dincz

[quote name='dood' post='1059925' date='Dec 15 2010, 08:40 PM']*Dvorák's "New World" Symphony playing in the background*[/quote] Thanks for that. I'm actually in Janáček territory - here: [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jW5fRySjgq4"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jW5fRySjgq4[/url] OK, back on topic!

[quote name='dood' post='1059878' date='Dec 15 2010, 07:59 PM']Not necessarily, for example D Class and H Class amplifiers. There are some whose individual channels are bridged already too, but I haven't seen any new versions of those for a while. Maybe not cost effective![/quote] Oops, I must have dozed off for the past 15 years OK, foot now out of mouth.

Any 2 channel power amp is bridgeable with the addition of some very basic electronics. A competent tech should be able to add the necessary phase inverter for next to nothing. There's a kit here for ₤8.25: [url="http://www.jaycar.co.uk/productView.asp?ID=KC5469&keywords=KC5469&form=KEYWORD"]http://www.jaycar.co.uk/productView.asp?ID...mp;form=KEYWORD[/url]

[quote name='Chopthebass' post='1057739' date='Dec 13 2010, 08:58 PM']It shouldn't make any difference. The speaker sockets on the amp are wired in parallel just like the ones on the cabs, so the end impedance is the same whichever way you go.[/quote] Unless the gauge of the speaker cable isn't up to the job, in which case you'd lose power in the resistance of the cable.

[quote name='Bassassin' post='1053156' date='Dec 9 2010, 07:17 PM']I'd also buy a Jolana D Rick copy, given half a chance![/quote] Saw one of those for sale too - 110 Euros but it's in Slovakia

Maybe a bit too weird for export. Apparently it's a Jolana Disco Bass.

Just came across this curiosity - it's currently for sale in the Czech Republic for about £70. [attachment=66040:Jolana.jpg]

I'd recommend replacing the fuse to give the same level of protection at 220V as at 110V. In the unlikely event that something does go wrong, the correct fuse will ensure that the internals are lightly singed rather than cremated.

It's sounding more and more as if ear training is what's needed.

[quote name='Christophano' post='1049048' date='Dec 6 2010, 10:48 AM']Anything else you can suggest that I should look in to changing/upgrading?[/quote] It might be worth having a close look at the EL84 valve sockets. If there's any sign of previous arcing or burning (i.e. charcoal), it'll be worth having them replaced.

Crown XLS1000? It's good for 1100W - 700W into your 8 ohm box. Just coasting. And only 8.6lbs.

[quote name='icastle' post='1041668' date='Nov 29 2010, 10:31 PM']I think in the big scheme of things, more bass players tend to go for a head and a cab (or six) for their rig instead of preamp, power amp and cab.[/quote] That's the impression I get too, but pre/power rigs are by no means unusual. I guess my take on it is that it's easier to train a trickle of electrons to behave as I want them to than to deal with a whole high-power torrent of them. And then there's flexibility as well as the option to upgrade bits at a time rather than the entire head. I'm getting off-topic now and maybe this warrants a new thread. For those who do prefer a pre-power rig, what are your thoughts on Samson?

[quote name='icastle' post='1041590' date='Nov 29 2010, 09:23 PM']Well they were never really designed for use as a bass amp. There are no tone controls, output is possible via 1/4" jacks but no speakon connectors which most modern bass amps use. Input is possible via 1/4" jack - which is the norm but they are on the rear of the unit next to the phono inputs - which isn't! It's purely a stereo power amp more designed for permanant installations (sound systems in pubs & clubs) and lacks the features that most bassists expect to see in a bass amp. I'd have absolutely no qualms in using one, but not as part of my bass rig! [/quote] I wasn't suggesting it as a replacement for a head. Maybe I should have mentioned that I'm using a separate preamp (with tone controls) between the bass and the power amp, so wouldn't things be much the same with any pre/power rig in terms of connectors at the back etc?

I've been using a Servo 300 for the past few months with no complaints and am curious about others' experiences with them. Although it's certainly a budget power amp it seems to deliver the goods both on paper and in the flesh. Given that Hartke amps generally rate well, and that Hartke and Samson come from the same factory, why do the Samson Servos (300W and 600W) not show up more often in bass rigs?

[quote name='nugget' post='1034933' date='Nov 24 2010, 12:55 PM']over the last month in nearly every gig I've been having to turn the volume down a bit during soundcheck and now its down to just under a quarter and it's only a 220watt[/quote] This is very common and is usually accompanied by increased wearing of slippers and smoking of pipes

Vertically dispersed audiences tend to work well with side-by-side speakers.

[quote name='borisbrain' post='1030990' date='Nov 21 2010, 12:16 AM']the cabs would theoretically receive a max of 500 W. However, they're 300W cabs. My question - is this a no-no because the output power of the amp would exceed the wattage of the cabs? Or do two cabs at 300W each effectively give me 600W?[/quote] The 500W will be equally divided between two cabs of the same impedance, i.e. 250W each.

[quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='1027283' date='Nov 17 2010, 09:30 PM']What happens when you want to use a wireless system?[/quote] Answer: You feel very disappointed A pity Nikola Tesla didn't play bass.

[quote name='umph' post='1026951' date='Nov 17 2010, 04:19 PM']great watching ta[/quote] It was indeed. Particularly liked "Sad Satan".

I'm really not keen on having to carry round another box. I'm too lazy, too old, live on the third floor and there's no lift. My bass is switchable active/passive and it's a true passive i.e. it works without the battery, so plugging into other gear when necessary is not a problem if I keep the existing jack. Modding the amp isn't a problem either. It would be done in such a way as to be reversible if I wanted to sell it. A bit of work initially but a lot simpler in the long term. Probably the biggest hitch is using preamps/effects between bass and amp. I'm currently using a BDI21, so in fact I'd probably mod that rather than the amp. I run the BDI off an AC adapter rather than a battery as I've heard they eat batteries pretty fast, but either way there's 9V already available without building a regulator. I really like the wind-up idea. You had me seriously thinking about how big a cavity I'd need to rout in the bass. A bit of winding mid-set (or mid-song) could add a new dimension to the performance - and might be more entertaining than my playing

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' post='1026239' date='Nov 16 2010, 08:17 PM']That would happen if somebody plugged a mic into your amp. A four conductor XLR would remove that possibility, as [b]they're hardly used for anything anymore[/b]. So much so that they might be hard to find.[/quote] That looks like the best option then. The Neutrik version seems to be readily available in Europe. I thought they were used for DMX but apparently that's the 5 pin version.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' post='1025904' date='Nov 16 2010, 03:25 PM']It's simple, use an XLR at either end, tap into one of the pre-amp's positive rails. If the on-board will take more than 9v you can get additional headroom, but if not use a 9v voltage regulator. Be sure to filter the supply at the bass end. The advantage is never having a dead battery. Be sure to retain the 1/4" at both ends and back-up battery on board in case you ever need them. Manufacturers don't offer this due to compatibility issues.[/quote] That's what I have in mind, but my only concern is the use of a standard connector which would allow accidental connection of standard gear/instruments that might be damaged or that might damage the power supply. I guess setting a sensible level of current limiting in the regulator would take care of the latter.

My next thought was to use a 4 pin XLR to avoid accidents, but then doesn't DMX lighting gear use these? Any other suggestions for connectors?

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' post='1024619' date='Nov 15 2010, 02:47 PM']Most players buy with their eyes, not their ears. What's the number one comment made about new gear? [i]That looks good, I need to have one![/i] The contents of this video says much about how the eyes tend to overrule the ears. Pay particular attention to the 'tube amp versus SS amp switch' experiment. [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYTlN6wjcvQ"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYTlN6wjcvQ[/url][/quote] Also says much about faith in general. Particularly liked the "Sad Satan" bit starting at 07:15

The Zam unit kind of highlights the problem. Be careful of this and that and use a special cable from instrument to Zam (which uses a standard TRS jack plug). There seem to be lots of possibilities for accidentally connecting incompatible devices and/or cables. And it's yet another piece of kit (or two pieces including the power adapter) to carry around. Even XLR (which I'll probably use) has problems in that it would have to be wired unbalanced with power on the spare pin. Unlike phantom power, which works differently, this would need to be used with care. I think for this to work commercially, amp and instrument manufacturers would need to agree on a standard, using special connectors to prevent damage to standard instruments and equipment.