KiOgon

What more do you need, all the info is there?

Can't remember, think it was '76, 48 years ago 🤣

Most meters will have a 100K range, that'll do but best if you can read each coil, 10K range will give a more accurate reading. 

So sad to hear this, had many deals with Nick, traditional car park meet included, bought a beautiful '51 P bass from him which I still treasure.

Sincere condolences to family and friends, we'll miss you Nick R.I.P.

John

Thanks Lozz ^^^^

Yes change the wiring loom, new pots and jack + cap of choice maybe 0.1uF for deeper tone and solderless fitting so much easier to then swap pickups and you might just find the pickups ain't as bad as you thought 😊 could save you a bucket load of cash 🤑

(P-bass standard loom as above £27 posted UK from me).

John

Steve ordered a couple of looms from me, absolute pleasure to deal with, spot on comms. instant payment, excellent transactions.

Deal with Steve with confidence, top fella. 👍

VOLTAROL GEL? 

Both Kaz and I swear by it, it's the only product that works for us, tried many! Luckily can get it on prescription, but if you have to buy it - definitely worth a punt 👍

https://www.voltarol.co.uk/products/topical-gels/#:~:text=You can use Voltarol gels,%2C ligaments%2C muscles and joints.

Your domestic speaker wire will do just fine, or if you'd like a bit of 16/0.2 PVC insulated - which I use most often - PM me and I'll send you a bit or two 😉

Dave bought a pair of P-bass knobs, great guy to deal with.

Cheerz, John

IME any aerosol/propellant/solvent etc. sprayed into pots does more harm than good - long term. Pots like CTS have a lubricant grease around the shaft when made, any solvent disolves the grease and make a horrible mess on the tracks and wipers. You might get away with a tiny squirt accurately placed but - - - 🤪

Just my tuppence worth!

4 hours ago, MartinB said:

I've got one like this and it sounds good to me. With tone all the way up, less of the high frequencies will be sent to ground compared to a 250k pot, so it'll sound brighter. Turn it down halfway and it'll sound the same as a fully-open 250k tone control. The capacitor doesn't do anything interesting until you roll the tone down below ~20%, at which point you start to get a small bump in the low mids. Compared to a standard 47nF cap, a 68nF will create a smaller peak and it'll be at a lower frequency - like 200Hz rather than 350Hz. It'll also roll off more of the high frequencies at this point.
 

He's about right you know 😉 said it all really 👍

In the 70's a brilliant guitarist joined us,  he would dress the part and play absolutely like his heroes, Jimi Hendrix and Carlos Santana, Tony Iommi and more! TBH he took our band to another level 🤩

A original '51 please, nothing could be finer 😉

But I'll have to put up with my MIJ '51P reissue 😁

Four mates who all lived within spitting distance, each had a guitar, so we got together 'as they say', I was 12 or 13, so 1963/4. Roger had a decent 6 string, Frank was a leftie, his Mum bought him a special, Derek's older brother gave him a set of old drums, my Dad made a bass for me and that was it! Months of practise later we were playing at youth clubs, then bolder and braver gigs at village halls etc. followed by years of swapping players/bands gigging local but never 'making it big' 😐

I made a Jazz bass complete drop in kit for Jacek, absolute pleasure to deal with, great comms and instant payment, perfect transaction.

Beautiful and a lotta bassfor the money 👍

A little exercise 🤪 with a amp connected to a 'good' mains supply, speaker/s connected to the amp and a instrument lead plugged in, switch the amp on and you will surely hear a small amount of hiss and hum, touch any metal part of the amp or the earth part of the lead and this will diminish as it is using your body as 'further earthing'.

Same when you plug the instrument lead into the bass, given a good connection you will probably still hear a tiny reduction in background noise when you touch conductive and earthed parts.

Anything more significant means you're not getting a good earth to your bass/guitar whatever.

Do you have  multimeter? It's possible that the coil windings are shorting out.

What do you mean by; "and they're linked at the tone pot anyway"?

Cheerz, John

The wiring looks correct so could well be the tone pot or maybe the cap. have gone open circuit, do you have a multimeter?

3 hours ago, fretmeister said:

... I'm currently awaiting a delivery from @KiOgon for one of his solderless P bass looms!  

So much easier!

Hey Paul,

Should have been there by now, collected Saturday but I just checked the tracking - no delivery attempted yet!

Hope they get their finger out 👉

👍 looks good 😉

And - especialy if you have the star washers supplied, (or even left them out), the pots in contact with your copper tape shielding will give pretty good connection to the earth in my loom via the metal pot bodies, so no real need for an extra earth wire from your tape to earth.

Cheerz, John

Hey Mick, It looks like you have the pickup wires reversed in the terminals, I'm not certain from the pic. but the outer terminals, (right hand), should be earth/black/negative and the terminal that goes to the centre tag on the pots is the live/white or yellow/positive.

Assuming your green and yellow is connected to the shielding somewhere or is it going to the bridge? That should also be as shown on my connection diagram.

Cheerz, John

4 hours ago, TheGreek said:

I thought that he'd stopped making looms. I'll PM him any way...

 

Thanks

 

Whatever gave you that idea 😁

Send it down to me if you want - PM me.

Cheerz, John