Dizzy_G

Loads of lows and very flat, i went for a [url="http://www.talkbass.com/wiki/index.php/Dizzy_G"]fearful 12/6[/url] myself and would recommend.

Don't think my fan has kicked in yet, i have only used in an apartment so far so have not driven it hard yet. Has gotten warm but not hot. The fan is thermal sensing as far as i know and only comes on once it gets very hot, i'd imagine it should be fine.

Used this glue on a fEarful, [url="http://www.everbuild.co.uk/products/9,Adhesives/11,Wood-Adhesives/2"]Everbuild 5 Minute Polyurethane Wood Adhesive Liquid[/url], it worked very well, very strong, not too messy, gap filling (not that it was needed of course) and allowed for a glue and clamp setup. It is set solid in 30mins. Would recommend it for a quick set glue.

Glad you are happy with your buy, I know the feeling and it is one loud amp for its size.

yeah, that one is spot on.

That is fine for your kettle lead, a bit surprised at 10A normally 13A. The more important one would be the internal one, switch it to T2.5A, make sure it is a T rated fuse, if you get a F rated it will blow quicker and possibly as the amp starts. The internal fuse will offer more protection than the one in the plug.

Double check everything before powering up, just check the fuse in you kettle cord, it prob has a 13A fuse in it, if it has a 3A or 5A it might pop. The circuit ratings in the GK manual refer to the socket on the wall and the circuit behind that if you are wondering. It applies to the minimum load the circuit is capable of handling. 10A UK and 15A US, tbh for a domestic supply this would not be an issue. The internal 5A will provide protection to get you started.

I think you would need to be driving the living sh*t out of the amp to get the fuse to blow tbh. Initially I thought the fuses would come only in 2A and 3A ratings, while you have it open you may as well replace the fuse with a 2.5A. Make sure it is T rated and not F. I'm going to replace mine too to be safe, have to open it up once again. Any good electrical store should be able to give you the correct fuse, go to where sparks go as opposed to a chain store, you'll be able to buy one rather than a bag of ten. Are your plugs fused in Australia or is the fuse in the socket?

Hi jonlad1, Yes in Ireland, brought the amp back from the US second hand. Got a great deal on it, love it and not worried about warranty tbh. This mod is entirely up to yourself what to do as any damage done is not covered by GK's warranty or myself, understandably. On the fuse, I will probably make this switch myself now that I have put a bit of thought into it. You can halve the value to 2.5A, ensure it is a T "Time Delay" to allow for more current draw on start up. From Ohms Law, W=V*I, so for 110v we get 110v*5A=550W (T5A Fuse), inversely for 220v we get, 220v*2.5A=550W (T2.5A Fuse). This will do no damage only offer more protection, this fuse will blow quicker than a 5A. [url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/2-5A-T2-5A-250v-Glass-electrosmart/dp/B0036AEQ6U"]This[/url] fuse spec is the perfect replacement @220v operation.

Picture of jumper swap with terminals labelled. Just move the jumper from 100v position to the 220v position and that is it. Just remembered the sticker that says to replace the fuse with the correct rating which would be "T5A 250V" according to the PCB, i can't see GK having two boxes of fuses to be honest, I would imagine EU amps have the same 5A fuse, then again i have known to be wrong, once!

Yep, brought it back from the states. swapped over the jumper and works fine, will post a pic tonight of the jumper and fuse. I didn't change the fuse, not sure if there is a need and the PCB is marked T5A 250V. so a time delay 5A fuse, no mention of a second value. Might e-mail GK and see but i would imagine since it is a 250V fuse it is a one job fits all tbh.

Depending on your PC and sound card you may get low latency, clicking and distortion. I had this and overcame it by using ASIO4ALL driver for the sound card. It bypasses all the internal junk and reduces latency to about 3-4ms. When using a PC I use Bass -> Tascam MP-TB-1 -> Line In on PC -> Guitar Rig & WMP

I moved my jumper, didn't change the internal fuse, the circuit board is screen printed 5A 250v, that is the fuse that is in it so i left well enough alone. The fuse is time delay too. Anybody get word from GK on this? I would imagine both 110v & 220v use the same internal fuse since it is screen printed (could be wrong).

Roll your own amp, [url="http://www.hypex.nl/"]http://www.hypex.nl/[/url] , 180W, 400W & 700W available, think these can be bridged too (don't quote me on that). A guy over on talkbass put a hypex amp into a fEarful cabinet. Hypex now do SMPS to go with these power amps, lots of power, low weight. Hevos, use these modules in their amps [url="http://www.hevos.nl/cms/en/?Products%A0:Amplifiers"]http://www.hevos.nl/cms/en/?Products%A0:Amplifiers[/url]

Hi Lads, I thought i might post details of my [url="http://www.talkbass.com/wiki/index.php/Fearful%E2%84%A2_12/6_%26_15/6"]fEarful 12/6/1[/url]. I'm only playing bass a little over a year, I'm a bit of a DIY'er and needed a cab so the fearful appeared to be a good choice. Cost wise it was more than going and buying a new or a second hand 210/112 etc. but sure hey I got to have some fun building it and learned a bit too in the process. Final Spec is as follows: 12mm 9Ply Birch, all corners & braces rabbet jointed and braces lap jointed, all glued and clamped, no nails or screws. 3012LF, Alpha 6A, ASD1001, Dayton H07E waveguide, Greenboy CBG Crossover, Duke tweet crossover (with tweet defeat switch) Roller finish Tuff Cab™ speaker paint, 63% open area MS Grill , spring loaded handles, plastic corners, all stainless screws. Weight 21kg (A bit of a fatty compared to other 12/6's on talkbass, but i think this is due to the density of the birch ply) Some thoughts, I don't claim to have a golden ear or anything like that but I would compare it to playing through headphones, very clear and even if that makes sense. Also little tweaks to EQ settings gets immediate responses. Playing low B is very clear, no farting, currently I only have 130w going into the cab and it does not even break a sweat and can get loud, will be trying t soon with a bit of a power hike (I would love to hear a 151566 albeit from a distance, they must be earth shattering loud). If I were doing a second one I wouldn't bother with the tweeter, i don't think it really adds much to bass to be honest, live and learn, it is nice to have a full range cab however. Anyhow enough bull from me, Some pics: [url="http://img411.imageshack.us/i/dscf3860.jpg/"][/url] [url="http://img714.imageshack.us/i/dscf3858k.jpg/"][/url] [url="http://img228.imageshack.us/i/dscf3864.jpg/"][/url]

Hi Scott, Checked out the videos, very good info (for me anyhow) and appreciate the effort. Keep up the good work and the videos rolling. I thought the video quality was fine too if that is of any help, it is youtube after all. Thanks, D_G