itu
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Posts posted by itu
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OK, here is a guide that I often refer to: http://www.resistorguide.com/potentiometer/ . Easy to read and has lots of information. Enjoy.
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I suppose few people that have printers read this, so here you can get some information about safety. In short: please ensure that your printer is not beside your bed or breakfast...
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1352231013005086
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Have to say, that I love this: GisserD opens his project to public (+ public comments) AND show incredible results. As a mortal, I dream of similar brave attitude.
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I can read OUTPUT, but does it really say INTPUT in the upper right corner?
This project is excellent, like the way you have been opening the box and found a new way to reduce the footprint. I think that some shielding would be in order to make it quiet to both directions, in and out.
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The capacitor has not so much effect when the pot is fully open, but the pot load is affecting the sound all the time.
Only if the neck including its parts is similar to another and the only difference is the fretboard, the comparison would be somewhat reasonable. Setting the instrument has to be done the same way, too.
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I would LOVE to have an active blend and get rid out of those pick up load issues (i.e. sound changes) with passive pots. I have found noll that makes an active mixpot and I think that East has active inputs (please correct me if I'm wrong). Quite many bartolini sets have passive pots and only the tone control is active.
Most of the manufacturers rely purely on active tone control. I see this point of view as a "half active system": the volume and mixing of the pick ups is passive. Qualitywise this solution is somewhat cheapo. Active EMGs are active by nature, so mixing them can be done with passive pots without significant load and sound issues. Active is an option there, too.
1) passive pick up - passive volume and mix - passive tone (like a Jazz)
2) passive pick up - passive volume and mix - active tone (any "active" bass like Ibanez)
3) passive pick up - active volume and mix - active tone (like retrofit East preamp on a Jazz)
4) active pick up - active or passive volume and mix - active or passive tone (EMG + East)
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Here are few points (arrows), that may need some tin. The power socket and IN and OUT are marked with text. I am not sure, whether my reading is perfect (I just rely on the pic) but it seems that there may be issues in the PCBA. For example those arrows in the uppermost right corner showing problems may be of no use i.e. not important.
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Just on the right side from that trimmer (which looks like a flathead screw - do not touch it) you can see 6 + 6 soldered legs of the input and output jacks. Open the jack screws first and try again.
If there is a power connection (9 V) somewhere, the PCBA may be stuck from that corner, so take your time.
The power socket is maybe on the left side of those red&black wires and the trio of solderings look pretty lousy. It may be loose, so you just need a hot iron and some tin.
I would wash the PCBA with (denaturated) ethanol to see, if there are other issues with solderings. Does not look so clean...
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A pic or two would be very helpful...
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I have the same amp and it is a real keeper. I don't consider changing it, no. But could acquire another Glockenklang or that Hellborg system.
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TS plugs/jacks have tip (+) and sleeve (-), TRS have tip, ring and sleeve. I suggest you tin the cables to tip and sleeve.
The phasing actually matters, if you happen to use several cabs. The easiest way to check phasing is to use a 9 V battery and check which way the cone moves when you connect the battery + to the speaker + (and grounds together). Phase is OK, if the cone pushes forward.
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Very fine condition, very good looks. Usually these ladies have an alder body and the top is probably flame maple.
Modulus Quantum 4 SPi Custom. Custom comes from back hardware, flame maple top, sunburst and barts. SPi means integrated bolt-on neck joint but they do not use this term so much anymore (TBX = through body experimental).
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There are quite a few alternatives here, I think:
1) string change to stainless steels
2) pick up adjustment may help
3) make a bypass switch for pots
4) make the bass partially active by using noll's mixpot (removes pick up load issues, but needs a battery)
5) change pick ups
6) EQ pedal = active preamp?
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Try a little bit of reverb with fuzz...
My choice is Iron Ether Nimbus. It has LPF and HPF for reverb so it does not mud the sound at all. Very bass driven design. You may find one from Taylor himself or in Europe from: https://www.effekt-boutique.de/iron-ether/
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B relates to linear and numbers to 30 kilo ohms. So you should be after around 25 - 30 kilo ohm linear pot.
It should be noted, that B sometimes relates to logarithmic pot. Sadly, there are no standards here.
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I just happened to find out, that Warwick's Hellborg amps and cabs seem to be on sale. Those interested will find their way to that well-known German T-shop.
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I started with a green (sic!) tinted Status MM neck (satin finish, no dots; thank you folks out there). I had an extra Q-tuner pick-up. Went to a store to buy 4 single bridge pieces. Called a luthier that I know. He built a body from local wood (Finnish birch) and put the set together.
Now I have a rock solid dark bass with no adjustments or pots. Works like a dream. Did NOT cost £3 000.
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Wonderful dark fretboard!
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Not just plug in, but they need to be soldered. And as there is something with the output, please contact your tech.
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3below sent an excellent link, although you may need translator for a moment...
If you look at the picture (or probably the actual unit), there are those four big transistor up left. Under the two rightmost big MOSFETs there are two parts missing, so those transistors. You can find them by reading the PCBA.
Transistor type is BF423.
https://www.onsemi.com/PowerSolutions/product.do?id=BF423
I have to say that there may be something else that is faulty, too, but trial surely is not very expensive.
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At the moment there is a red Sonic Hammer in the marketplace:
https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/334589-modulus-usa-quantum-ss-sonic-hammer-5-string/
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1 hour ago, I Denby said:
Well, having now spent some time looking around at what's available these days, I've narrowed down my shortlist of basses that excite me enough to want to try them in the hope that they sound as good as they look
Sir, I just have to say that also a Zon might be one reasonable alternative. There is one with a cocacola top:
https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/333003-zon-sonus-custom/
At least would love to try that one. Yes, it is a bolt-on but a Legacy is rare. The body shape clearly relates to Spector NS-1 (Ned Steinberger) - Warwick Streamer - Fodera Monarch - etc. so obviously Mr. Steinberger got something right with that.
My personal favorites while choosing an instrument are: neck shape (backside as flat as possible), string spacing (19 mm), ergonomics (including light weight), sound on the darker side, and I like carbon fiber as well as hate the F-word (by Leo).
Nice to have: no front dots, dark top wood colors, dark fretboard (definitely not maple), easy string changes (top loaded bridge), strap locks, 4/5 strings.
Strings and electronics can be easily tweaked if needed.
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The first test - always - is to put a cable to FX loop, so a bass (yes!) cable from SEND to RETURN. If the problem is gone, buy a short cable to the loop. These connections tend to be the usual suspect.
Speaker cable is the next one - use only quality ones and check them periodically. At least once a year. A loose screw is hard to find. (Other than that, Speakon is the right solution for speakers.)
Brighten up my bass please..
in Repairs and Technical
Posted
Yes, exactly. ABX and blind testing are very efficient in ruling out these guess and feel based 50-60 results.
But it is true, that if you believe in something, it should be noted. While playing, feeling is included.