JohnFitzgerald Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 (edited) The back story. Mate buys his son an RBX170. Passive, two volumes, one tone. P/J pickups. Plays absolutely fine. Son plays bass a little, he's just learning. Gives up. Decides he likes a small sherry more than playing bass. Comes in one night having had one too many sherries and the bass is sitting in the corner unloved. Result. One rather compromised bass. How very rock n roll...... I now have it after dad reclaimed it. No money changed hands. [attachment=91465:18102011872.jpg] [attachment=91466:18102011873.jpg] [attachment=91467:18102011874.jpg] [attachment=91468:18102011875.jpg] [attachment=91469:18102011876.jpg] [attachment=91470:18102011877.jpg] [attachment=91471:18102011879.jpg] [attachment=91472:18102011880.jpg] What to do ? It's really about repairing it because it's a viable bass. Nothing more. I'm confident that the crack in the top is largely confined to the finish. Most likely, I'll remove all of the finish, refinish it and do a repair to where the pot was smashed out. Thin liner to the underside of the control cavity and surface finish on top. Thoughts anyone ? Daft ones welcome. Or alternatively, feel free to have a rant about the daftness of youth. Edited October 18, 2011 by JohnFitzgerald Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clauster Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Rather than a full refin, how about a Stingray style control plate? Make a cardboard template and take to a local engineering firm. Could look very smart and cost less than the materials for a refin, and be done a lot quicker to boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clauster Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Oh, just seen the other pics. My suggestion wouldn't help with those paint cracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnFitzgerald Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 I like the Stingray style control plate and had already considered that. As you rightly say, doesn't help with the other issues. Might do both. A colour not standard to Yamaha and a control plate might look cool. Regarding the shape and manufacturer of the plate, I'm handy with CAD and as luck would have it have a friend who has a waterjet cuting machine. I'm thinking a bit of thin mirror finish stainless, cur more like a scratchplate, maybe. I like what Bud Lecompte does with this sort of stuff, so may go for that approach. Black bass with metal scratchplate, only with a modern body shape. A modern take on the classic Lynott homage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clauster Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Sounds good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jondeeman Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Not that I'm any great expert, but... I'd strip it back and have a look at that crack. it seems very long for it to only be in the surface and my guess is that it may have some depth to it. It'd make sense to do it before refinishing. If the wood has separated in any great way, I'd glue and clamp rather than surface fill the crack and hope. Hours of stripping and sanding fun lay ahead of you - enjoy. Worry about the colours and scratch plates another day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnFitzgerald Posted October 21, 2011 Author Share Posted October 21, 2011 Yes, you're quite right. Only once the finish is off can I consider the way forwards with this one. Let the sanding commence then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnFitzgerald Posted October 21, 2011 Author Share Posted October 21, 2011 Just found an interesting link. [url="http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/veneer.htm"]http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/veneer.htm[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 Hi I agree with Jondeeman that it needs stripping down to see if the body is cracked (which I suspect it is ) I did a thread last year of tips and tricks about veneering that might be helpful [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/142149-veneering-an-ibanez-gsr200-tips-tricks/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/142149-veneering-an-ibanez-gsr200-tips-tricks/[/url] I've done quite a few - both basses and 6 strings - ( see www.ajrguitarmods.co.uk ) and it really isn't as hard as it looks (although there are the aforementioned tips and tricks that make all the difference) Shout if you have any specifics you aren't sure about - whatever it is, I've probably already done it, got it wrong, started again and then found out how to get it right Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnFitzgerald Posted October 21, 2011 Author Share Posted October 21, 2011 You're a gent sir. Duly noted and having a gander as we speak. Your Ibanez GSR200 on your website. I've just had what I believe the victorian referred to as a "crisis" of the trouser area. THAT'S what I'm talkin' about baby !! Sorry, turned all Nooyork there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 [quote name='JohnFitzgerald' timestamp='1319192098' post='1410983'] You're a gent sir. Duly noted and having a gander as we speak. Your Ibanez GSR200 on your website. I've just had what I believe the victorian referred to as a "crisis" of the trouser area. THAT'S what I'm talkin' about baby !! Sorry, turned all Nooyork there. [/quote] I've used Camp coffee in the past as a woodstain and also Quink ink - but never thought about using c**p . It works for leather, so.... The Ibanez was my first attempt - came out great. I left the veneer cracks showing which radiate out from the centre. What is surprising is that it looks like a carved top now when it is clearly a flat top. It was sold to a Nepalese Buddhist who plays bass in a heavy metal band who was 'spiritually drawn' to it. Just got to find a few more of those kinds of customer and I could make a fortune.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnFitzgerald Posted October 21, 2011 Author Share Posted October 21, 2011 Yeah, that's definitely the way I'm going with this. I always but always feel drawn to anything with exotic looking natural wood finish, especially when it is so striking. Just dreaming, but in keeping with my ongoing Alembic fantasy, would you think that Cocobolo or anything similar might be available in these veneers ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 You mean like this? [url="http://www.slhardwoods.co.uk/Products/Veneering-Veneer-Packs-CocoboloVeneer-14881.aspx"]http://www.slhardwoods.co.uk/Products/Veneering-Veneer-Packs-CocoboloVeneer-14881.aspx[/url] I've never used it (or this particular supplier), and I'm not sure how the bookmatching would go, but these sheets are plenty big enough for a bookmatched bass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnFitzgerald Posted October 21, 2011 Author Share Posted October 21, 2011 Just like this one... If only. Cocobolo just looks so luxurious. [center][/center] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 I think I saw a thread on this one - is it hollowed out with a laminated thru neck and thick, chambered, laminated cocobolo wings? Just a guess It is indeed a beaut. Anyhow, I reckon you could get something pretty close-looking with veneer - it would just need a bit of vigilance and searching on the internet to get the right size and bookmatch. Why not give it a go? More than happy to [s]heckle from the wings [/s] offer ongoing hints and tips Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnFitzgerald Posted October 21, 2011 Author Share Posted October 21, 2011 Andy Top bloke. I now need to work out how to snag the right veneer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Batfastard Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 And if you want to see how not to do a veneer look at my sig. Also handy tips on how to make your own clamp for doing a matching headstock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnFitzgerald Posted October 28, 2011 Author Share Posted October 28, 2011 I've got wood. And a dismantled bass ready for the paint to be stripped. Let battle commence. The truly observant amongst you will already have noticed that this is actually four pieces. On the basis that I won't be fooling anyone that this is anything other than a nice bit of veneer glued to a relatively mundane bass I'm cool with that. I think the figuring will work well and the general pattern and colours are pleasing to my eye at least. Let's see how it pans out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 Whoa! That's truly stunning - and it will look even even better when the varnish gets into that grain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnFitzgerald Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 Andy Glad you approve It's certainly my hope that the grain does come out once I have it finished. Speaking of which. What is your finish of choice for these type of jobs ? Cheers JF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 Hi, John I use Birchwood Casey Tru-oil...available from all good gun shops! It is used to do the gunstocks of shotguns and therefore also readily available over the internet. The thread you saw earlier details how it is applied (very easy, though a b****r to get the final coat dust free). Birchwood Casey also do a sealer filler which dries clear and fills the grain pretty successfully. In very brief, I do a generous brushed coat of the sealer/filler, let it dry (you can sand the sealer filler while it is still wet and the mush will pretty successfully fill the larger gaps), sand back down to the veneer, then apply a number of coats of Tru-Oil, letting it dry fully and sanding gently with 1000 wet n dry in between (I apply it with my fingers - but read the datasheets just in case that will send me to an early grave!). After about four or five coats, you end up with a high gloss finish. This stuff REALLY brings the grain out! It sets touch dry in around an hour but takes about a week to fully harden. It will never be anywhere near as resilient as poly or nitro, but is very easy to repair and can be kept shiny with a Wax polish that Birchwood Casey also sell. The other great thing is that one small bottle of Tru-oil (around about £4.00) can do at least two guitars! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnFitzgerald Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 Andy, closer inspection of the pieces I have to hand reveal nothing significant by way of voids or what you might call significant fissures, so I guess that's a bonus. I still see a benefit in using grain sealer / filler to acheive a relatively sound substrate upon which the tock coats can be applied. Going to head off out in a bit and get hold of some bits and pieces to get this body stripped down and see what lies beneath. Thanks for taking an interest in this project. JF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 Hi, John The reason the sealer / filler helps (or you can just add extra coats of the Tru-oil) - and the sanding steps, is that it allows a true gloss finish to develop much quicker. Otherwise, the grain will continue to show (which is what some people like, of course) and it will look more like an oiled finish rather than a gloss varnished finish. I've done both ways, to be honest, and been pleased with both - they are just different. Keep up the good work! Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnFitzgerald Posted October 30, 2011 Author Share Posted October 30, 2011 Well, today some of the horrible blue finish relinquished its grip on the body. Not all of it, but progress was made. It's fair to say it put up a bit of a fight, but that wasn't unexpected. So, here's how far I got. Best news is that there is no damage to the body at all, so the only repair necessary will be to the damaged control cavity. I have a plan for this seeing as it's now getting the veneered top. Anyway, the obligatory pics. Not a bad lump of wood, but terrible alignment - as expected. A sound enough basis from which to proceed, I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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