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Downunderwonder

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Posts posted by Downunderwonder

  1. 7 hours ago, Franticsmurf said:

    Technically, I'm the bassist in a band called 'New Dog Old Tricks' which formed in 2022 and played one gig. While we never formally disbanded, all four of us are in other bands and haven't got together as a quartet since August 22. I sense the opportunity for a reunion gig sometime in the future as we're all still on friendly terms. 

     

     

     

    You could rename it "Exit Strategy" and do a couple of gigs a year. 

    • Haha 1
  2. Re the Trace rig I don't doubt that the mix'n'match combination sounds quite fine.

     

    Most likely the tens are quite bass capable so rearranging everything into a strictly hifi 3 way setup would wind up hifi but wasteful and a lot less loud.

     

    15 and tens sharing lows and mids in a two way with the 5's doing the highs all nicely aligned might sound pretty hifi and retain the loud.

  3. 35 minutes ago, Pea Turgh said:

    2x One10’s/ 1x Two10 are plenty for an average pub rock gig.

    Tell that to the seppos!

     

    There's 210's up for sale in the classifieds pretty regularly. Tells me they might be just a bit shy of what's needed for the louder pub band.

     

    Snag a 210 and see before getting involved with 110's is my advice. If it's only getting warmed up on gigs then grab a pair of the 110's which usually come up singly so you can collect at leisure and flip the 210.

     

    You equally might find you want another 210. One man's loud is another's tea party.

  4. 5 hours ago, chris_b said:

    We all have our budgets and preferences, but if someone thinks their Fender Custom Shop instrument is worth £5000, then it is.

    Yup. I supspect those people are far too busy making pots of money to be posting about bass toys on the internet.

     

    I have owned a few latish model Fenders. Nothing from the last ten years. They had no obvious areas that could be improved. So I am not in seeing value in 5k£ versions.

    • Like 1
  5. Just now, rushbo said:

    E: Take your bass to the nearest shop that sells make-up and beauty supplies. Find a nail polish that's the closest match to the colour of your bass. Carefully apply the nail polish to the chip, building it up in layers if the chip is deep. You may need to gently sand it with a high grade of sandpaper to smooth it out. It might not be perfect, but your eye won't be drawn to the dink. Keep the nail polish to treat the inevitable dinks and scratches that a gigging bass will get.  

    Have you done this? I think it could be a good way to get arrested. Offensive instrument brandished in public.

    • Thanks 1
  6. If you only play a bass at home you might be able to keep it quite shiny and unmarked by playing in your PJ's and always putting it straight back in its case. Imagine how ticked off you would be to mark it after 5 years of keeping it pristine.

     

    Taking it out into the world to be used you got zero chance of it lasting 5 years. You are just ticked off that it happened already.

     

    Not the same level of ticked off I hope. If it is you have bigger problems.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  7. 23 minutes ago, warwickhunt said:

     

    I'm always sceptical when terms like 'full power' are used; is full power when the output gain/volume/dial is on max rotation and the input gain/volume/dial is turned sufficient to get a clip light indication or till it starts to distort?  I know of clip lights that are set to come on before any clipping and some that vary colour (green, amber, red) depending on how close to clipping but would you only be full power if in the red, if not how can a musician at a gig/rehearsal tell when full power is achieved without taking multi-meter readings? 

     

    Genuine question not any form of dig.  

    When gains are turned up to no avail either the amp has run out of poke or the speaker is either overheating or distorting, or both, or all at the same time.

     

    I don't know that I could tell only from listening where a distortion was originating. My experience and knowledge of gear would guide me.

     

    Since the OP speaker hasn't died the OP must be sensitive to the signs or the amp hasn't enough poke. As he is asking what he should do I can't give him enough credit to recognise the signs therefore the amp is lacking the poke at 8ohm to kill the cab. It is at full output with the one cab.

     

    I could be wrong. There is a bit of reading between lines.

    • Like 1
  8. You are having the cake and eating the cake at the same time. I put a little delay on it is all.

     

    With a class D amp you don't get the double power to go with the impedance halving that used to be the case with solid state amps. So something less than 6dB extra unless TC have gone back to A/B somewhere along the line.

     

    Quid pro quo the available 8 ohm voltage is not actually maintained at the rated 4 ohm balls out level.

  9. 7 hours ago, Bill Fitzmaurice said:

    You can't leave half a 210 at home when you only need a 110.

    The corollary is you can't easily add a 210 to 110 and 110 if you are needing to get loud sometimes. You could do a series cable setup for the 110 pair but the haulage would be a phaff compared to 210 and 210 

     

    So there is the rub.

     

    Carry more than you need sometimes. Or not be able to expand it so easily.

     

    Really depends on how often you would be comfy  using just 110 and how you value that extra ease.

  10. 6 hours ago, Bill Fitzmaurice said:

    Doubling the cab count gets you 6dB of additional sensitivity/maximum output, which is the equivalent of increasing power by a factor of four.

    I was accounting for the actual increased power output separately to the sensitivity advantage. 

  11. It's one thing to split. Another altogether to recombine. There's a whole raft of stuff I wrote on this back when I was doing it, so it's all on the other side of the Atlantic centric forum.

     

    Short version. Distortions and chorus among others return the signal out of phase with what went in. This is of no consequence when pedals are in series full range.

     

    Different story when reblending an effected return with its original low end to send to the amp. At the crossover frequency they cancel one another out.

     

    It's more complicated when you run multiple pedals and some return out of phase and some do not and sometimes you have more than one running at the same time.

     

    Leaving aside the fact that some pedals are some other degree of delayed than 180°, two phase flippers in series returns an in phase signal.

     

    I had a very complicated arrangement of a bigarse blender with phase control on multiple channels so that I could always have a full lush result.

     

    Rolls sx21 crossover did the split.

    • Like 2
  12. Drivers usually measure DC resistance a significant amount under the impedance rating.

     

    I don't know about almost half but it could go some way to explaining why it didn't sound right. Usually they blow fully open circuit but I guess it could short instead?

    • Like 1
  13. 16 minutes ago, Lozz196 said:

    I think I’d capitalise on the Fender Rumble 112 by getting another one, then add in an amp head of choice - to be safe I’d look at a 500 watt head so as to not have to push it.  Plenty of choice out there, and especially on here. 

    This. You may even find the full TC wattage through twin cabs quite loud enough without need of MOAR POWER.

     

    Two cabs is like having 2 times the watts just for being more efficient at converting power into sound than one cab. Then you actually do get something like half as much power again out of the amp at 4 ohms, so there's an extra kick from that too.

     

    TLDR, two cabs is vastly louder than one cab when there is a small amp.

    • Like 1
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