Thanks a lot for helping out guys.
[quote name='neepheid' post='728619' date='Jan 29 2010, 12:52 PM']5) Difficult to say - just don't place them too close together or there won't be enough tonal difference to justify having 2 pickups.
[color="#0000FF"]So, its a Guesstimate... There are no real guidelines apart from the distance between pups keeping in mind their magnetic fields[/color]
7) Make sure you go deep enough for the pots to come through the top. I speak from experience, I guestimated the control cavity on Rich's (Ou7shined) holey head Jazz and had to go in again twice because of continual over cautiousness with the depth of cut. Repositioning a template over an existing hole isn't ideal, best get it done in one.
[color="#0000FF"]I was wondering how you'd go about finding that right depth... my guess would be:
( (height of pot "screw" - (height of washer + nut) ) - height of body )[/color]
9) I do mine 90 degrees. Also don't mess about - use a drill press. You'll never do them well freehand.
[color="#0000FF"]I dont have a Drill Press... Actually its something I've been meaning to buy anyway...[/color]
10) I don't think you'll need to bury the tailpiece, there should be more than enough height difference between it and the bridge saddles, even at their lowest. Distancewise, it's difficult to say. It's mostly aesthetic and practical considerations. Obviously not too close. Too far will look stupid. The 2 piece bridge may be ruled out by your bridge position.
[color="#0000FF"] The body isnt terribly long on this bass, so, I may have to rethink the 2 piece bridge or do something a little bolder... have to see when I have all the pieces...[/color]
11) It's possible. Your best bet would be to cut right off the curvy/irregular stuff on the bottom/end edge of the headstock so you have a flat area to glue. Glue ought to be stronger than the wood. Use the same type of wood (maple I'm guessing), use good quality wood glue and apply good clamping pressure for several hours (or even overnight)
[color="#0000FF"] Stupidly, I didnt think of that... I meant to shape the pieces to glue, but that sounds a much better approach[/color]
12) Shape the headstock first. I apply veneer in this (probably wrong) way - flatten the veneer if it isn't already, cut the veneer roughly to size, apply a thin layer of wood glue to the headstock with a roller, apply the veneer, position it, put an old t-shirt on top then place an iron on it (no steam) to speed up glue setting. Be very careful not to move/dislodge the veneer during this process. After you're done, trim round the veneer with a very sharp knife. Be very careful at corners, the veneer will love to split along its grain. It might be better to trim it close then sand it flush with some fine sand paper (200-400 grit so it doesn't snag the veneer and split it).
[color="#0000FF"] I like the idea of shaping the headstock first, But since the "Veneer" isnt really really thin like most, I was thinking on trimming the headstock in depth to compensate for the extra height the veneer will have... Think that would be a bad idea? to illustrate what I mean, say that the lateral profile of the headstock is 2cm high... and I have 2 pieces of veneer 0.5cm high, so I'd shave the headstock down top and bottom by 0.5cm and after placing the 2 layers of veneer and pressing it all together, I'd be left with a 2cm profile again (ignore the measurements, just to facilitate the visualization)... I figure if I dont do that, the extra height might interfere with the Tuner shaft height[/color][/quote]
[quote name='Al Heeley' post='728628' date='Jan 29 2010, 12:59 PM']Second, have you drawn out the entire guitar, life-size, on a soutable roll of paper? This will help you make templates & take measurements to determine the exact location of pickups, neck, bridge, etc.
Use the plan to draw a side-view section, including height of bridge saddles, right along to the nut, then you can see if the height is right for the design.
[color="#0000FF"] I havent done that yet, but that's a great Idea. It'll help put all the loose thoughts into perspective[/color]
Right place for pickups - that's up to you but use the existing well known basses as your guide. They say Leo Fender was pretty good at this sort of thing - take a lead from his example.
[color="#0000FF"] Yeah, but I'll be using soapbar humbuckers... still, guiding myself from other existing models is a good idea, though there are so many different approaches... I'll have to do some research to find the pup positions that agree with me[/color]
Cavity routing: a lot of people use a Forstner bit to get the hole started, or a conventional 8 or 12mm drill bit, removing as much of the wood as possible first before starting to rout. Only trouble is you have to watch you don't drill too deep.
Templates are essential - I make mine from MDF, use a follower router bit with a bearing. You can buy templates for some guitars and pickups, you can make them yourself with care and a fretsaw or jigsaw.
[color="#0000FF"] Right, but in order to make the template, I should make the template hole bigger to accomodate the bearing, right? I also assume that I shouldnt try to dig the router bit straight in, but instead slowly deepen the hole (by layers)? [/color]
13) Maybe not a great idea, bear in mind you want to keep string travel thru nut to tuner posts as straight a path as possible.
[color="#0000FF"] I'll have to see what I'm left with once I've got the extra width on the headstock to work with, thanks for the tip though.[/color]
14) See the jack placement on a Dingwall bass - they are great. Don't bite off more than you can chew for your first project!
[color="#0000FF"] Actually I quite like that Idea, It doesnt fit my body perfectly as I dont have that "wave" at the end, but it's given me a new idea that just might work out better than what I'd thought originally. Cheers!
This is my first "Complex" Build, but I've gone through quite a few mods to my Frankensteins, and I've learned a lot from my previous mistakes. I'll try to keep my mouth closed while chewing