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I need help with an Ibanez SR900 Intonation Problem and Missing Allen Keys.


Patrick
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Hi, I bought an SR900 second hand a few years ago and I gave it to a professional to re-string and setup. I have recently tried to make a few adjustments myself and I have a problem - when trying to adjust the intonation on the E string, the saddle doesn't move but the intonation screw that enters into the back of the bridge moves so that I can see it coming out of the back of the bridge if I keep turning anti-clockwise, and I can see it coming through the saddle if I keep turning clockwise but as I say the saddle itself doesn't move .... it's as if it is locked but as I understand it the B20 bridge doesn't have locking saddles .... well there's certainly no signs of one.

Can anyone advise what is going on here and how I might resolve the situation?

Also what size Allen Keys do I need for the string height screw and the truss rod adjustment?

Also I have just noticed that the repair guy has threaded the string through the back of the bridge, and not through the body as you would expect - could this cause problems?

Any help much appreciated.

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FWIW to all Bass Chatters Maplin's are doing a full set of 30 allen keys in a proper box made by Rolson (too cheap for car repairs but good enough for our little bass grub screws and truss rods. Metric and Imperial sizes for £7. I was sick of not having the right ones and this set is perfect so Im will keep it in the bassdrobe instead of letting it get mixed up with my other tools in the garage.
[attachment=67678:keys.jpg]

I presume the bridge just has the option of sting thru or thru body? I cant see an issue with that but probably be best to have them all one way or the other.

As for the first bit it just sounds like you need to give it a good yank to release it forward or release any string tension on the saddle?

Edited by stingrayPete1977
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Yep to all what Pete said there.

I don't know this bridge intimately but often when adjusting the intonation on a bass where the saddles haven't moved for some time they will need some additional pressure from your screwdriver to assist the screw back into the bridge after lengthening the screw. Alternatively you could tighten the screw up to free the saddle that way.

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[quote name='JimBobTTD' post='1075431' date='Jan 2 2011, 04:20 PM']...with the string thoroughly loosened or taken off first....[/quote]
It makes sense... although I don't usually bother just in case the release of tension plays havoc with the neck and you have to wait for it to "settle" again. :)

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On my SR500 - I check the intonation about every three months or so - but other than just curiosity I've not really had to adjust it much or after the first time. The factory setting was pretty good - but I still use Elixir Nanos on mine, so if you;'ve changed to another brand, then you might just have to bite it and get 'er done.

As usual - I tend to be a little narrow-minded about things and I always adjust by tightening a screw rather than loosening it.

We all tune UP to the note - right? Same with the intonation [u]only backwards[/u]: I tune DOWN to it by turning the screws tighter - only in the direction that would normally tighten the screw and lower the intonation note.

I diagnose if the bass actually needs intonation first, then I [u]take it past[/u] the place where it might wind up in my estimation and slowly adjust it back to the correct point always turning the screw to the right.

FWIW: I also do all my intonation fully tuned to the correct pitch on the open string and with an amp plugged into the jack through my meter at the same time.

That way I can actually hear what's going on and it helps to keep things under control.

HTH. Let me know.

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