itu

6 hours ago, Chienmortbb said:

There is no reason why a properly designed and manufactured Class D amp should be unreliable. TVs have been running with SMPS for around 20 years and with Class D amps (albeit lower powered) for almost as long. For example 65" plasma displays/TVs had 700-800W switch mode power supplies and were/are extremely reliable.

I think most of the issues in the "other-than-instruments" SMPS' that I have seen has been poorly designed units without decent ventilation, or cheapo caps. Some of those could be repaired with good components. On the other hand a blown unit tends to blow severely.

I had the V2 few years ago. The only reason I sold it was that I wanted a rack version, and bought the earlier one without keyboard. Fun, to say the least.

"Mojo" meaning the bass has lots of gunk all over it, badly used, owned by someone smoking in chain, and is just plain shi**y. Mojo, my arsch.

Start from triads:

- major

- minor

- aug, dim

Turn them around i.e. start also from third and fifth and listen to them.

Move to 6, 7, maj7, sus4. Explore 7+5, and 7-5.

Write chord charts to a fretboard picture. (Hint: use only three strings, and you can move chords quickly around the fretboard. Lazy guy buys Hellborg's chord book, which does not clarify things too well. But you're not one.)

Play and listen to them. A lot.

Try to understand at least something about basic chord progressions, like 1-4-5-1, and 2-5-1. Then the chords reveal some of their secrets.

Tangled cables, oh dear. I would suggest to learn coiling and buy velcros. Cables have to be treated well. I made my oldest still working cable in 1990's. No issues so far.

People here are arguing about the material, but not its shape. Every shape vibrates in a way that is common to it. BUT here we went to the thin ice again: if the material isn't constant, the vibration can be quite far from the theoretical model.

Take any rod and find its node. It is certain length from the end. Tune a string and you can find the nodes at both ends. Now neck is attached to a heavier shape (body) from its other end... you probably get my point. We have a complex system filled with numerous parameters.

It is pretty meaningless to talk about any single parameter and its meaning to the system, if other parameters are also changing in the comparison. Two wooden necks (or bodies) are practically never the same. Molded plastics (like graphite) could be closer to each other, and perform more equally. But only if the shapes, measures, and all other parameters could be as close as possible.

Please continue the discussion about your personal experiences. After tonewoods you can go to the next level and start tone comparison between paint/lacquer/oil/whatever. (Do not forget to include colours and glossy/matt.)

tce SCF

...and tens of octavers.

10 minutes ago, carlsim said:

...the box I ordered was wired black positive and red negative for some reason and I double checked this with a multimeter.

can I ask what you meant by “the green wire may be a bit cold”? And are you talking about lead free solder? 
 

to clarify, is it just a standard TRS jack I need? That will short the out and sw connections together when a jack plug is plugged in?

If there were ready soldered wires, they should be OK.

Cold means that the tin may have not made a decent contact between the two. This occurs often if the materials move while the tin is cooling down.

Any TRS is fine. Just make sure you solder all wires accordingly. Put the plug into the jack and you can see right away the right order. The ring (SW) and sleeve (GND) will make the contact. TIP is the output.

Have you pushed the element by hand? Does it make any extra noise while you move it? 

Any leaks that are not designed to be there, can be seen like a vacuum cleaner with a perforated tube. The leaks should not exist.

That green one looks very good even without the electronics.

How much is your circuitry consuming energy? Volts and milliamps? Could I put it inside a bass with a battery?

First of all, you seem to have a mono jack in the system. This means continuous drain from the battery. Not good. TRS = tip, ring, sleeve.

The main-PCBA has two contacts, where you have green and white wires. The white one seems to be OUT. This is NOT to be connected to the SW (green wire). Green should be in the ring in the output jack. OUT should be tinned to the tip. This SW and GND produce the connection from the battery.

According to the pics, the black and red battery wires in the PCBA may be wrong way. Red may be the +. Please check it.

I would check the solderings from the blend. The green wire may be a tad cold. From the looks of the pads, I think you are using lead-free, which is more complicated to use than the older 37-63. So go through all contacts you have made. And fix the white-green cable mix in the first phase.

"Upgraded" or "With options"

It should simply say: "modified".

"Vintage" should be "80's".

Please start with a picture of the stuff you have created so far. Text is so limited here.

2 hours ago, Chienmortbb said:

If you put the power into the same cabinet, the relationship...

I am very much aware of this.

At the same time when we mix cabs and amps, the end result (loudness) can be calculated only from the system, not from the individual parts. Smaller wattage, but better sensitivity may be louder, than lots of watts and low sensitivity. And then the flatness of the response, and lowest reproducible f, and so on. (But you, too, know all this.)

I accidentally heard about Norwegian mains which is not very stable. This may be one reason you have issues.

In case you want to go the hard way (i.e. not the @KiOgon way), the pot type for pan is Bourns MN 250k (or the 500k) version.

The popular:

Free - Mr. Big

Paco de Lucia - Alta mar (from One summer night) 

The bit less known:

Jeff Berlin, Pekka Pohjola, Niels-Henning Ørsted-Pedersen, and Edgar Meyer have many very interesting solos.

Black or brown is Live, blue is Neutral, and yellow/green is earth.

Check that earth is connected to earth. Do not ever mix yellow/green with any other wire.

The two others do not matter, although Live in the wall should be on the right side, and Neutral on the left.

A slight correction, according to the serial this is from 1995.

Thank you, Sir Dial N, the pics made me think of an idea I need to try out.

@Stub Mandrel writes stuff that should be founded easily from some place here. Likewise we already have detailed IEM handbook by @EBS_freak

Do you all think there should be a place here with writings of the basic things we are asked on a monthly basis?

Didn't Springsteen's bassist have a fretless Longhorn?

4 hours ago, Dood said:

...I really rate the Spectracomp and the three knob compressor, Hyper Gravity...

...mini, and the four knob Hyper Gravity...

In case you need any thoughts about separate comps: www.ovnilab.com/

Is there an old Neutrik Silent Plug involved? There were few issues with them in the early days.

Other than that the cable may be lost because of misuse (speaker cable), or too much and hard bending.