rk7 Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 After much deliberation, and head-scratching (its ok, the shampoo cured it) I've decided its time to build a pedalboard. I'm not a huge effects user, in fact I'm not even huge, but there are a couple of 'floating' items that come into play when I gig - my StageClix wireless thingmabob and TC Electronic RC4 footswitch. I'm waiting for the release of the Aurora amp from Marc Vanderkley, so I'll need a standalone tuner. I decided to knock up a board for these items. I liberated some lovely Walnut from an associate, so the game is on! Anyway, my hands are sore from all this typing, and my comedy-joinery, so it must be time for a picture or two, [IMG]http://i61.tinypic.com/wb8e3c.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/10gb9yo.jpg[/IMG] And so it begins, RK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk7 Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 I bought a router table top from fleabay some time ago, and it needed a support frame so I didn't have to lie down to use it. I decided this would be a good project to hone my under developed joinery skills on, prior to starting the pedalboard build. There is also a nice shiny new router mounted under the table, another fleabay bargain! I inherited a router from my dad, but it hated me, and wanted to cut my hands off. I was terrified of it, really. This new one adjusts from above the table, and is self-locking when wound to its maximum height, allowing easy bit changes. Very cool. I also had a trolley-dash at the local B&Q, where I got some white contiboard, and made the fence system for the table. Ignore the board on the workmate, I havn't made that yet, obviously. [IMG]http://i62.tinypic.com/2hdtug7.jpg[/IMG] So, armed with a router table, a flush cutting bit, a straightedge, and some Blue Peter double-sided tape, I cut the front, back and sides of the board. [IMG]http://i57.tinypic.com/10e4g1w.jpg[/IMG] As will be clear from the second pic, I am a huge fan of Salvage Custom Shop pedalboards, and have decided to model mine along the same lines. I researched the optimum angle for the board to sit at. Apparently this is around 7 degrees, so that's what I've gone for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk7 Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 For the corners of the box, I deliberated between dovetails and box/finger/comb joints, and eventually decided to go with the latter, which shall henceforth be known as BFC (box/finger/comb) joints. Having made this momentous decision, it was back to fleabay where I was lucky enough to win an auction for an Axminster BFC jig to do 6, 10 or 12mm joints. This jig is no longer on the market, so I definitely caught a break by winning that auction. Chucked the jig on the router table, chucked the walnut in the jig, and this came out! [IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/fbcdg1.jpg[/IMG] Yes, the top finger is thin, but this will get planed off in a later episode when the angle of the top face is created. Did a few more corners, bish bash bosh, and I've got me a box, woop. [IMG]http://i59.tinypic.com/242itfp.jpg[/IMG] In truth, this bit was also quite scary. My choice of 6mm fingers on the BFC joints meant that there was a fair risk of chipping the fingers, or having them break off. The fingers were actually really tight as they came out of the jig, so each needed to be finished by hand, with fine sandpaper. I'm really pleased with the final results though. The walnut grain pattern is really nice, and it also has a small amount of flame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk7 Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 It is becoming clear, as this project develops, that the whole thing about effects pedals is a bit like planting Rhubarb in the garden - it starts to grow, then you can't stop it, and you never get rid of it! I had mentioned the need for a tuner, so I bought (fleabay again) a TC Polytune. I was keen to always be sure of my clean signal so I bought a Wee Lush Sooper Loooper, which will allow my StageClix to go straight to the output jack socket of the board, or will bring in the effects loop as required. Brilliant little box of tricks! I then, on impulse really, decided it would be nice to have a chorus pedal, so up jumped a Corona from TC Electronic. Well, from fleabay actually, but you know what I mean. So the layout now goes a little something like this: [IMG]http://i62.tinypic.com/2912tmb.jpg[/IMG] I've also left space for one more pedal, hopefully a Talent Booster, if I can find one (tee hee), but more likely a sustainer pedal of some sort. The Electroharmonix Freeze looks favourite at the moment. I've decided on simple round holes for the cable routes to the top of the board, and a nice way of finishing these holes off when Angie (Mrs RK7) has fitted the cloth to the top of the board, but I'll explain that with a photo when it is done later. Press on rewardless! Rk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk7 Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 The connections to/from the board will all be on the left side. I play in a three-piece Blues band, and I'm always on the left, so if the wiring is on the left, it is well out of the way when I'm doing my stage acrobatics. I may have made that last bit up, but having the wiring on the left makes good sense anyway. I also bought a 10m IEC (kettle) lead, to avoid the need for a bulky 4-way extension block in the vicinity of my feet. There's a lot of thought going into this! [IMG]http://i57.tinypic.com/nl3fbl.jpg[/IMG] In this pic: Black cloth for the top and base of the board Carrying handle 10m kettle lead Rubber feet Power supply Cables for power supply Current doubler lead (green) for the Flashback X4 (which uses a lot of currants - so needs two outputs from the power supply) Combined IEC (kettle) socket, Mains on/off Switch and fuse. Locking Jack Socket for lead to Amp 5 pin DIN socket for RC4 TC footswitch Locking Jack Socket for Tuner lead from new Amp. Lava Cable pedalboard kit (because the jack plugs are tiny, and therefore less space is wasted between pedals) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassBus Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Comedy joinery? Looks like seriously good jointing to me. Impressive stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk7 Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 Right, back to the man-cave for some more woodwork! [IMG]http://i60.tinypic.com/v63vhc.jpg[/IMG] starting to glue up the corner joints [IMG]http://i60.tinypic.com/30d7yud.jpg[/IMG] Corner joints flush-cut, and sanded. Outer edges of the box now rounded over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 [quote name='BassBus' timestamp='1396865079' post='2418011'] Comedy joinery? Looks like seriously good jointing to me. Impressive stuff. [/quote] + millions Looks really nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk7 Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 [quote name='BassBus' timestamp='1396865079' post='2418011'] Comedy joinery? Looks like seriously good jointing to me. Impressive stuff. [/quote] Thank you! Our mutual friend Martin will be watching this bit with a critical eye, ha ha. I was lucky, my first time attempt went ok. The walnut is lovely to work with though. And a wipe with a damp cloth shows what the grain will be like. Must take a photo of that actually. thanks again, more instalments to follow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk7 Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 [quote name='Si600' timestamp='1396866402' post='2418043'] + millions Looks really nice. [/quote] Wow, thanks man. I'm hoping the rest of the build goes as well as the BFC jointing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk7 Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 The pedalboard box will have an MDF subframe inside it. The walnut I'm using is 10mm thick, and the MDF will be 12mm. This will provide a mounting surface for the pedal board and the base. It will also provide stability for the (relatively) thin walnut. Right, better get on and make the subframe then! [IMG]http://i60.tinypic.com/2nlcy8g.jpg[/IMG] Boom! And it's done! Well, actually, it took a fair while to work out the measurements, allowing a 12mm rebate on the upper and lower surfaces. Also, the top and bottom subframe elements, where the pedalboard sits, have to be planed at an angle (the pedalboard itself when viewed from the side, is a parallelogram shape, I think). I need a photo to illustrate this. I'm rambling, I may have MDF poisoning? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassBus Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 This is going to be the best pedal board.........in the world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myke Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Looking good and fun to read too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horizontalste Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 The board looks great, but I can't get past the craftsmanship in your workbench. Seriously man cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk7 Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 [quote name='Horizontalste' timestamp='1396882972' post='2418343'] The board looks great, but I can't get past the craftsmanship in your workbench. Seriously man cool. [/quote] Thanks Ste! Workbench? Do you mean the router table? The bench is bought, reclaimed timber. Actually, the man-cave is a disgrace at the moment. Dust everywhere. It needs a good clean out. I've told Angie it must be some of that Sahara dust that is blowing around at the moment, but I don't think I got away with that one. heh heh RK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk7 Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 I rambled earlier about shaping the top and bottom edges of the lid, and the support frame, to account for an angled lid on a square box. Hopefully this photo will explain better than I: [IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/2qu4zk0.jpg[/IMG] Notice the angled edges on the left and right sides of the lid. RK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainhaddock Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Very nice!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk7 Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 Right, time to cut the holes for the Mains switch, and the jack sockets. I was nervous about this step, probably because most of the woodwork is now done, and a mistake at this point would be bad, very bad. I made a copy of the MDF side of the subframe, then cut the necessary holes in it: [IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/71sqs5.jpg[/IMG] Then onto the router table to flush-cut the walnut to match the template: [IMG]http://i60.tinypic.com/zyaohc.jpg[/IMG] All done! (phew). Sorry this photo is rubbish, will do another tomorrow. [IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/10n6u6g.jpg[/IMG] Also, wiped the wood with a damp rag for this photo, show the walnut off! tee hee. Will be fitting the Handle tomorrow, then on to final sanding/finishing. RK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk7 Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 [quote name='captainhaddock' timestamp='1396901060' post='2418619'] Very nice!!!!! [/quote] Thanks Captain! This is playtime compared to your 8-string build. RK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horizontalste Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Looks ace, don't forget to post a picture with the pedals on :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk7 Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 (edited) Todays activities: Angie has fitted the cloth to the base and the lid of the pedalboard. The cableways are 10mm 'slices' of black plastic electrical conduit. When the cloth is folded into the holes in the lid, Angie pushed the plastic rings into place and it nicely finishes off the cableway (I think). Also, you can just see in the photo, there is a small raised section (3mm hardboard fixed with glue and headless nails) that the StageClix sits on. This is fitted because the main body of the StageClix is slightly raised above the board. The extra hardboard section acts as a platform so the Velcro makes good contact with the cloth. Here's the lid: [IMG]http://i61.tinypic.com/14il6io.jpg[/IMG] And with a few pedals! [IMG]http://i57.tinypic.com/149p0kh.jpg[/IMG] I've also now fixed the inner frame in place, and put the feet on the pedalboard. Next will be lots of final sanding, spraying the walnut with nitro, fitting the power supply and wiring everything up! RK Edited April 8, 2014 by rk7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myke Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Are you going to make a lid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk7 Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 A lid? What for? RK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myke Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 For the board so you can take it to gigs without having to hold it the same way up? Or have I missed something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rk7 Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 Ah, the penny has dropped, sorry, it's past my bedtime. We were discussing this today. I will probably go down the Salvage 'suitcase' route. I need to make a sleeve for my new amp (when it gets here) but after that I'll do the suitcase. RK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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