fingeringAm

WOW. Theres not a nick on any of those basses! I ding mine just taking it out of the case. The Dakota P and Blackstar are giving me fits :wub:

Been on repeat all day Sounds great through my car stereo, well mixed as well, the horns cut through nicely. My one gripe would be that its insanely loud Don't get me wrong I LOVE crankin my stereo to 11 and pissing off the car next me but when I have my ipod on shuffle and one of these tracks come on I nearly blow my subs I look forward to the next cut, if you ever tour in the US you gotta come to OC and the East Bay

30 seconds into the first track.....and it kicks ass! Great stuff

[quote name='bassplace' post='696855' date='Dec 30 2009, 03:50 PM']Although the pic doesn't show it, it's trans-white, based on a Precision I saw at a store in the 70's but could never afford.[/quote] You could afford a Wal but not a 70's P ?

[quote name='obbm' post='695618' date='Dec 29 2009, 06:34 AM']Just had a mailshot from Soundslive offering 15% off Orange again. That brings the Bass Terror down to £381.65 plus postage. Discount code is "ORA15".[/quote] That site has them WAY cheaper than here in the US. Thanks Also, has anyone played DB through these?

[quote name='PaulKing' post='588666' date='Sep 3 2009, 05:32 AM']First thing to check - string height could be too high because bridge is in wrong place. The centres of the bridge feet should line up with the little notches cut into the f-holes. If your bridge is higher up thqan this, it could make the strings a couple of mm too high. So follow the noptes below to re-position the bridge. If that's not the problem, you can still do some DIY and save oodles of quid on luthier fees. Taking off the bridge is really not that scary. 1) Lie the bass flat. Do not pick it up again until you have finished this procedure... 2) Loosen off all the strings, each one a bit at a time to keep the pressure relatively even on the bridge. 3) When the strings are really quite loose, you'll be able to topple the bridge over easily. Make sure the tailpiece doesn't drop onto the surface of the bass and scratch it. 4) Take off the bridge to do whatever you need to do... 5) Reposition bridge, starting with it lying flat, feet pointing towards bottom of bass. Than lift the top up underthe strings, slotting the strings into the notches, making sure they don't catch under the fingerboard. Also make sure the tailgut (wire that connects the tailpiece to end pin) runs over the little wooden saddle at the bottom of the bass. 6) Good idea at this point to scrape a little pencil lead into the bridge notches to lubricate the strings. 7) Slide around the bridge until in the right place, check strings run centrally along fingerboard, then start tightening strings, again each one just a bit at a time. 8) As tension gets higher, watch the bridge doesn't pull towards the neck. if it does, just push it back so that the feet are flat, and the bridge at 90degrees to the top of the bass. 9) When strings are almost full tension, pick up the bass and finish off tuning. To adjust the string height ... 1) Work out how much you want to lower height by (typical steel string heights for jazz are around 5-8 mm, normally heighest on E string.) 2) Draw a line vertically down from centre of each existing string notch. 3) Mark points on those lines xmm beneath existing notch. Then using a small round file, slowly deepen the notch (without widening if you can) until you reach that line. 4) You could put the bridge back on like this, but you'll have deep notches, which can affect the sound. 5) Ideally the notches should be only half the thickness of the string, so you should really sand off any excess wood from the top. Best to draw a line that follows the existing contour, that runs half a string thickness above your new notches. then sand down to this line. 6) Make sure the notches are smooth and rounded, no sharp edges. Scrape some pencil lead into them. Job done. Sounds scary, but isn't really... Cheap decent pick ups: David gage Realist for jazz; Underwood, K+K BassMax, Revolution Solo II, Shadow 950 for all purposes. That'll do for starters. All around 100+ quid[/quote] REALLY good DIY setup suggestions You sound like you've done this before.

[quote name='Major-Minor' post='686042' date='Dec 16 2009, 12:39 AM']Yes you are absolutely correct. Although to be honest [b]I've rarely heard anybody actually refer to the "3rd" inversion, but it makes sense to call it that in a 4 note chord.[/b] Chord symbols are just abbreviations after all, so the idea of having "slash" chords is instead of writing "1st Inversion" etc which would be a bit cumbersome. In Baroque music they used the "figured bass" system on harpsichord parts which was a similar idea but the other way round. So they would write a bass note (say G) and write 6/4 underneath it, meaning the intervals of a 6th and a 4th from this note, giving us E (the 6th) and C (the 4th) so we have a C major triad in the second inversion or C/G in modern parlance. The Major[/quote] Thanks I always like to double check when i learn something to make sure I have it right. If its not 3rd inversion what would it be called? I don't want to sound like a idiot trying to tell someone that. I'm unfamiliar with Baroque music, where would I run into this? [quote name='BottomEndian' post='686046' date='Dec 16 2009, 12:46 AM']A slash can certainly be used as a useful shorthand for an inversion, like you say (although first inversion would be C/E, not C/F, but you got it right in your follow-up post so that's presumably a typo!). However, slash chords are also a useful shorthand for some more exotic chords. Try them on a keyboard and see! For example, I find C/F particularly lovely, and it's a lot simpler to read at speed than its standard equivalent, which would be something like Fmaj9(no 3rd). Same with the notorious C/D (discussed above).[/quote] Ya it was late, I didn't catch it.

No, I don't have a bomb strapped to me. I'm Drew Danko. I'm part Palestinian, part Danish. I live in Orange County California. I play upright bass and a tad of electric bass. I have a cheapo bass I picked up on Craigslist that I mistreat My electric bass is a Squier P with after market Bartolini pickups. I play rockabilly/pyschobilly/horror punk and some current UK indie (Arctic Monkeys, The Libertines ect). Thats about it. Oh I'm completely straight but I have a man crush on [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edward_Norton"]Ed Norton[/url], [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rick_Danko"]Rick Danko[/url] and [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kim_Nekroman"]Kim Nekroman[/url]. I know this is UK Basschat so if I'm not welcome just show me the door. Thats it.

My vote certainly goes to the Epiphone Jack Cassady. They are slowly becoming collectors items. The first few years they were produced, they came in Sunburst. Only a few hundred were made and have now doubled in value to well over $1200. The gold and black ones can be had for ~$500US and will only appreciate in value. Now that I think of it, in the 70's Epiphone had a line of Japanese built EA-260 basses. [url="http://www.prestone.co.uk/vb/showthread.php?p=1561354"]Heres one for sale in the UK.[/url]

Talk to [url="http://www.freedomguitar.com/contact_1.php"]these guys[/url]. They ship international, I'm just not sure how much. They sell [url="http://www.freedomguitar.com/description.php?II=13133&UID=2009121604193272.197.146.165"]Prima Basses[/url] I didn't pick one up myself, but I played one in their store and it was fairly top notch. Chinese made, nice ebony board, a good set up could make it a beater for years. With the Euro doing so well, you could make out really cheap.

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='686013' date='Dec 15 2009, 11:06 PM']The article I read said that C/G was a C chord with a low G added to it. Not sure what an inversion means![/quote] Thats what it means. I'll look for a good article on inversions or post some scans of a book I'm reading. Inversions are just that, a chord where the tonic is not the lowest note (also called, "in the bass"). So a C/G would be GEC, where G is in the bass. That would be called 2nd Inversion, because the 5 (G) is in the bass. When the 3(E) is in the bass, it is called 1st inversion. That would be EGC or C/E. Then with 7th Chords, when the 7( B ) is in the bass it is 3rd inversion. And when the tonic [i]is[/i] in the bass, its called Root position. CEG Bare in mind I'm utterly green with this stuff so please correctly where I'm wrong.

[quote name='Major-Minor' post='680997' date='Dec 11 2009, 01:21 AM']Can I just correct one small point here: You say "Dsus is equivalent to C/D". This is not quite right. Dsus is DGA C/D is DGCE If you wrote D7sus you would get DGAC If you wrote D9sus you would get DGACE The Major[/quote] I thought the "/" between two chord names meant an inversion? Like C/E would be a C in first inversion and C/G would be second inversion ect... Am I mistaken?