Aussiephoenix

[quote name='EdwardHimself' post='25557' date='Jul 1 2007, 11:37 AM']what an idiot! Trading an esh for an olp MM[/quote] well, He's just not one of those guys that would bother putting in the restoration work that the Esh required, And he liked the sound of my OLP to turn it into a fretless. ARGH, does it look better now or in its gothic state?

hmmm, that looks interesting... by the link it looks like a DIY Bass Cab... so whats the story with this "Bill Fitzmaurice" fellow? I can detect some reverence in your statements

And just "what" is "that" finn? Looks like some really old amp with a strange homebrew(?) cab... interesting design.

I've got one of those warwick 5 instrument stands, thats where I keep the ones that I use the most. the others I have them in their cases, upright in a perfectly sized section of the wardrobe.

that saves money too, as you dont have to buy an xmas tree, just put the presies under the rack

[quote name='MikeB' post='20215' date='Jun 19 2007, 02:52 PM']I used to have a MM Stingray, sold it and now play Mexican Jazz similar to yours. Actually prefer this to the Stingray so don't assume the Stingray is better without making sure![/quote] +1 Nothing wrong with Mexi Jazzes... I think people sometimes confuse lack of quality control with lack of quality. Not the same thing... My Mexi Classic 60's can kick it up there with the rest of the recent MIAs Nice Jazz mate

[quote name='BigRedX' post='22388' date='Jun 23 2007, 05:08 PM']That Esh looks tasty! Any chance of some more pics? Headstock looks interesting...[/quote]

[quote name='silverfoxnik' post='22144' date='Jun 22 2007, 09:54 PM']Nice looking basses! How do you find the MTD like for sound and playability? I had the passive model and it played great but the stock p/ups weren't too good. Great neck and a fantastic B' string! Nik[/quote] Well, I absolutely love the neck. its nice and wide, but with a thin profile. very confortable for slap,etc, not cramped at all. I wouldnt know about the original electronics, as I already got this one with the SD stuff. Sounds great with it. it has a little of the musicman vibe, lots of low end, with crisp highs. I've only got it recently, so cant go too much in depth about it yet

Something seriously wrong with that picture... that wouldnt be a customshop, at least the pickguard wouldnt be, it looks too much like someone's rough sketch... or the pup combo... Even if that is "vintage", Vintage basses lose a lot of their value the further away they are from their original state.

These are my babies: [b]Fender Jazz Bass "Classic 60's" (Custom)[/b] My first "real bass"... tried to sell it a bunch of times when gassing for other gear, but I'm too sentimentally attached to it, simply cant follow through with it. Its got custom designed pups, Vol-BLEND-Tone and a Schaller 2000 Bridge [b]Esh Stinger V "Real Gothic" (Custom)[/b] This bass has history. used to be used on tours by my (ex)bass prof, in Portugal's most wellknown metal band "Moonspell". It was all beat up and cobwebbed in the corner, when jokingly, I offered my olp mm2 for trade, and the guy accepted. The black finish has been stripped, the Esh-tronics replaced with an Artec 3Band preamp. It's my main bass. [b]MTD Kingston 5 (Custom)[/b] This is my latest acquisition, it came with a Seymour Duncan Basslines SMD-5B Pickup and a STC-3M3 & STC-3M4 preamp (9-36v). It also has a coil tap 3way mini-switch.

ok, now this is something I wanted to do for kicks, as I have 2 small neon tubes (from PC tuning,etc) hanging around the house... though I'd like to go a little further... but I dont know how. The idea is to make the neons react (shifting in intensity) to the input level (clipping?) so that it would get more intense on harder picked notes and softer on lightly picked ones. Does anyone have any Idea of how to do this?

[quote name='ShaunB' post='10932' date='Jun 2 2007, 10:05 AM']Hi OG, ...thanks for the pdf - I'll take a gander. From my readings (at least 10 times through the manual now - very un-manly!) I think I need to create my own patches which are simply just Chorus, or Phaser etc. But then if you want the auto-wah you have to click the pre-set patch pedals and hunt up and down - it really must be easier... Self-help group? Count me in! (is there tea and biscuits?) ...it all started when the guitarists said, "so, who's gonna play bass?" doctor... Let me know when you get the box... it is a sturdy, but rather expensive tuner...[/quote] What I've done is change its mode so that within the patch, I can have each of the pedals assigned to a certain effect toggle ie.: Compressor - Distortion - Chorus - Bypass // WAH say I want (for a different song for example) the same kind of setup but with a diferent distortion and phaser instead of chorus. I copy the existing patch over to the next (overwriting the existing crappy user patch) and edit each pedal setting as I want it. resave over the same (new) patch again. Over all, there's a few things to mind... The preamp/sim section to me is for small adjustments only if you go to a basshead from there... it can easily sound crappy when boosted. Usually I dont even use anything from the preamp/sim section. just the fx, and I EQ at my AMP. there's also a trick on the manual to setting it to true-bypass, though I dont know exactly how "true" that is, never tried it. Also, the master pot on the back shouldnt go over the white mark... abuse it and get a nasty buzz sound. which you can control with the Noisegate. something important too is the sequence of pedals/FX that can be edited through the MAster settings button (IIRC).

Usually you'd want to heat up the fretboard a little with a hot air gun, to facilitate the removal of the frets without chipping.

[quote name='TheRev' post='16271' date='Jun 12 2007, 03:00 PM']I've put EMG pickups and EQ on one of my basses running on 18v. It certainly seems to have boosted the output - it's now on a par with my 9v MM Sterling![/quote] Just the output? no change in bass "voice"?

I started out as a Passive jazz player. eventually got into the active basses, but always 9v preamps... I'm looking at buying another active bass, and I was amazed when the guy I'm going to buy it from told me that I can use UP to 4 9v Batteries, so a total of 36v!!! Has anyone had any experience with preamps of the kind? what is the real difference? just volume? are there any sort of guidelines for using these preamps?

I've pulled the trigger on a "Keytone" acoustic bass that was about 60£ looks a lot like the original poster's bass. I had it a total of 5 days. it went on sale 1 day after it arrived. Absolute C%#P. the neck was all warped, shocking fretwork, the only thing that was nice about it is that it hadnt fallen part yet, and it was a nice blueburst. It was mailed to me inside an acoustic GUITAR gigbag (forced in by the look of it) and covered with 2 carboard acoustic bass boxes.. I wasnt happy, but at least I ended up selling it, without hiding any of its problems, for more than I bought it for. lol.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='14299' date='Jun 8 2007, 05:32 PM']I'm still curious though - how much does it weigh and how much current can it supply?[/quote] These are the specs: Input Voltage: de 174 a 263V Frequency: 50/60 Hz Max Current: 9 A Output Voltage: 230V +-3% Frequency: 50/60 Hz Nom. Power: 1500 VA Noise: <40dB Size: rack unit 1x19” Weight: 7Kg [quote name='Dan_Nailed' post='15310' date='Jun 10 2007, 10:32 PM']And if you saw some of the places I've played, then inconsistent wall current IS a problem let me assure you! You never know what;s running off those sockets, sometimes the PA, monitors and lights are all off the same electrical ciruit and spikes are massively common. Also when you've got drunk folks walking around with beer it's nice to have something keeping your rig from giving a blue flash and going quiet! Plus it provides light and direct EEC to EEC outlets.[/quote] Yep, I agree. I'ts very common out here to have fridges, neons etc all connected to the same circuit that will feed the band's equipment. not only will that cause a lot of noise in our equipment as alternators etc turn on and off, as well as making the current very unstable. The way this works, is that it basically stores power, and constantly checks the input and compensates or holds back its reserved power so that you ALWAYS have that constant 230. the equipment works better, there's less noise, etc. mind you, this kind of unit is probably close to useless for someone thats not a gigging musician, but I consider it a must for those who are, and dont want to have nasty surprises... the Bar owner wont pay for your amp if something blows.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='14150' date='Jun 8 2007, 12:54 PM']Interesting - few power conditioners do that. Which model is it? Alex[/quote] Thats my point though... POWER CONDITIONERS DON'T do that. VOLTAGE REGULATORS do. Its a Quick Lok SR-1500 (its hard to find info on the web about it.) I tell ya, I was amazed when I started using it, cause its not until then that you realize how much the voltage actually shifts and changes in places you thought "safe". I constantly see the leds change between 220 - 240 and in some places its been as low as 180 and as high as 250v. Even though the amps etc may be ready for that, having a CONSTANT 230v (in my case) feeding the amp has got to be a lot healthier than having too little to too much voltage circling through the components right?

I was surprised to see that people here actually like Warwick strings... it all comes down to taste I guess, but I've always had a huge dislike for Warwick strings... the only good thing about them for me is their cost (usually, I see... lol) Usually I find them to be really rough on the fingers, they go dead really fast, and they have no flexibility whatsoever. I usually use Ernieballs, Rotosounds or D'Addario Prosteels depending on the bass.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='13131' date='Jun 6 2007, 04:46 PM']Regarding the three points: 1. Does it actually regulate the voltage or does it just tell you if the voltage is not optimal? If it does regulate the voltage how much current can it deliver? 2. A simple surge protected power strip can do this at far less cost and weight. 3. Any half-decent rack gear should not need A/C filtering. Alex[/quote] 1 - It does both. a little light goes on saying what the incoming voltage is, but the output voltage is regulated to the machine's standards, in my case, living in Europe, 230V. as for 2 and 3, I agree, but for 2, I feel much better protected, and as for 3, mark bass is awesome, but i have noticed a difference. and I wont even tell you about my gallien krueger... that was noisy as a mofo... trust me, before I bought it, I had trouble justifying it too... now, im really glad that I've bought it.

I dont "lift" cabs... My ebs proline 2000 is probably as heavy as they come for a 4x10 (specially considering its small size). When the guy I bought it from brought it over, he had this little folding cart thing, I made him throw it in the deal

I've got a Fender doublebag, I've had it for at least a year and a half now, and its still tip top... Im confident mine will last a long time still... It depends how well you treat it I suppose.

[quote name='Lee-Man' post='12941' date='Jun 6 2007, 11:43 AM']My NYC seems to be abit lighter than the Metros I've played, theres not much in it though. I belive the now dufunct Tokyo series have a standard size jazz body (Sadowskys are normally slightly undersized) and the pickups are placed in the '70's Fender position. The tokyo's sound more like a '70's Jazz than the 'standard' Sadowskys. I'm a massive Sadowsky fan, in my eye's they are all fine basses at the top of their game.[/quote] The Tokyos are active/passive as usual for Sadowskies right? I imagine the preamp and the pups themselves are the same build and the truer 70's jazz sound is mainly from the body diference and the pup placement...

Hey guys. I've had a chance to try out some NYC's and a Metro, and truth be told I didn't see THAT much difference... I'm completely at a loss for the Tokyo series... Can anyone enlighten me on the Tokyo line history, and make some kind of comparison as far as construction/sound quality in relation to the other two? Cheers.