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mybass

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Posts posted by mybass

  1. Generally, the bridge saddles when set right, will form a slightly angled line across ways. Your string may be needing a slight movement. Play it at the 12th fret and then play it open, any difference? Try playing the 12th fret harmonic and then the string too. Moving the saddle should bring the tuning into correct play.
    Sometimes the string itself may be the problem so make sure you have the good stuff on there!


    [quote name='mindpop' post='53693' date='Sep 1 2007, 02:46 AM']I have a problem....I have a new 6 string bass that on the d string the higher I play up the neck the sharper it goes out of tune.. This does not happen on any other string. Does this sound like an intonation problem? Anyone out there ever experience this???
    Thanks[/quote]

  2. 90% of problems with signal loss etc seems to always be about connections or leads. Maybe your actual guitar lead is a bit faulty?
    With guitars/basses that have batteries in them, the jack socket is a "stereo" socket which will have 3 tags on it.
    So, you will have the earth wire to one tag, the actual signal or "hot" wire to another tag and then the wire from the battery itself to the third tag. (The battery also has a wire that will be wired to earth inside the bass, probably onto the back of a potentiometer). When you plug your jack lead into your bass, the battery is then "connected" or activated so that your onboard active pickups or pre-amp will be powered up. This also means that when the jack lead isn't plugged in, the battery will not be running down.
    On a simple system with no battery, there is just the plain jack socket with 2 connections, one is the earth wire out and the other the "live" signal from the pickups.
    Beware, solder these the wrong way and expect trouble! If you aren't sure ever about doing that, take it to a decent repairer.

    [quote name='lwtait' post='57191' date='Sep 7 2007, 08:39 PM']Sorted... somehow... :)

    I didn't do anything (as far as I know) but its not doing it any more! I'll tell you if it starts happening again.[/quote]

  3. I believe the wax that Warwick use and sell, contains Carnuba wax. Not all waxes for polishing contain this, so I've been told in shops. Someone mentioned not to use silicon wax. I heard that it isn't that good a wax to use too, something to do with build up of residual muck.
    Your bass has already been oiled at the factory, so waxing should be the only necessary job now, unless you strip the body back to bare wood and start again.
    When I oil my (fretless) macassar ebony fingerboards, I use "Bore Oil". This was used by my double bass repairer on fingerboards. It is used for the bores on woodwind instruments, stops all that spittle from rotting the insides I guess. It is supplied in small quantities for a few pounds, made by Yamaha and obtainable or to be ordered in many music shops. When applying it, dab some onto a piece of cloth and rub that into the fingerboard. DON'T pour it onto the fingerboard direct. That goes for any oil.
    If you are going to oil the fingerboard, use sparingly, it can and will seep under the frets and maybe just maybe, loosen them. I can relate a story where an over zealous roadie kept disregarding both my protests and our guitarists' about the method and use of lemon oil "cleaner" he insisted on using. Instead of giving the guitars a good wipe down, he kept using this lemon oil "cleaner". This resulted by the third gig with my right hand being soaked in excess lemon oil seeping out of the bridge and strings. Worse still, the guitarist had a graphite nut on his lovely strat. The oil literally softened the nut and the strings had sunk into the graphite itself. The guitarist had a new nut put on. There was so much oil though that had soaked into the wood that this new nut also softened up.
    The lesson is to be sparing with any oils on and around the fingerboard area.

    [quote name='Pikefloyd' post='64402' date='Sep 23 2007, 04:03 PM']I've been using lemon oil to clean the neck (ovangkol) and fretboard (wenge) of my Warwick. The body is swamp ash, and has a coloured oil finish. Does anyone think there may be problems using the lemon oil on the body too, or is there some other cleaner that might be better suited with the type of finish I have?

    Any help much appreciated[/quote]

  4. You sure it is the actual mechanics of the machine head? Also, if the nut is a bit tight on the string it may force the string to resist pulling through the nut slot, so putting a little more tension on the machine head. Sometimes a bit of pencil led which is graphite, "pencilled" into the nut slot by sharpening to a point an ordinary pencil, will help to provide a smoother passage for the string over/through the nut slot.


    [quote name='Maark' post='64559' date='Sep 23 2007, 11:38 PM']So... I go to tune my big pile of bass tonight. And as I tune the A string, anytime I move the machine head there's like a little mechanical squeaking sound, like nng-nng-nng as if it's protesting. What can I do? I've only owned this bass 3 weeks now.[/quote]

  5. Thankyou very much Silverfoxnik. I must admit I do like to doodle with a bit of wood.
    To explain..I am a pro player, having spent the last 25 years on fretless bass. This led me to conclude that getting the "right" fretless action was down to doing it for myself. This led to a serious hobby of wood to basses. I have been playing and recording with my own basses for 10+ years. I make them usually from english ash bodies, sometimes swamp ash, ( not so punchy), maple neck and maccassar ebony fingerboard. Schaller hardware usually used for tuners and 3D bridge. I usually put Seymour Duncan actives on. I will often "play" the bass in myself, sometimes on gigs, adjusting stuff as I go along. This way I know it should be set up to a good optimum playing feel.
    I should try and post a pic soon as I have one new one almost finished and another awaiting wood for the neck.

  6. AAARRRRRGGGGGHHH don't tell me if it does reappear!
    I'm sure ( am I?) that yon chappie really was going to use it. GULP.

    [quote name='MacDaddy' post='62639' date='Sep 19 2007, 12:53 PM']but don't we all want a good deal on Ebay?
    If it was me that bought that, I'd be made up, but if I was selling it I be gutted!

    What's the betting that will be on sale soon with a reserve? :)[/quote]

  7. [quote name='Machines' post='62458' date='Sep 19 2007, 07:38 AM'][url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=150160666083&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=005"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...A:IT&ih=005[/url]

    This went for a ridiculous price - can't believe there was no reserve on it :).[/quote]

    My first Ebay foray a while back was selling an EBS pre-amp. I put a reserve on it but as it wasn't picking up too many bids, Ebay "advised" me to consider no reserve. I followed that advice at the time. The result was a very cheap pre-amp sale way below its real worth. AAARRRGGGHHH.
    I was happy for the chappie who bought it but
    it would have been more bold if I had sold at what I wanted!
    Be careful out there.

  8. [quote name='jimmybass04' post='61201' date='Sep 16 2007, 03:25 PM']hi there, im looking for an accoustic bass, i v tried the tanglewood and it feels really good,i need something that sounds loud unplugged, wondering if anyone has any info on any other ones they recommend.
    any info appreciated. jimmy[/quote]


    I've been getting along pretty well with my Washburn AB20 with the slatted soundhole for many years now. The onboard EQ on acoustic basses maybe the make or break with any them. Cheaper basses may be ok'ish in a room but on stage, the better bass will prove its worth. The Takamine is a choice acoustic. Maybe the Fender (Victor Bailey?) could be a good bet.

  9. [quote name='mybass' post='49108' date='Aug 22 2007, 06:25 PM'][attachment=1898:Peavey_210.JPG]£90 plus postage but pickup or meeting most possible and you are most welcome to try out the cabinet. ( I am based on the Surrey / Hants borders not far from the main A3 road). This is the Peavey 2x10" TX model with attenuable horn which I never use. No major dings or bashes and in very acceptable condition. Usual Peavey power specs. I had two new Peavey speakers put in a couple of years ago and it has since been stored due to new Mark Bass gear. I owned the cab from new. The TX was the older style and slightly less deep cabinet than later cabs. I actually preferred the more woody sound of this cab to Peavey's later designs. It sounds excellent as a stand alone and even better on top a 15" or another 10" array cabinet. Please note as in most Peavey cabs, this is a 4 OHM cabinet so check connecting to amplifiers for impedance values.[/quote]

    BUMP

  10. I have a spare and slightly used Hipshot Ex-Tender going for £30 includes UK postage. Finished in Chrome. For the E string peg with the flip lever to detune down to D whilst playing and back up again if your quick enough!
    I think this is the HE6c model with clover leaf tuner head.
    The outer sleeve hexagonal head that ultimately tightens the tuner in place from the front of the headstock is about 1/2" wide.

  11. [quote name='theheed' post='59756' date='Sep 13 2007, 10:48 AM']I'm in the process of trying to put together a second hand (or pre-loved) rig which will I will use in 2 different bands so needs to be completely portable - ie bass gig bag on my back, head in one hand and cab in the other. On crowded London transport.

    I've been hiring a Hartke 3500 and a 4x10 which has been more than loud enough for every gig we've done so far, so ideally need something with similar punch - but the portability outlined above.

    I've pretty much settled on Markbass - from what I've tried in the Bass centre and GAK (a Jeff Berlin) - I love the tone and was impressed by the output - IMO tighter and with more clarity and volume than a lot of 4x10s I've hired in the past.

    I've ruled out a 1x12 combo. as I think it may 'fart' at the volumes needed.

    So at the moment I'm wathcing a Little Mark II on ebay and may bid on that if it doesn't go daft in the last few minutes!

    Then I need to track down a cab. I want a Traveler. But the 2x10 or the 1x15?

    So Markbass users out there I need your opinions. How do they compare in tone and output?

    I suspect that the 2x10 may stay tighter but less 'in your chest' deep as the volume goes up. I know the Jeff Berlin had the depth but will it start farting if I use it over half volume?

    (As a rule we only fart in out band if the audience request it and the venue has the required ventilation.)

    Any view are welcome.

    Cheers Andy[/quote]
    Check the new Mark Bass SINGLE unit amplifier that still gives a ton of power into 4 ohms (two of their cabs).
    I believe there is or will be a mid sized Mark Bass 2x10 with a single FRONT port.
    I run the larger 2x10 and the Traveller 2x10 (off a Mark Bass 2 channel LMK).
    In case you didn't know, the larger has 2 front ports top and bottom, the Traveller a single rear port and is much smaller in height and not as deep.The larger cab has more bass end than the traveller.
    I think both cabs are brilliant and feel the newer "mid sized" cab will have the best of both worlds. Remember that their amps have a really good eq section so gaining more bass should not be a problem.
    It will all come down to volume needed in the end. Good luck.

  12. [quote name='owen' post='55317' date='Sep 4 2007, 03:09 PM']I have a friend who needs to hire a double bass for a couple of weeks for a jazz band he is road managing. I know that there are hire companies such as Matt Snowball etc but he has tried them and the bassist in question was not loving it.

    Any suggestions as to other sources for a nicer instrument to hire?

    Ta, like.[/quote]

    Footes in London, (Golden Square) may be able to help you along.

  13. [attachment=1898:Peavey_210.JPG]£90 plus postage but pickup or meeting most possible and you are most welcome to try out the cabinet. ( I am based on the Surrey / Hants borders not far from the main A3 road). This is the Peavey 2x10" TX model with attenuable horn which I never use. No major dings or bashes and in very acceptable condition. Usual Peavey power specs. I had two new Peavey speakers put in a couple of years ago and it has since been stored due to new Mark Bass gear. I owned the cab from new. The TX was the older style and slightly less deep cabinet than later cabs. I actually preferred the more woody sound of this cab to Peavey's later designs. It sounds excellent as a stand alone and even better on top a 15" or another 10" array cabinet. Please note as in most Peavey cabs, this is a 4 OHM cabinet so check connecting to amplifiers for impedance values.

  14. [quote name='urb' post='47117' date='Aug 18 2007, 12:37 PM']Hey Guys

    I can't believe I'm actually selling my EBS stuff but I am - I still love it - it's still great gear - but I have fallen for and acquired an Epifani 502 and it's more the sound I want now.

    The HD350 head is a simply wicked amp - very powerful, with a hi-fi sound, suitable for funk, rock, jazz and just about anything in between - Marcus Miller likes to use two of them at once, because he can, and his tone says it all. Anyway they are very conservatively rated at 350 watts - this sound more like 450 or 500. It can drive two cabs at once so with a 2x10 and 1x15 you will have a very fat sound.

    The amp am selling is approximately 3 and half years old, I have gigged it a fair bit - not loads. but it's still in great condition, with minor nicks on the paintwork, but it still looks great. The fan has a bit of dust in it simply from use; this is not a problem when in use. I have never experienced any problems with this amp, live or in rehearsal, it's incredibly reliable and utterly consistent - and it's so powerful I have rarely needed to turn the volume more than half way up - it cuts through and has a ton of punch. It's a relatively lightweight amp as well for the sheer power that it packs.

    There's loads more info here [url="http://www.bassemporium.com/item.php?sku=HD350"]on the EBS site[/url]. but I particularly love the inbuilt compressor as it's so subtle and effective it's one of the best things about the design - the sweepable-EQ is great as well, so is the Drive facility for some serious rocking edge. You also get an incredible snap with the 'Bright' knob that is heaven for any serious slappers out there.

    I'm looking to get £450 GBP or a near offer - I'm based in London so it'd be great if there's a BC'er out there in need of a kick ass new amp based in London. I'd obviously have to charge shipping for anywhere else in the country but I'd estimate that'd be around £25.

    [attachment=1818:hd350_front.jpg] [attachment=1819:hd350_back.jpg] [attachment=1820:hd350_close.jpg]

    Last but not least I'm also offering two EBS Black Label pedals - a Dyna Verb and Unichorus. IThey are all in good working order and still have their original boxes. I simply don-t use them and want to get rid of them for something else - they are superb pedals and among the best on the market IMO. I'm looking for £70 each (they all retail around £150) or 120 for the two together, I'll through in a daisy chain and the EBS connectors for free.

    [attachment=1821:pedals_boxed.jpg] [attachment=1822:blacklabel_pedals.jpg]

    In the unlike event one of you wants the amp and the pedals - I'll do you the lot for £550 - new this would cost you £1160.

    [attachment=1823:hd350_pedals.jpg]

    Please PM me for more info and/or to give me a call (I'll PM you my number) if you have any further questions.

    Thanks for reading.

    Mike[/quote]

    Very intersted in the Dyna Verb and even the chorus too.
    Still available?

  15. [quote name='silverfoxnik' post='25579' date='Jul 1 2007, 12:50 PM']Hi Folks,

    I've been using a Hughes & Kettner 4 x 10 that I bought from The Wigfinder General for a year now and it sounds great to me..It weighs a ton but that's worth it because it fills the room and can take anything you throw at it!

    But the guys in my band want me to use something smaller on stage because of all the usual space issues at pub gigs etc, etc. So, I've been trying out my GK Backline 2 x 10 cab, but to my ears, it just doesn't have the depth to it that I like.

    Would a 2 x 12 cab be a good way to go or is this just a case of me buying the right brand of 2 x 10 or re-adjusting my ears to a different, smaller sound???

    I've even been looking at buying a 1 x 15 combo like the GK 700RB that's on sale here at the moment but am undecided what to do at the moment, so any advice much appreciated!

    Cheers

    Nik[/quote]

    Have a look at the Mark Bass 2x10", the one with TWO front ports which is the larger 2x10. It has a lot of bottom end capacity, power handling and is 8 ohm so you could always add another 8 ohm cab. I use one of these as well with the smaller 2x10" Mark Bass Traveller cab. Big sound with both cabs running, and light weight.

  16. £90. This little beauty is still up for sale. Peavey 2x10" with horn, in VG cond. Usual Peavey specs. It has two new peavey speakers and is the older style cab size which is about 2" less deep. Unless you really need/want the highest quality cabinet of this size, at £90 this is a great buy and goes well with a 15" cab.
    I am situated a couple of miles off the A3 at Hindhead/Hampshire border.

  17. [quote name='Steve_K' post='27279' date='Jul 5 2007, 01:41 AM']The Status single tuners have the advantage of allowing you to space the bridge gaps as you wish, and the new design never takes any effort to turn (while never slipping unintentionally!)[/quote]

    Thanks for the info Steve.

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