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Compact short scale build


3below
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[quote name='3below' timestamp='1474487838' post='3138402']
Small steps onwards. Headstock shaped and showing very approximate position of machine heads (stuck on with blu tack).



The design will work with straight string pull, it is an amalgamation of two basses in my possession. As always after the event I can see minor details that I would do differently next time. The upper 'A' string oak strip should be a bit larger, in keeping with 'd' string piece. However next time I would stick to 5 laminations and not put the extra stripes on headstock (another miscalculation). It is as if I have to make mistakes in order to fix them and the underlying issues in my mind and thus prevent next time. This might be due to needing to do more woodwork :)
[/quote]
We all see the tiny stuff on our build that is usually invisible to all others. Case in point, can't even see your concerns when you tell me what I should be looking for. Looks brilliant! :)

Those laminations are extremely well done....

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Thanks again for kind words :). Next mission, being a 'cheapskate' I am going to build a radiusing jig to route concave fingerboard sanding blocks. A one off at £20 ish is ok, if I build other radius fingerboards it is not tenable. Have to consume all this oak strip flooring I have :mellow:

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[quote name='3below' timestamp='1474570483' post='3138937']
Thanks again for kind words :). Next mission, being a 'cheapskate' I am going to build a radiusing jig to route concave fingerboard sanding blocks. A one off at £20 ish is ok, if I build other radius fingerboards it is not tenable. Have to consume all this oak strip flooring I have :mellow:
[/quote]

[url="http://www.stewmac.com/SiteSearch/?search=radius%20block"]These[/url] any good?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Slow progress, the day job uses time up. Tidied up the 'bad router day' issues. Sliced up various bits of mahogany into 2 / 3mm slices, bandsaw and file to fit the divots. Epoxied in and then routed flat. Started on the bridge, ebony slab planed and chamfered. String holes carefully measured and subsequently drilled. Today's lesson is - if you need reading glasses for close work, you should wear them. I got the measurements and hole locations spot on, not quite that good using the pillar drill making the holes. I should be able to 'lose' the slight misalignment issue. Next up, routing the 3mm bridge slot, have had several trials on this, still not really happy with the quality of what I can attain.

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[quote name='3below' timestamp='1475955505' post='3150113']
Slow progress, the day job uses time up. Tidied up the 'bad router day' issues. Sliced up various bits of mahogany into 2 / 3mm slices, bandsaw and file to fit the divots. Epoxied in and then routed flat. Started on the bridge, ebony slab planed and chamfered. String holes carefully measured and subsequently drilled. Today's lesson is - if you need reading glasses for close work, you should wear them. I got the measurements and hole locations spot on, not quite that good using the pillar drill making the holes. I should be able to 'lose' the slight misalignment issue. Next up, routing the 3mm bridge slot, have had several trials on this, still not really happy with the quality of what I can attain.
[/quote]
Any photos, 3below?

Don't worry too much about slow progress. Every part of a bit of a job done is a part of a bit closer to finishing :)

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Pictures show various divots infilled with mahogany and epoxy. Somehow very satisfying about shaping them to fit nicely. The small yellow blemish shown in earlier pictures developed into a substantial sized lump of well dried resin when it was exposed in a further router pass. Jack socket hole and wiring channel also sorted. Body is now ready to have the oak top glued on. The bridge, hmmm, I am not impressed with my workmanship here (as presented it is a long way from finished). The string holes do not align, I should have bolted a stop on the pillar drill table (and worn my reading glasses). The 3mm bridge saddle channel has a couple of router divots (the lighter grey parts in photo). I will attempt to sort these with ebony dust and epoxy. I may well have another go at a bridge, the ebony works out at about £2.50 for the bridge so no great loss. I now understand how I can make a better mk2 jig for this job.











Edited by 3below
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"Pictures show various divots infilled with mahogany and epoxy. Somehow very satisfying about shaping them to fit nicely."

Can't speak as a luthier, but I find damage limitation is often one of the most challenging and rewarding aspects of my diy projects. I can see how it must be even more rewarding to always get everything right first time though!

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[quote name='3below' timestamp='1476049244' post='3150891']
What I have found strange in this build is my obvious mistakes. All have been foreseeable but have still happened. I am working on getting it right 2nd time :) as I regain long lost skills.
[/quote]
I find that with the more builds I do, I don't necessarily reduce the number of silly and foreseeable mistakes as much as I simply get better at fixing them afterwards ;)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Another small step, self explanatory. Home made bobbin clamps worked well. Yet another silly error :) I had remembered that I must put a drawstring in to ease later wiring. Got the string and sorted to fit etc. Proceeded to glue top on and noticed I had not put the string in.



Marks on the oak top are just water from sponge used to clean up glue squeeze-out.

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Onwards progress and another unforced error :)










Body sides routed to template using the 2" down spiral bit (a 'serious' cutter). Only one small tear out (my fault whilst waiting for the router to spin down ). I was able to lose it with a bit of judicious template adjustment. Round over on the top went well apart from some cutter scorch marks. Will try slower router speed next time however I have had this problem with Oak before even at slowest speed. Round Over on the back went well until I forgot to stop at the jack socket hole (which I had thought about and planned to hand profile similar to where the binding ends on the unmentionable 4001 bass). Needless to say the roundover bit wandered into the hole. Repair section let in which should hide reasonably well when I stain the body 'dark brown'. Body now sanded to 180, sides all level with router ripples removed. Time to get my new toy out, Veritas cabinet scraper and remove the planer - thicknesser ripples.

So many things I will do differently on the next incarnation.

Edited by 3below
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  • 2 weeks later...

Fair progress with good technique today. Only one design blunder that I would do differently next time.



Tried 3 times with this photo, poor quality image :(




Neck pocket is super fit, better than anything USA made that I currently own :) Time well spent on constructing template and much improved router skills. I pondered leaving the pocket in old Fender style, i.e. loosen neck to access truss rod. Decided not to, ho hum :( hence the design error, truss rod adjusting rout way too big for what is required.



Looking like a bass now. design error now stylishly covered, totally intentional.




Laminations, set square and careful centre line measurement get the machine heads in line. Extra care taken with drilling following Andy's helpful lead in this aspect :) Choices now, traditional machine head layout or W style?





Finally the moment of truth, string alignment with bridge. Have my measurements, centre line and 'skill' produced something that aligns correctly?




Amazingly the answer is yes :)

Edited by 3below
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[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1478378054' post='3168776']
That's looking really nice :)
[/quote]

Thank you :) Thinking about finishes, which you did reply to previously on your EB3 type build. I am aiming for brown (like your LP Junior) - Chestnut brown mahogany spirit dye?

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