Downunderwonder

Soft bags for the win.

That's a lot roomier than I remember the original MX5 boot. It has some depth to it. So long as the cab foot print goes into the dropout section you are good for a much bigger cab overall than what I imagined.

If a box doesn't drop straight in and stay under the lid you are screwed out of a huge amount of cabinet size. It has to go through the opening, rotate and lie down.

Suitcases have quite rounded edges and corners. Googling the biggest carry on suitcase mx5 model could really stuff things up.

If it is close I would make a cardboard mockup just to be sure.

Perhaps they aren't quite as incompetent as all that and have refunded the insufficient postage?

9 hours ago, BassmanPaul said:

Simplest is to measure the 2x10 and build two boxes half the size of the 2x10. That way the speakers should be happy in their new home.

 

This.^

If it is shelf ported you could run it through the centre, slap new sides on and call it good.

That would only work for a tall skinny 210 as opposed to one that is squat with diagonally mounted drivers.

You want to maintain the cross sectional area amd length of the ports, half the area for each cabinet. Half the original cab volume each.

It serves notice to anyone thinking of doing the same.

It might be a lot harder than you imagined.

You need to be careful not to take away plywood in your enthusiasm. The individual plys are very slim.

Strip the glue rather than sand it.

10 hours ago, Huge Hands said:

mk1

Mk1 boot is tiny. It would be a small 12" cab that would go in. A slimmer 210 might be a better bet and another in a waterproof bag on one of those boot lid racks.

54 minutes ago, Quilly said:

I sub in and out for a jazz band and their bass player has an elf also , I used his rig once and for some reason the sound he was getting was much cleaner and warmer than mine , I noticed he had the gain up at 3 O,clock , the bass up well past 2 o clock , and the treble , mids and volume down really low. Just used the volume for more, well volume. I tried this and got the same effect with my own amp. Just a funny setup but gave a great tone . 

You like the warm fuzzies without the fuzz.

Gain at 3 o'clock shoukd be pushing into the preamp to where it warms and compresses. If you turn up the volume you get loud warm and compressed and lows get more prominent.

It depends on what you mean by handle low B string. It is the 30hz to 80hz content that is the concern.

Most modern 12" bass cabs will handle it pretty well with a high pass filter to snuff out the 30hz content and let through some 60hz.

The higher performing ones folks are recommending you can make that 60hz quite loud.

None of them will produce audible 30hz so a HPF is still a very handy thing. A lot of players even take out a bit of the 60 to 80hz. Their cab is too good at making it and the tone gets to be wallowing in lows.

On 19/03/2025 at 02:33, kwmlondon said:

I mean, that's just £20 for goodness sake, I'd be hard pushed to buy some hinges and velcro for that...

I made one out of cardboard, for free. Duct tape is extra. 

1 hour ago, Pea Turgh said:

their site doesn’t appear to work very well on a mobile.

When that happens I select "desktop site" on the phone browser. It doesn't always work but usually I can zoom in on the good bits.

16 minutes ago, FlyStraight99 said:

Thanks ! Out of curiosity what does that do? I’m new to this stuff.  

It creates a woolley mess of low frequencies.  As far as I can figure they ostensibly represent the higher harmonics of the note an octave below the one you played.

4 hours ago, BassmanPaul said:

The difference between an amplifier designed for 4Ω loads and one for 2Ω loads is very little.

Tell that to ICE Power.

The general rule is no free lunch, ever. I surmise 2 ohm operation costs something significant.

44 minutes ago, chris_b said:

 

Err. . . . you have to click on following, unless you have a different setting to me. I've commented several times in this thread and I'm not following..

This rogered me when the forum changed over.

I was directed look to the left of the thread topic, there is a star, or a dot if you read it and didn't comment previously.

I am not "following" anything either. If I "follow", the email gets chocka with notices.

And welcome to the low end.

The Subharmonic button needs to be monitored that it is in the off position before playing.

12 minutes ago, MartinB said:

Plugging anything into the headphone socket on the rear panel should disable the speaker - even just a dummy plug

Given the state of the canine breakfast the accent is on the SHOULD.

Any bets it won't disable the DI at the same time?

18 hours ago, Dad3353 said:

The simple 'work-around' would be to not touch the Master volume after the FOH levels have been set. Not so much different as turning up the bass volume after having the FOH set. Why would anyone want/need to do this, anyway, once the sound-check is over..? If turning it up affects the FOH, the sound person will presumably just turn it back down, no..? 

OP is an edge case. He runs IEM sometimes, but doesn't own a preamp or a DI except for what is aboard the Rumble combo.

When going IEM he has no use of the combo speaker, it's so much unwanted noise, but he can't run zero volume without also cutting the DI output to zero.

Capiche?

4 minutes ago, agedhorse said:

The power of a square wave is equal to the RMS power of a sine wave and 1/2 the power (.707 x the voltage) of the peak power of a sine wave.  

Isn't that what I said??

Sine peak volts X to -X

Square X/X

Power twice as much for the square.

Sometimes I feel I am losing my mind.

Work around round 2: install a switch to cut out the speaker.

11 hours ago, Count Bassie said:

The math before me is like an irritating repellant before a garden-pillaging rodent. 😂

Ok, fair enough, I stand corrected.

If you search for a picture of RMS of a sine wave it will show the RMS point at .707 of the clean peak.

The RMS of a pure square wave is the full peak value.

Power is Current x Voltage.

Current is Voltage ÷ Resistance.

Substituting for Current we see Power is Voltage squared ÷ Resistance.

Noting that 0.707 is 1÷ square root of 2,

The power of the square wave is double the RMS power of the clean sine.

Trace rating an amp as 250W/500W Peak, maybe a little off the wall as nobody would pay to listen to one putting out the full 500W for more than a few microseconds, could handle mighty transient peaks.

Does this case make my amp look big?

Trace Elliot Transit-B.

Use the fx send to another DI.

1 hour ago, Count Bassie said:

The guy who's been repairing my amps the last 6 or so years there me that measuring at 1KHz takes less power than lower frequencies, so the rated power brings a higher number. This is incorrect? 

 

That is only relevant to speaker handling power at fequency vs volume achieved aka sensitivity.

Speaker Output at lower frequency suffers from lack of power handling.

Power is the integral of applied voltage over time x current / time. Aka average power.

Using root mean square takes care of the alternating current being negative half the time, so RMS voltage x impedance gives power. It is independent of frequency.

Adds up to your bass speaker can scream a 1000hz 250w signal for maybe half an hour, or whatever Agedhorse says, but drop dead in half a second with 30hz 250w.

Dude in grey Tshirt:

 🤨 "shouda brung his other 212".  

Assured destruction.

Combo Line Out at least gives a fighting chance for the 10" PA unit to contribute.

You would need all four running at low volume to save them from the bass and hear anything useful.