itu

Very nice looks, I especially like that the fretboard has no dots and the colour scheme is unified. A beauty.

Again, Digi-Key might be of help:

https://www.digikey.co.uk/products/en/switches/rocker-switches/195

Start from "Panel Cutout Dimensions" and then "Switch Function" and "Current Rating" and so on. There may be a slight chance to find the right one.

To find an exact copy of the thing you are after is a somewhat difficult task. But if you can do searching and soldering, something can be done. Start from this:

https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=66471.0

This should give you an idea how to change the other pot from 100 k to 20 k.

Then go to Digi-Key. Their selection has dual pots - only if you can find them. The helping column here is "Actuator diameter" under "More Filters". Search for those that have two diameters. And 100 k.

https://www.digikey.co.uk/products/en/potentiometers-variable-resistors/rotary-potentiometers-rheostats/84

Lin/log was not specified, but hope this helps.

Go to a shop that has a good selection of headphones. Take some music with you that you are familiar with. Compensate the volume to a reasonable level with every pair (there really is a difference, there). Then make a choice of price and test all in the same league and take the (soundwise) most comfortable pair.

The other way is to start from the top: try the highest price first, then the second and go on until you hear a difference in sound. Then your choice is the previous pair.

Could it be a Schecter? Logo has similar looks.

My guess is that it's a piccolo. But the f-word and Clarke? Contradictionary terms?

An elegant looking instrument, I like the color of the body and the fretboard.

My experience is that if you try one pedal in a shop, use similar instrument you have i.e. active (lo-Z) or passive (hi-Z). I had lots of issues with different setups until I talked to a pedal manufacturer. His guide was that I should try to find the place in the signal chain (after any active pedal the OD will receive a lo-Z signal!) and take the type of an instrument into account. So, now I have two pedal boards: A and P. (Actually a tiny third one with just a tube OD and a comp - which equals rock. :)

A list of some units I have tried. OK, many of these pedals are not from the lowest price points but there are many used and kit units that may have tempting price.

An old Russian Big Muff Pi (we just did not get along), Jan Rey Vemuram (so guitar), RAT (thin, but I heard few days ago that it could be customized), ebs multidrive (just thin), WH pork loin (very close, but no), Mög (4 channels, pretty heavy), rainger FX (possible), Rochambeau Crustacean (strange; still have it), IE Oxide, Sparkle Drive (actually quite good unit for bass), Darkglass B3k (metal) and Duality (that I liked a lot), OmkartGromt Grombass (not my cup of tea)...

Now I have Spruce OGF for passive, an amptweaker BTF for active, and that Overlord for - fun.

Would this be of any help? 

www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf

FrantaBit behaves pretty well with an adjustable LPF after it. Gives more freedom to tweak Franta. Here in the picture is my active bass rig. The high band has a fuzz, chorus/flanger and an envelope filter. I put the Franta to the low band and with the LPF some "unusable" sounds can be tamed. (Reverb and comp are after the Tyler.)

I would love to see a x-over in front of every bass effect chain and an LPF after it to adjust whatever needed.

My passive bass rig can be found from my profile (thinking to move the active rig to the same place).

2x12, MUST BE: Transparent, featherweight, 4ohm, vertically aligned.

First of all, I would not use the word "transparent" as the cabinet colors the sound a lot. One and probably the most important reason for this is efficiency. Think about a hifi system, that needs to have as straight freq response as possible. They may have the efficiency in the ballpark of 0.01 % i.e. 100 amplifier watts equal 0.01 W of speaker noise and the rest (99.99 W !) will warm your house through speakers' voice coils. This happens, as the response has to be tweaked with components in the speaker x-over.

Now, a PA system (including bass and guitar systems) may have efficiency in the area of 1 - 2 % (and 98 - 99 watts warm up the club house). This is some 100 times more sound/volume/noise coming out from the system compared to hifi. Is it fair to compare f response of these two? Certainly not. So please, do leave the word "transparent" out.

If you are into technology at all, you probably already know that impedance does not actually matter volume-wise, as the volume difference between those two (4/8 ohms) is mostly negligible. In this real life a 4 ohm cabinet may produce LESS sound that its 8 ohm counterpart at high power levels but this is amp dependent: sometimes 4 ohms is just too hard for the power amp. So as a specification, is it a reasonable must? That's why I would write: 2x12, featherweight, vertically aligned, (adjustable tweeter optional).

One speaker suggestion to the list would be Italian Alusonic - and was Swedish TKS mentioned here?

http://www.alusonic.com/

http://tks.se/

A tad cheaper than loknobs is a set from Stompshield. You can find them from the germanian T-shop. I do not put them to every knob, but to those that are the most important or few to round few others.

http://stompshield.com/

I went to the lady Katariina Larisuo (https://mikkihouse.fi/en/) who makes straps. We talked a bit, as I wanted two very comfortable straps. So, she suggested that between the 3" wide leather and a cotton fabric she would put felt. The combination is super comfy. Three hours of playing, no pain, no more. It is true that i also use relatively lightweight instruments most of the time.

The Pensa-Suhr that Victor Bailey used: https://www.skinnerinc.com/auctions/3007B/lots/34

Sold for U$D 10 455. Can be seen at: http://rudysmusic.com/used-vintage-soho-nz/vintage-pensa-suhr-koa-jazz-bass

Modulus Graphite Bassstar. Non-US could be Status T-bass or J and Japanese makers may have something special there, someone already said moon. German, French, Italian makers like Meridian (and Funk-u-lator and Syntave but not Vimana)...

12 minutes ago, ped said:

The splines are 6mm are they not, and the knobs collet fixing type?

Yes, the same. I was lucky to find the right sized knobs right away. Sometimes this small country that I live in (Finland, or Infland) may have two parts somewhere in Lapland - or not.

8 hours ago, ped said:

Where did you get the green control knobs!

The bass was missing the eq knobs so I visited a local electronics shop and bought few knobs and several hats. Tried red and black hats but green seemed to fit at that time. The frames are grey.

10 hours ago, GisserD said:

I have two. I could be tempted to let one go if your interested as I now have a helix....

Thank you for a kind offer, I do have the basic version, that works like a dream. Bought it from Taylor.

On top of it i have an Oxide (might sell this), a FrantaBit, a Divaricator and a Xerograph Deluxe. Quite a work to find the sounds needed as they offer a big palette of very different noises.

GK 200MB was very good and was behaving like it was far bigger. Lightweight! (sadly, it was stolen in the early 90's)

Mesa 400+ was the opposite: weighed probably 300 lbs/kg. Earthshaking sound. This I did not own, but had a chance to play it live few times.

Modulus Graphite customer service. I had a smallish issue with my Quantum 5 SPi custom (this happened in the late 90's). They wanted my bass back to the Factory. Fine, I paid the sending fee. It took quite some time, but one day there was a UPS guy behind my door. The bass came back with a hard shell case, a new bridge, polished surfaces and naturally the fret work was done! None of these details were asked!

Neutrik plugs. Enough said.

Daring Audio Phat beam has a comp, and a HPF that work like a dream live with my passive instruments. Definitely not a transparent unit.

Iron Ether Divaricator really changed my use of effects. A x-over built for bassist. Thanks Taylor!

Patrice Vigier, il est magnifique!

There may be some space left for a mediocre quality pic of an AFR 304.

If you are interested, one fretless neckthrough is in the Vigier p*rn thread, page 9. Handmade, oil finish, 36" scale et al. Design by Kristian Ukkonen and me.

Photo by Kristian just after he completed the instrument.

Do have two Passions, a burgundy red with an original teardrop hardcase (I am the second owner) and a kind of yellowburst with a detuner. Serials told that these ladies were made in 1988 and 1989. I hunted these for ages, saw the first Passion (ROM version) in the 1980's. Fell in love instantly but did not have the money at that time. Now a happy owner of these two. Lovely instruments.

If the NT fretless looks somewhat long, it has a 36" scale. Passive, step attenuator, coil switch, hollow, handmade by an incredibly talented Finn, Kristian Ukkonen. Finnish birch, blackwood fretboard and walnut top. Very nice and easy to play. Straps are handmade by lady Katariina Larisuo, both sides shown.

Nimbus has HP and LP filters, so you can narrow or move the reverb's frequency band to your specs. Taylor has nowadays two models, i.e. there is an S.E. version available.

https://ironether.com/pedals/nimbus/

https://ironether.com/pedals/nimbus-se/