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jebroad

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Everything posted by jebroad

  1. Another idea, acrylic neck. Bolted on into the massive neck pocket No truss, 3 CF rods down the neck, 3-4 layers of CF laminated with epoxy between the neck and the acrylic fretboard.
  2. Great thanks, I’ve seen that and I’m quite a fan of goldfrapp, who Charlie jones plays for now. The issue with that was the bendy neck as well I think. On the midget bass there’s only about 10” of neck not in a neck pocket so an acrylic neck (with CF rods) could be an option. Thanks for the pointer.
  3. I’ve tecently been thinking of an acrylic bodied 20” scale bass. I’m currently making a ‘midget bass’ prototype but that’s bass just mahog. For this, the acrylic would be cheaper than timber. The tint body means a 30mm thick acrylic slab would be £35. Has anyone got experience in routing acrylic and if it’s safe to use a 1/2” straight bit (with a bearing on the top). From what I know, the slower the speed the better because of heat from the rotation. I could also use ice water as a coolant on the bit. If you want to look at the project of the Mahog midget I’ve got a post on that Here’s the body design,
  4. My dingwall? Metallic matte black
  5. Isn’t finished yet but here’s my 20” project.
  6. I bought from these guys before and got a pug faced maple top. (Just under the PU cavity)
  7. It should be finished by the midlands bass bash (5/5/18) if you want to check it out.
  8. I’ve recently started the build of a ridiculous idea. A 20” scale bass. The body and neck are from an old mahog bookshelf I’ve already got 3 bodies from. The idea is to use the low 4 string of a 5 string and tune them up to whatever the correct tension is. It will be, at most, a step up from standard. It won’t have a truss rod, just a graphite rod. The neck is tiny and half of it is in a neck pocket anyway. Ive just planed down the neck and shaped the body. The neck looks very thick in the photos but that was not it’s proper thickness. I’m using a piezo bridge only.
  9. Both these methods have advantages and disadvantages. The fibre optic method is great for lifespan but the individual LED method is easier.
  10. Sounds good. I’m quite a fan of you guys at manton as I’ve fallen in love with me of your basses.
  11. will the route, i plan on 8mm wide and not too sure on depth, be big enough for that?
  12. What diameter cable should i use? The inlays are 7mm diameter if it helps.
  13. Interesting solution for truss adjustment. I might use that.
  14. There is. I've found a cheap one from china on ebay. Heres the link https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Set-of-Headless-Electric-Bass-Bridge-w-Nut-Screws-Wrench-Roll-Ball-Tools/253308055460?hash=item3afa562fa4:g:RxoAAOSwWv5aL6Iw
  15. My idea for this is to have the strings lock in a block of steel or brass at the head. This is so i can use single balls. .
  16. I've got some ideas for an led fret board. Treble offset translucent dot markers with a channel routed in the neck for the LEDs. Just wondering if anyone has any experience in this. I have some experience in electronics i effects pedals and such and this looks quite simple.
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