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In need of a quick rub down!!


Marky L
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Oh matron!!

Actually, I've just got a neck back from a friend who nitro laquered it for me but he said I just need to give it a final rub down to bring up the shine. He did mention what to use, but I forgot and now he's out of the country and I don't want to hassle him.

Advice??
Ta.

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[quote name='Marky L' post='1313523' date='Jul 23 2011, 08:28 AM']Oh matron!!

Actually, I've just got a neck back from a friend who nitro laquered it for me but he said I just need to give it a final rub down to bring up the shine. He did mention what to use, but I forgot and now he's out of the country and I don't want to hassle him.

Advice??
Ta.[/quote]
I have a old bottle of Carnuaba Polish which I find the best thing for buffing up a nitro finish, (& most everything), it's like a cream polish with a very fine cutting compound all in one.

I can give you an email for the guy who makes it if you like.

Cheerz, John

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[quote name='Marky L' post='1313523' date='Jul 23 2011, 08:28 AM']Oh matron!!

Actually, I've just got a neck back from a friend who nitro laquered it for me but he said I just need to give it a final rub down to bring up the shine. He did mention what to use, but I forgot and now he's out of the country and I don't want to hassle him.

Advice??
Ta.[/quote]
If he's rubbed it back ready to cut then that's fine but if you've got it back and the last step he "completed" was just spraying it, then you'll have to rub it back to flatten it yourself first - there's absolutely no point cutting it if it's not flat.
Not knowing what grade he got it up to, I'm guessing this wasn't a pro job or he would have finished it properly for you, then 1000+ (wet) might be worth a pop. I take mine up to 1500 before my final buff.

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[quote name='Marky L' post='1313569' date='Jul 23 2011, 09:41 AM']That does sound spot on John as I need that little bit of a cutting bite in it. I imagine it could be usuefull for working on a few light body scratches on other things too.

Ta :)[/quote]
That's exactly what I do, it's gentle but seems to take out all those little scuffs & scratches without damaging the surrounding. In fact you can use it on any surface - metal, wood painted or varnish etc.
Cheerz, John

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[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1313589' date='Jul 23 2011, 10:11 AM']If he's rubbed it back ready to cut then that's fine but if you've got it back and the last step he "completed" was just spraying it, then you'll have to rub it back to flatten it yourself first - there's absolutely no point cutting it if it's not flat.
Not knowing what grade he got it up to, I'm guessing this wasn't a pro job or he would have finished it properly for you, then 1000+ (wet) might be worth a pop. I take mine up to 1500 before my final buff.[/quote]

Not a pro job, but he has made five or six various guitars for himself all to a very good standard. From what I understand it had it's final coat which he has let cure and then passed it over to me as I was hassling him a bit!! The finish isn't "smooth" it looks a little more satin than gloss. I want to take it easy and not bugger it up so I guess my heavy hands need to go with as finer wet&dry as I can without making it an endless task.

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[quote name='KiOgon' post='1313637' date='Jul 23 2011, 11:08 AM']That's exactly what I do, it's gentle but seems to take out all those little scuffs & scratches without damaging the surrounding. In fact you can use it on any surface - metal, wood painted or varnish etc.
Cheerz, John[/quote]

I wonder if I could work some of the scratches out of my fav sunglasses? This could be a great cure all!!!

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[quote name='Marky L' post='1313772' date='Jul 23 2011, 01:15 PM']I wonder if I could work some of the scratches out of my fav sunglasses? This could be a great cure all!!![/quote]

If the glasses are coated with a UV-reflective layer then this would be a bad idea...

Regarding heavy hands, use good quality wet'n'dry (the Halfords stuff above 600 is crap) and be gentle. I've made the mistake of forcing it but you just need to let the paper do the work and be particularly mindful of edges or you will go through. However if the finish is flat enough from the gun (with minimal orange peel) then I can imagine cutting paste alone doing a decent job. I'm sure they only use paste on a lot of commercially sprayed guitars without working up through the grits.

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