination of templates, straight edge guides, roller bits and guide bushes.

If only mine had a greater plunge depth - I have to borrow my dad's to use roller bits (with the roller at the top of the cutter).

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There's not a lot you can't do without one - I've been a cabinet maker for 30 years and hardly ever resort to a router table or spindle moulder.

It's worth remembering that while you have both hands holding the router you're much less likely to get your fingers near the cutter.

Having said that - if you do decide to get a table, go for the best you can afford (accuracy is everything). And be careful.

Good luck - are you doing guitar work?

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I was trying to angle the edge of a replacement scratchplate for the nedster (build diary) - the router has a template 'plate' which screws into the base but leaves a gap so the cutter doesn't reach the sp - I thought it might be easier to do these fiddly jobs with a table presenting the work to the bit - I find the router a bit unwieldy.

If I can get the hang of it I'll be routing at least two body blanks ,edges and voids, in the future (probably mahogany for a long scale version of the Ned Callan and obeche for a Hayman 4040 - all very English!

ttfn

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Get hold of a catalogue from Wealden Tool Company (www.wealdentool.com) where you will find all manner of router cutters with bearings above or below the cutter, also laminate trimmers. Then if you make a template the size you want (body blank, pickup hole, neckpocket, scratchplate or whatever) fix it to the thing you are shaping with clamps or double sided tape. The cutter bearing follows the template while the cutter itself shapes the material to match, with a straight cut, round over, bevel etc.

For body blanks there is a long (50mm)cutter with bearings top and bottom which means you can fix your template to one side of your blank (cut almost to size) and cut downhill with the grain simply by turning the whole thing over and using the top or bottom bearing depending on whether the template is now above or below the workpiece.

Good luck. Hope this helps a little

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Make sure nothing is loose on the router and in the workspace before you start. A stray bolt destroyed a straight cutter on mine the other day... Fortunately it wasn't the round-over bit or I'd've been snookered for finishing the edges on the cab.

A table isn't really necessary, as people have said you can get good results with a workmate + clamps and just take your time. Cutters with bearings on are extremely useful :)

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[quote name='planethead' post='322215' date='Nov 4 2008, 09:16 PM']thanks for all the above. will keep you posted on progress.


Just found this useful (I hope?) tutorial:
[url="http://www.accesswave.ca/~derekn/routertutorial/"]http://www.accesswave.ca/~derekn/routertutorial/[/url]


ttfn[/quote]

Thanks for this, really useful!

NB Bought myself a cheap table, have to see how I'll get on!

Edited by yorks5stringer
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