warwickhunt

Quality bit of kit, I use one of these with my electric bass as a preamp to feed PA/IEM (and direct to bass amps when need be); the HPF is invaluable.  Oh and I use it with my acoustic guitar on those alternative gigs!

Thanks for your input, I assume you see these basses for sale week in week out? 

I am a bit puzzled by your expanded comments as at no point have I indicated that this is the original model (I've had one of those as well) but I'm pretty sure my description of the mag and piezo pups is correct; I certainly didn't mention that that this bass has a drop tuner or an inlaid serial number.  In fact nothing in your comment is applicable to my description of this bass, so I'm not sure of their relevance.  My comment re. later Ibanez designs based on this design is in fact a reference to all of the later Ergodyne and similar basses... maybe I should have made that 100% clear

The only point of possible relevance is that in your opinion it isn't rare.  In my opinion it is rare and I'll let potential buyers research and see how many of these they can find for sale today in comparison to basses that certainly aren't rare and they can form their own opinion.

In almost new condition with a stupidly low action (possibly too low for some people but I can tweak it if needs be).  

Not to be confused with the base model.

COLOUR: 3-Colour Sunburst with Aged White body binding

BODY MATERIAL: Nato

BODY FINISH: Gloss Polyurethane

NECK: Maple, “C” Shape

NECK FINISH: Tinted Gloss Urethane

FINGERBOARD: Indian Laurel, 9.5” (241 mm) radius

FRETS: 21, Narrow-Tall

POSITION INLAYS: Pearloid Dot

NUT (MATERIAL/WIDTH): Bone, 1.650” (42 mm)

TUNING MACHINES: Vintage-Style

SCALE LENGTH: 25.5” (648 mm)

PICKUP: Fender Designed Alnico Single-Coil

BRIDGE: 3-Saddle Vintage-Style Strings-Through-Body Tele® with Chrome Barrel Saddles

PICKGUARD: 3-Ply Parchment

KNOBS: Knurled flat-top

HARDWARE FINISH: Nickel

Supplied with a gigbag.  Will be well padded/boxed if you want it couriered in the UK.

As rare as hen's teeth and not to be confused with some of the later cheaper Ibanez designs based on Rolf Spuler's basses.

It has a half through neck construction with a maple body attached to a graphite reinforced maple neck with a 24-fret ebony fingerboard with offset abalone dot position markers at the twelfth fret. The body has a sculpted, asymmetrical double cutaway design originated by Rolf Spuler with distinctive, narrow, curving horns; the AFR logo is inlaid into the guitar top between the pickup and bridge. Components include a single Bartolini X44JX split single-coil pickup mounted halfway between the bridge and neck, an Ibanez two-band EQ w/ piezo active tone control, stainless steel frets, a Mono-rail V bridge with integrated AeroSilk piezos and 19mm string spacing, a barrel-style stereo output jack, a plastic nut and Ibanez tuning machines.

Controls consist of individual volumes for the magnetic and piezo pickups, a stacked 2-band EQ for the magnetic pick and an active tone control for the piezos. The gain of each individual piezo can be adjusted via trimpots accessible from the back of the instrument.

Comes with the original Premium line case (and instruction booklet).  

Oh and it weighs 3.53kg or 7lb 12oz in old money.

This 'definitely' (probably) my last Sandberg!  

SOLD

Good point.  I'll check with the seller that they are cool with me opening it up and I'll give that a look.  TBH if I return it as it operates now, they are left with a pedal that is probably devalued by 50%, so they might as well let me take a look inside!  

New battery is an easy test.  

11 minutes ago, Hellzero said:

Do you use it with a battery or a power supply?

So far 3 different power supplies but not battery.  TBH the single channel (A) use is very healthy and no issues what so ever; it is only when you try to use or combine Ch B.  At this point levels drop off massively.  I've watched multiple user videos on YT and none of the videos show the symptoms that this has.

1 minute ago, Kirky said:

Are you testing it using the XLR, or with an amp, or with headphones directly plugged in?  I've found it behaves very strangely with different headphones.  I've ended up using it as a one channel preamp/DI as well - i haven't had the same problem as you, but I struggle to get a good balance between the channels.

I tried all options!   

2 minutes ago, Al Nico said:

Well, that would be the test. A signal into input 2 is expected to monitor through CH B.

In this case the output is unexpectedly low where it is expected to be similar to CH A

Have you tried switching it off and on again?

Multiple times.  I've also tried setting/unsetting all switches but it's exactly the same each time.  Pretty sure there's something died in Ch B, it'll make a great clean 1 channel preamp/DI but absolutely not fit for the 2 channel purpose or even to use the overdrive (as it is on the B channel).  

Tried plugging 2 basses in (1 in A 1 in B) with A+B disengaged.  Channel A selected and the bass is nice and clear, select Ch B and the bass is inaudible unless the Drive is cranked and there is a low level (massively overdriven by now) output.  Pretty sure that is not how it is meant to work; I've even read the manual.  

I can only surmise that Ch B is fecked!  It can't be used as a 2nd channel nor can it even be summed with A to give a bit of Drive because any combination involving Ch B drops the volume and you'd need to put the Drive on 100% to even hear anything (which would still be loads quieter than A).  

Looks like a repair job or return to seller! 

Agreed and I'm not plugging anything into B but when you plug into the A input and engage A+B button using the switch to go from A > A+B there is a massive volume drop which you can't compensate for (it literally feels like going from 10 down to 1 or 2).  Effectively with a single instrument it is a single channel pedal and trying to add channel B to add drive (or clean) reduces the volume to unusable levels.

I'm now off to plug basses into A and B to see what we get.

To avoid the drop outs you'd be better off avoiding the 2.4 systems as that is where most of the issues occur, however some folk manage perfectly well with them.  

If you want low/no latency you really want to be avoiding the cheapie (sub £60) systems... with the caveat that plenty people manage with the latency (be aware latency is cumulative if you have other digital systems in your pathway; inc radio trans/rec, desks etc). 

I've read the manual, I've watched the videos, so I'm assuming it isn't me using it wrong but I need to check...

Plugged into input A, nothing plugged into input B, volume at 90%, Boost down and all buttons out/EQ centred.  The preamp has a nice healthy output and tone.

Hit channel B button and there is a massive volume drop (huge, almost inaudible).   Back to channel A, engage the A+B button and switch to B (the 2 channels should combine), massive volume drop.  I can increase the Drive setting but channel B is then full on Drive and not much volume, flick back to A and it is back to a healthy setting.

In summary, whenever channel B is engaged there is a huge drop in output.

I've tried engaging various buttons etc but nothing changes that basic issue; neither does increasing the Boost, that simply makes A even louder.  

Is this unit defective or am I missing something? 

Just now, tauzero said:

 

If the active speaker can take both mic level and line level inputs then any preamp pedal should drive it.

I always thought so but I think there was a thread where a certain preamp pedal couldn't provide the appropriate level!  

34 minutes ago, PaulFenderJazz said:

Ah, I wondered that! Is there any guidance on what to look for in a preamp? In my last acoustic group I went from my pedal board via a mixer to the PA, maybe a small (eg 2-3 channel) mixer would solve the problem ??

I wouldn't jump to go down the mixer route yet as I've found most preamp pedals (I have 5 and all do) will drive an active PA cab.  I'm sure someone cleverer than me (i.e. all of the above contributors) will know how many mV etc you need.

14 minutes ago, PaulFenderJazz said:

I was thinking of going a similar route, as I’m also looking to get a back line solution for playing with a band again, but am also wanting a PA solution for potential solo acoustic guitar/singer performances and I’d rather not duplicate gear. Would a pedal board preamp work straight into an active PA speaker as a solution for bass? TIA

Not all pedal preamps are created equal!  I've got several preamp pedals that happily drive an active speaker QSC K10 but I've recently become aware that not every pedal will be guaranteed to do this.  I know the word 'impedance' is the incorrect term to use but effectively the output of the pedal needs to have enough juice to drive the amp section; you'd think being a preamp that this would be a given but apparently not!  

On hold pending.

The fact that the bridge and alignment of the ferrules are 'exactly' as per the Hondo screams that the body is simply a Hondo.

Cant see the neck clearly but the body is a wrong un! 

11 minutes ago, Magister Ludi said:

PM'd

Whats the drill mark on the back?

& what did you string it with btw

Cheers

No drill mark just a little paint chip.    

Strings are nickel 45-105 but I'll need to check brand.

...and free (mainland) UK delivery.

...and free (mainland) UK delivery.

5 minutes ago, police squad said:

so here's a heads up if you want to go wireless

Thomann are doing the MIpro 58 set for £435.00

I paid £579 for mine from cybermarket

https://www.thomann.co.uk/mipro_mi_58rt_58_ghz.htm

 

this is a great system on 5.8 gig, and so far, zero drop out

£435 is less than I paid for mine this year and a good deal.  I've used mine loads (even at rehearsals) and it has been flawless.