thinman Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 Started a build of a BFM Omni10 two weekends ago... Decided to build the wider (crossfire width) version for its slightly extended bass response but with just the 4 piezos. Also decided to use the Deltalite II Neo drivers. First job was to cut up the ply. I'm supposed to be carrying on with building the house extension and had to order some more plasterboard etc so it seemed rude to not order an 8' x 4' of birch ply whilst I was at it. Saved on delivery too. I could only get a 9 ply which is probably a bit OTT for this but it was a nice bit of wood. The whole thing starts off in Ikea form: [attachment=6363:Cab1.jpg] And then on to getting all gluey using the polyurethane as it goes together: [attachment=6364:Cab2.jpg] I've done a reasonable amount of woodwork in the past so this all went fairly well including cutting the baffle horn angles etc. Plenty of time for cock-ups later. Main cab mostly done and ready for rounding off with a router and sanding: [attachment=6365:Cab3.jpg] I suppose this took about 3 afternoons to get to that point. Still had the back and the baffle board to cut. You might notice that that there's no tweeter holes cut. That's because CPC, who are about the only place to get those specified at a reasonable price, is clean out of them again. So, I'm going to continue without them - it shouldn't be too much hassle to fit them after completion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilmour Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 Good Job, That look like really nice clean work I think all the 1016 piezos in the country are sitting in house of various BFM builders around the country (me included) I know that Dave Perry has just built a wide O10 with an 8 tweeter melded array, he's really pleased with thte results. Have a butchers on Bill's forum or Finnbass for his build diary. There's also a Dutch builder who's making some DR280's - he had 96 Piezos to meld into an array Keep us posted with loads of piccies please, I really enjoy other build diaries, and put off starting my O10.5 at the weekend because I was in no mood to do it in the cold. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinman Posted March 13, 2008 Author Share Posted March 13, 2008 Not too mad on carpet covering so went for a paint finish. Was going to use Blue Arran's Tuff Cab but they were out of stock when I ordered the rest of the hardware and drivers. Other suppliers of similar stuff wanted about £13 for 2.5kgs plus about the same again to deliver. I decided that there must be other similar acrylic-based paints available. I've used blackboard paint on stuff before but it marks so easily - but then it's supposed to! The nearest fit seemed to be smooth finish masonry paint. So, I tried Wickes' own brand which they do in black in 250ml pots for £1.49 each. Tried it out on some scraps to check the adhesion - it seems fine. Rub-down after first coat then 4 more with a 4" gloss roller. Gives a slightly textured low silk finish which seems very durable. Whole cab given 5 coats with two pots - total £2.98. And, it's got a fungicide in it which might be useful in some places I know... Someone will probably post a reply telling me I've got a highly toxic cab now. Well it's a good job I didn't use some of my old dad's stash of creosote... Will post some more piccies soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinman Posted March 24, 2008 Author Share Posted March 24, 2008 Finally progressing again after an two week enforced break due to a rather nasty bout of flu. Two weeks spent coughing, feeling crap, watching Jeremy Kyle and reading basschat. The cab's now painted, handles, feet and corners on. The back's made with a twin speakon connector plate cut in. The baffle and brace are cut with T-nuts mounted for the drivers. Must find a better alternative to T-nuts - they're horrible things. Dave Perry had some interesting looking brass insert things. The piezos also turned up so I cut the holes in the tweeter baffle. The piezos are not air tight so I sealed them with black silicone before fitting and also sealed them in-place. Latest photos below. It got rather dusty in the garage hence the spots on the lens and dust on the cab! Looks better in the flesh! All that remains is to fit and fix the egg crate foam damping, put the grille over the baffle and final fix that plus wire it up. Picture of dusty front with piezos in and baffle standing in-place. [attachment=6835:cab7.jpg] View of the back with the baffle loosely in place. [attachment=6836:cab6.jpg] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinman Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 Well, it's finished. Lined the cab with egg-crate foam, wired it and put it together: [attachment=7098:cab10.jpg] And here it is... [attachment=7099:Cab11.jpg] and [attachment=7100:Cab12.jpg] (I think there's some sawdust stuck in my camera). Quite pleased with it - looks something like a cross between a F117 and Darth Vader. So, what does it sound like? Haven't had a chance to turn it up much - should do that tomorrow (Monday) - but tried it with my newly acquired H&K Bassbase 250 head (thanks warwickhunt) and my MIM Jazz. First impression is that it will be loud due to its efficiency and very responsive to what's played. It also hints at being very punchy. I haven't broken the drivers in as part of the build so will have to do that through playing but it certainly doesn't seem to lack bottom end. I had the EQ set flat and the tone was very full. Now, I don't have too much with which to compare this cab but I've currently got an Ashdown MAG300 C115 combo. That doesn't seem to lack power but sounds like a bowl of rice pudding by comparison. I've also recently used a Trace GK7 1x15" combo and a Wawrick 1x15" combo and this seems so much punchier and responsive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinman Posted April 2, 2008 Author Share Posted April 2, 2008 (edited) I've had a chance to give the cab a good go now so I'll try and post a review withOUT using the words "warm" and "punchy".... Edited April 3, 2008 by thinman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_l_perry Posted April 3, 2008 Share Posted April 3, 2008 Lovely looking build.... They really are a fantastic sounding cab...... Top job that man...!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinman Posted April 3, 2008 Author Share Posted April 3, 2008 [quote name='david_l_perry' post='169172' date='Apr 3 2008, 03:01 PM']Lovely looking build.... They really are a fantastic sounding cab...... Top job that man...!![/quote] Cheers David - I've been admiring your other builds on the BFM site and finnbass. What intrigued me most was an discussion you had on speakerplans.com IIRC when doing your very first BFM builds with someone who was convinced that the cabs would be rubbish based entirely on his analysis of designs and never actually having heard one. I guess you feel vindicated now... I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_l_perry Posted April 4, 2008 Share Posted April 4, 2008 (edited) [quote name='thinman' post='169365' date='Apr 3 2008, 07:32 PM']What intrigued me most was a discussion you had on speakerplans.com when doing your very first BFM builds with someone who was convinced that the cabs would be rubbish based entirely on his analysis of designs and never actually having heard one....[/quote] Yep...this was the DR290/280 cabs.... The guy has a very angry spot for Bills designs... His argument was based upon the folded geometry of the DR's causing distortion at certain freq's, and that a folded horn cant reproduce certain freq mainly in the vocal range...he was very hot headed, aggressive and frankly abusive. I kept all of my build and full testing of the DR cab fully documented along with the problems I had.....I sat on the fence for a long time on this build, but maintained an open mind (unlike others). I got lots of help and advice from Bill sforum. End result was a system with the clearest vocal sound I had worked with, and a system capable of producing massive SPL with very little input. All built by an idiot in his garage... The biggest part was that Eq is a major requirement to get them sounding good, which is why I asked Bill to add the EQ section on the forum, so others need not go through the trouble I did... Even once I posted the results (verified with owners of three high quality PA's being at the tests - we owned HK, D&B, Concert systems rigs) and all agreeing that they sounded great, the speakerplans posse simply would not accept it...I gave up and left the children to their squabbles....I rarely go back to that forum its all about 'dood look how big my DJ dance stack is...' Its a shame as Rog Mogul (founder of speakerplans) has designed some amazing systems, in fact I own one of his small systems and its a stunning little PA. He has pretty much abandoned the forum once things started getting out of hand with the children..... Dave Edited April 4, 2008 by david_l_perry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warwickhunt Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 (edited) Nice looking job and I'm pleased the H&K is working out for you, must send you the manual as soon as I can lay my hands on it! I 'may' end up with one of these soon and though I've not heard one in the flesh (anyone in the NE ) I'm sure from all of the comments I shouldn't be disappointed. <edit> I'm on the look out for one of these, I'd buy blind (or deaf in this case) if the price were right but if it's proper money then I need to hear one first Edited April 5, 2008 by warwickhunt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nugget Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 (edited) Great build - Thinking of doing one myself, if you dont mind me asking how much did it cost to build????? Thanks Edited April 5, 2008 by nugget Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Burpster Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Nugget fill a bit more of your profile please..... I had a mate that was known as Nugget... That I've lost touch with! I got all excited for a minute..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinman Posted April 5, 2008 Author Share Posted April 5, 2008 [quote name='nugget' post='170154' date='Apr 5 2008, 10:41 AM']Great build - Thinking of doing one myself, if you dont mind me asking how much did it cost to build????? Thanks[/quote] I asked the same question of Gilmour about his Omni15! About £220 in total. £120 for the Deltalites. About £10 for piezos, resistors etc. £40 for ply. About £30 for foam, feet, handles, corners, speakons, connector plates and grille mesh. Another £20 or so on sundries such as glue, nuts,bolts, washers and paint. Could probably have saved £10 by using a cheaper ply, another £40 by using Beta 10s instead of Deltalites so it could be done for about £170. Using "proper" cab paint would probably have added about £20 (it might yet if my £3 Wickes masonry paint job doesn't hold up). Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peted Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 That Omni 10 looks great. I bought the plans from BFM a few months back but haven't summoned the courage to try building yet. I have nil woodwork experience, so I'll be asking my dad for help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinman Posted April 6, 2008 Author Share Posted April 6, 2008 [quote name='warwickhunt' post='170125' date='Apr 5 2008, 09:10 AM']Nice looking job and I'm pleased the H&K is working out for you, must send you the manual as soon as I can lay my hands on it! I 'may' end up with one of these soon and though I've not heard one in the flesh (anyone in the NE ) I'm sure from all of the comments I shouldn't be disappointed. <edit> I'm on the look out for one of these, I'd buy blind (or deaf in this case) if the price were right but if it's proper money then I need to hear one first [/quote] John, One's just come on on finnbass for £250 which is a bargain but it's in Portsmouth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warwickhunt Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 [quote name='thinman' post='170740' date='Apr 6 2008, 03:44 PM']John, One's just come on on finnbass for £250 which is a bargain but it's in Portsmouth.[/quote] Cheers mate, I shall go forth and check it out. Anybody you know or is it a well known finnbasser? Carriage is probably gonna be the killer but we shall see! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinman Posted April 6, 2008 Author Share Posted April 6, 2008 [quote name='peted' post='170588' date='Apr 6 2008, 10:28 AM']That Omni 10 looks great. I bought the plans from BFM a few months back but haven't summoned the courage to try building yet. I have nil woodwork experience, so I'll be asking my dad for help.[/quote] Thanks - gofor it - it's worth it. However: I'd practice ripping up ply with a circular saw using a guide first. I use a 4' aluminium spirit level with two G clamps but the plans do show you how to produce a ply alternative. G clamps are very useful, dare I say essential. The other important point is to remember that a saw blade is not zero thickness. You need to measure from the saw foot's guide edge to the near side of the teeth and the far side to where to clamp your guide. E.g. If you want to cut a 200mm wide piece then with my saw I measure 238mm and clamp the guide at that point - 38mm being the distance from the saw's foot side to the far side of the blade (36mm + 2mm blade thickness). Another useful aide is a 90, 60, 30 square which I found useful for accurately setting non-square cuts - it was more accurate than using the angle guide on the saw. (BTW always check your saw is at 90 degrees before use when curring square edges - never assume). The saw sled the plans describe is also very useful. Drill countersunk holes through it to allow you to screw it to the work piece (at least two per workpiece otherwise it can swivel). Remember that the bit you want to keep goes under the sled - not on the exposed side otherwise it ends up a saw blade's thickness to small! And the old saying applies: "Measure twice, cut once!" A router with a 10mm rounding over bit is also very useful - most cab corners fit that radius. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinman Posted April 6, 2008 Author Share Posted April 6, 2008 [quote name='warwickhunt' post='170744' date='Apr 6 2008, 03:52 PM']Cheers mate, I shall go forth and check it out. Anybody you know or is it a well known finnbasser? Carriage is probably gonna be the killer but we shall see![/quote] It's no-one I know - not sure if they're a longstanding finnbasser either but may be worth a few enquiries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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