itu

Tilt EQ is similar to Quad's stereo preamps (models 34 & 44) or some older Steinberger basses (with EMG electronics). There is certain center frequency, here 330 / 1k. When you boost bass, you cut treble and vice versa. You can not use that EQ as a booster (both full) so "smile" type of equalization is not possible. I like it because it gives lots of power in one single knob without overdriving the amplifier.

http://www.quadrevisie.eu/quadrevisie.html

Have to say that the Stella ("Star") is interesting...

Soft bag (Rockbag etc.):

+ light weight, cheap, works well at home to protect against dust

- cheapo & short lived, faint protection

Semi-soft/hard carrying case (like mono):

+ decent weight, good to carry around, may not withstand airport crew, weather resistant (especially against temperature changes), two bass models available

- zippers have lifetime, not so cheap

Hard case (like Hiscox or similar):

+ hard, good protection, repairable, long lifetime, airplane ready (if has the shape of the instrument inside)

- heavy, somewhat hard to carry, prices and quality vary

Transport case (like Thon or Peli, made of wood and aluminum or polymer):

+ nearly indestructible, shape keeps the instrument in its place, airport crew compatible, custom made (also for two basses etc.)

- heavy and big, may be cumbersome to carry around, on a pricey side

Some might say that George & Leo is the peak of what Leo developed during his years. Idea of an active preamp from StingRay, shapes and basic construction from Jazz and P... would like to say that because G&L is not so known or popular compared to its earlier siblings, it is really good bang for the buck.

Like @Stylon Pilson and @Marc S wrote, it is easier to comment with a question, like: "That was pretty fast, what is the idea behind this tempo?" This gives both sides the possibility to estimate it without direct accusation.

Loudness, yes, that is a hard one. If you bandmate has no more hair cells inside his head but just outside, then an easy solution is to take care of the placement of his amp: "Let's put this higher up (and closer to that player), so we can all hear your subtle nuances better..." Sure, you have to take care of the nuances of your comments, too. Remember to be the active starter and example to the others. Go lift that amp and make it happen, do not try to make him do that.

Is there still some bassist who has not visited these pages? Do it now: http://www.ovnilab.com/

If the compressor is somewhat an odd animal, the parameters should be studied, like how attack affects the softness or tightness of the sound. It is good to start from the envelope:

ADSR = attack, decay, sustain, release.

If you want to move more air, another similar cab would be the best match for you. Just like Mr. Starr pointed out.

+ similar sound (you know what you will get)

+ power is distributed evenly to both cabs (this is an issue, also soundwise)

+ you can choose between one or two when going to a gig

And your choice for tolerance is 5 % which is gold coded, not something funny like 0.5 %!

If you go to a shop or make an order, the resistors need to be metal film ones. They are nearly the same price but superior in quality compared to carbon sH*t.

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/MF1-4LCT52R473J?qs=91WPSIiQh9LK86gI2c0f1w%3D%3D

It is  easiest to solve with a Mohm resistor to ground. Search engine helps here.

I used this small AKG unit this weekend (Fri, Sat) at rehearsals.

+ simple and quick setup, freedom to move, and battery lifetime (single AA)

- breathing i.e. signal losses produce strange sound transformations that relate to attack and overall sound

Conclusion: will use it in sound checks and rehearsals, but definitely not in gigs without a good reason.

I suppose that your bass is "half-active" meaning that only the tone circuitry is active. Then it is an easy task to add a bypass switch to tone. You only need a DPDT switch and a place to put it to. I suggest that you consider a push-pull pot with a DPDT switch. Then you do not need extra holes. Price is decent and the work takes an hour or so.

So a heat related issue, there is a broken connection or soldering somewhere. How about send/return (use a cable)? May be pretty hard to find: if you have an access to a temp camera like FLIR, it may help to try to find the problematic place.

Is the speaker in top order? Try a different amp and another cab to exclude the problem. And cables, of course.

Carbon fiber is so hard to cut, you need special tools or otherwise the tools will be short-lived. You can buy smaller plates from hobby shops but that big plate may be slightly harder to find. You may try race car shops or similar. The price may not be incredible but be precise on the measuring of the original. You do not want to make any changes to the ready part, as the powder coming out from machining is not very healthy. Those tiny carbon particles stick to your lungs etc.

The best machining quality I have seen comes from water cutting. You can even see the details of the different layers.

After listening - not looking - the video for several times, I count out all Fenders and Fender lookalikes, although that Exotic was pretty good and Sandberg very good. I may be a bit to precision sound, as that Spector was amazingly good in her league.

Many American brands had certain zing I did not like, but also this particular Status was a disappointment to me. On the other hand that Alembic was a killer and Pedulla and Zon were just OK. I think that if money was not an object, from these ladies I would have chosen Marlowe DK and that off-black MTD. Alembic, yes... Why on earth was that Vigier white? Roscoe was the best in the sparse league of fretlesses.

Now, if I had the chance to collect individual details from this flock my bass would have: The sound of that Alembic. The ergonomics of the Spector. The carbon of the Status. The paint of the dark MTD. The design of the Vigier. And wide neck 5... which just does not exist.

3 minutes ago, Grangur said:

...500K pots is more treble/aggressive sounding.

Thank you Sir, your description is what I was after.

Size does not matter but the track does. The most common and cheapest tracks (and pots) are carbon. They are noisy and their lifetime expectancy is pretty limited. If in need for something far better, consider conductive plastic. My suggestion is - for top quality - blue or black Bourns.

https://www.mouser.co.uk/Bourns/Passive-Components/Potentiometers-Trimmers-Rheostats/Potentiometers/_/N-9q0yp?P=1yzekihZ1yzxs44Z1z0zlsdZ1yhozxvZ1y9heu3Z1yzbpod

Linear works with the tone, yes. If you need just slightly clearer tone, use 500 k for all three. Then pickups see around 170 k load. If your choice is 3 x 250 k, the load is 80 k.

No bodies, only necks, sorry. But very good necks!

Some American marketing stuff on Bergantino: https://www.bassplayer.com/gear/review-bergantino-forte

and few others:

https://www.bassplayer.com/gear/epiphani-releases-the-1000-watt-piccolo-999-bass-amplifier 

https://www.bassplayer.com/gear/form-factor-audio-introduces-the-bi400-and-bi1000-amplifiers

The predecessor from Mesa is included here:

https://www.bassplayer.com/gear/max-mini-a-roundup-of-ultra-lightweight-class-d-mini-amps

Two words: Status.

With a rotary switch you need one hole less. 2 cents...

Mr. Devine is so fun and his videos are well made as well as entertaining.

It would be far more interesting to see basses with similar pickups and electronics, so that the tester could give the wood a chance to talk. Maybe. Stringing should be equal. So waiting for the test with ten different *one pickup brand* equipped instruments (like SD, MEC, EMG, Delano, bartolini, Nordstrand, or...).

Well, any passive component put to the high impedance (hi-Z) signal path naturally affects the sound. Isn't this a no-brainer?

Guitarists put treble bleed capacitors to their guitars, because that volume pot alone changes the load to the pickup and reduces high end reproduction when turned down. If you use an active signal path, the load is practically eliminated and the pots do not change your sound. The change from hi-Z passive electronics to lo-Z active gives the possibility to use adjustments that do not affect each other. Blend should not be a tone or...

A valve (tube) is very close to an electro-mechanical component because of the size, parts and manufacturing tolerances. It is no wonder that the parts differ that much from each other within one model. This is actually very much the same with nearly any other electronic component.

Now I simplify a lot, but overall you might say, that the system works through choices of manufacturing and testing:

Plain and simple resistors have nine (yes, 9!) tolerance classes: from 0.05 to 20 %. Batches have certain tolerances and the process has many parameters. Accuracy has its price. There are these manufacturing lines that produce a variety of carbon resistors without specific resistance. Then these parts are classified and they get their markings. Remember: a cheap 1 kohm carbon film resistor with 20 % tolerance may lead from 800 to 1200 ohm unit - the difference between these two is 400 ohms! Don't talk about precision, talk about price. And how many of these cheapest resistors your amp had?

It is not only the single valve that affects the performance. It is the parametric jungle that the signal sees while wandering through the different (sic!) components. If you need to copy some design accurately, beware that it is expensive. Even digital systems suffer from the same issues, because parts from resistors to microprocessors all have the same production issues. Some microprocessors are faster and still they come from the same silicon and the same process.

Please take a look at Claude Paillard's tube "factory". Notice those simple tools and give a thought to tolerances.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzyXMEpq4qw

...or was it the text?

Have to admit that this time the duel between the brown and the BW wood goes to the body. The contrast and that red stripe in the neck... wow.

Try well known brands like Weller, Hakko, Metcal etc. If you have any money, your choice is a soldering station. Modern tins that do not contain lead (Pb) are harder in the process. I suggest to find one 500 g roll of 1 mm tin-lead (60-40 or even better 63-37). If possible, buy two rolls. That should be enough for years to come.

If on a budget, you may find a simple 25 - 50 W iron, but as an example, Weller's basic models are attractively priced at around 100 €:

https://www.weller-tools.com/consumer/EUR/en/Weller+Consumer/Soldering+Stations/Electronic%2C+Repair%2C+and+Everyday/WHS+40+(UK)

More sophisticated Metcal has heftier pricetag, prepare to pay around 500 € for a good station.

38 minutes ago, fretmeister said:

Tomorrow will be the first time in about 8 years that I've used a 4 string. There will be wrong notes!  

So you upgraded from a gutbucket...?

(...taking me coat...)