BruceBass3901

Hi guys,

I had a quick search around and found some of the information I was looking but not everything...

I have had an Ashdown rig of some form or another for some time now but have usually used a DI box at gigs as the bands I was playing with always just used the venues PA, so I tried to stay out of the soundguy's way and just do what he said, which was normally use the DI box he thrusted/threw at me.

I'm now in a band that run their own sound through their own PA, so have had to get together a few bits and pieces to make sure I am gig ready.

The last piece to my puzzle is a cable to go from the DI output on my amp (currently either an Ashdown ABM 900 or CTM 300) to the bands desk for PA use. The current bass player (whom I am replacing as he is moving away) uses an unbranded cable to do this and suffers no problems whatsoever. My only experience of using the DI on my ABM directly is that it caused an awful hum, which it turned out was due to the cable having its pin 1 connected to the DI plug casing, not a problem with the amp itself. This was confirmed by Ashdown.

I cannot find information on any of the packaging or details online of the DI cables I have been looking at as to how they are wired, and as I do not want to buy a cable and then find it is not suitable, I thought I would ask here...

Does anybody know a good place to get a decent quality DI cable (about 20ft/6m should be fine) which will be wired correctly for my needs?

Or would I be better off making my own cable up? If so, what cable are people using for DI cables?

Thank you kindly!

I've read the same; cut into the lacquer with a scalpel blade so that it doesn't crack when the nut is removed

I have to say that I have played through a couple of Ampeg rigs (both valve and solid state) and have never really gotten on with them. I just find that they don't give me what I want. If I was shopping for an all valve amp to get that valve 'heft' to my sound, I would either go with a Fender Super Bassman 300 or an Ashdown CTM 300.

I own a CTM 300 and it is hands down the best sounding amp that I have ever played through and I have played through my fair share of both valve and solid state.

While I haven't had the chance to play through an SVT-450, I have read very few positive reviews of them, so try one and make your own decision if it is for you, but definitely try some others to compare it to.

I think I am right in saying that the idea is to attach the bridge to a section of the instrument which is made from a different material, usually to increase sustain or change the tone (supposedly). Alembic did this quite a lot by having a brass 'tone block' under the bridge, others have used Ash, Alder or Mahogany.

I actually kinda dig that... Other than the silverburst and tort combo

Are there going to be any physical copies? Or just digital download?

Really digging this! Great work man. Look forward to hearing more

[quote name='Adrenochrome' timestamp='1432149350' post='2778706']
Hmmm - is bluetooth wireless bass next?
[/quote]

The Ashdown B-Social and Blackstar ID Core BEAM are already doing it

I'm noticing more and more shops stocking less and less bass gear, let alone decent bass gear! My local shop only has 2 unloved Fender Jazz basses and a second-hand Precision copy and then 2 ratty looking Fender bass combos... They used to stock a load of Overwater basses, plus a number of Squiers and a few acoustics, but now it is just a handful of secondrate gear

You may want to indicate where you are based as there aren't any details on your profile?

And what colour/fretboard/pickguard combination is the bass?

Are you looking to get an amp to practice with on your own, practice with a band or go gigging with?

If you are looking to practice with a band or gig, what are your guitarists playing through and how loud are you generally? Is there a PA available at practices or the gigs?

If you want a to try and get similar sound to your current setup, maybe look for one of the Ashdown MAG 600 heads? Or look into moving up to the ABM heads. Lots of headroom available from the ABM 500 or 900 EVO III range (in my experience) and apparently even more from the new EVO IV range. You get greater control with the ABMs as well as you have either a 7 or 9 band EQ as opposed to the 5 bands on the MAG.

Or, if you are considering getting a preamp at some point anyway, why not look into getting a decent poweramp instead?

What is the width of the neck heel please?

Not a colour combination I would normally go for, particularly not with relicing but that is actually a very nice looking bass! Very tasteful

Glad to hear you were able to walk away with so much and so happy

Somebody please correct me if this is bad advice, but I have heard several people suggest getting a roundwound string of the required size and gently running it through the nut slot to act as a file works for small adjustments.

Failing that, a needle file would do the trick. Just go slow and keep checking

I would say contact Ashdown about it as there customer service is normally excellent.

It sounds like it could be a valve or dirty input to me. Does it stop when the valve drive is disengaged?

I still think the GORM from IKEA is a good foundation for a pedalboard, then if you need the added protection of a hardcase, just get a flightcase made to fit it... Or reverse the order and get a cheap flightcase then build a board to fit it!

There are loads of people about making wooden pedalboards (some from plain old pine, others using exotic timbers) at prices just as high if not higher than the Pedaltrain boards

The other option is look into a board with a separate case like the Pedaltrain boards, as they don't have an edge to them like yours

Quite a few pedalboards of this type have a similar problem... I used get around it by just attaching a bit of velcro to either side of little bit of wood to put under the first and last pedals in the chain so you can have your input or output slightly higher.

The other option is to make a mini -patchbay kinda thing which features input, output and a send/return setup, so your input and output are in one place and everything is in a loop. This way, you can have the input and output wherever you want and even include a bypass switch on the patchbay for if your power dies or something.

Hope that helps!

I have followed this thread silently since you started it and I now have to chime in and say that this is everything that a bass cab should be! Massively over the top and trouser-leg-flappingly awesome!

What date is your show at the Underworld?

[quote name='bartelby' timestamp='1431112007' post='2767990']
I want one for my bitsa build...
[/quote]

I think Allparts do one?

If you find a pair, give me a shout It looks like these are long gone though I found some discussions about it from 2009 on other forums

I don't mean to alarm anyone, but this was available in red as well...

The metallic teal is much nicer though

Oh god... I want one! As long as it has a satin finish neck...