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Posts posted by PaulThePlug
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Alternate between, or a bar of each, fretted and open, same note but different tone and timbre...
Throw in the odd 5th and octave in the courus... just to keep the blood flowing and stopping ya fingers nodding off...
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I'd have one... for the draw... you know, just in case...
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Honestly... it could quite easy be a stylish fretboard to body transition with truss rod access. I wouldn't be half surprised... Ibanez 'bring it' with the 'woods 'n looks'
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Nope... you can see the extended neck tonge. But those SR necks... luverly
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I've got the 850...
I went with cheap Adagio Flats... (the Harly B flats look very like the Olympia packaging) replacing the squeaky scratch phoz bronze but might be an issue with the shorter scale length.
Vol balance is 'prolly down to the piezo pickup bar under the bridge.
I removed a spacer packing shim, this allowed a lower action, but also cured the 'bridge roll' of the bridge blade by sitting further down in the block, pushed down nice and square, make sure the pickup bar rests flat and central, in contact with bridge block and bridge blade.
Some pics and blah blah, mind tends to be a corner noodle played mainly unplugged. I likes it.
Oh and pics please... tut tut... you know the house rules.
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This kinda thing...
I looked a while ago and didnt find anything. Don't think these are still made.
@Velarian did a job on a sctatchplate
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I Shot the Serif - JJ 'Curly' Cale
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Blocks... on a P... I thought they were the reserve of a J?
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^ was he the big fella from X Factor?
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Just 'lost it' at Pipers Grip... how juvenile of me.
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Jesus.. thats a big vape or connects to a Dustbin sized bong..
I might have to nip out to the shed, A Team Style...
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Pilot Holes...
Hole Deeper than the screw... Say a Machine Head Screw, drill the depth from the screw point, to the underside of the head... when you secure the machine head there will be a fraction of hole left of the machine head thickness... Same for the bridge... just make sure the hole doesn't go all the way through. If the hole isn't deep enough, it will bottom out and you will strip the head.
As for hole size... drill should be the size (dia) of the shank of the screw, thats less the threads, to small and it will be too tight, rounding the head it, too big and there will not be enough bite for the threads... this can depend on the hardness of the wood, I recommend a try in a scrap piece of wood.
Screwdriver... Cross head screws differ... Pozi, Phillips and JTS.
Use a good fitting screwdriver i also use a layer of plastic sandwich bag between screwdriver tip and screw (bolt head to socket...) to protect the finish.
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Have you got continuity between pickup cavity and control cavity?
Yep... worthwhile having tape that covers the holes, that way the pots are earthed... to the cavity screen, even if you are running a signal earth between them.
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Very Nice... Style instead of Fashion...
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Old Candle or Solid Soap Bar...
Make sure ya pilot holes are deep enough, and the correct size - I'm looking at you headstock wiv ya machine heads and rounded head screws...
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Nice... feels like i'm with you on your journey... and it has a casual air about it.
Love the 3 spots on the forearm contour... pre-worn smooth spots...
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Recovery & Keytar...
Take it Steady Eddie...
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See whats local Gumtree, Face Ache etc... for Bass and Amps...
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Not that critical, but can make teeth itch...
Often as the screws have gone in at an angle, or how the foam is beneath the pup, or has a wire under one side.
I go foam on pickup and make sure wires are pushed down the sides...
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Artec QTP £13
Passive 5 Position Tone Switch, 4 R/C combinations, plus by-pass. Simple install, but 9mm mounting hole...
https://spartanmusic.co.uk/products/artec-electronics-sound-controller-circuits
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POSTED OUT OF TURN... But it's a great tune!
Human Cannon Ball - Webb Wider
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I think the string spacer at the bridge is a Spark Plug Nipple...
Om my he's certainly fücķèdthenut...
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Guitarbuild.co.uk Bass
in Build Diaries
Posted
Lookin good in the sun... likes the pale maple board, not as common...
Mmm... Controls?