mybass

Sold.

Still can't figure out how to delete a post. Anyone advise me please.

Can anyone advise me please on the simple way to delete a post. I know its there, somewhere, somehow, someday!
cheers folks.
By the way, I do not get a "Delete" button on my pages, only on the occasional replies.
I have also just tried to do a quick edit with this page and there was no "submit modified post" button coming up.

Clearing out surplus stuff, I found 7 mixed types of guitar stands. 2 are double holders, 1 is the "A" frame type and the other 4 are standard. All ok. Good job lot for someone with a studio type situation.
Also 2 heavy duty screw in feet mike/boom stands that would be good for studio use. I'm pretty certain these were two I bought from Chipping Norton studios when they closed down a few years ago.
Anyone want to make a bit of an offer and collect? N.E. Hants area just off A3.

Yep. Gig cancelled on behalf of commercial rugby TV importance on a big screen on a Saturday night just as we should all be settling into the first set and a nice pint. Suddenly everyone likes rugby in the pub!
BAH FOOHEY.


[quote name='chris_b' post='76274' date='Oct 19 2007, 12:35 AM']My gig was also cancelled because of the rugby!!! It's cost me, so England had better win![/quote]

That is the problem once a double bass gets to compete with a loudish ensemble, the volume. As you stand next to the bass, the bass's maximum volume gives off from the front of the instrument and moves away from you. Volume does come off the back too but as you are finding, not enough. I used to sometimes shove my ear against the neck, a strange style!
As you have electric guitar and I assume drums, you may actually need a small amp for yourself. Raising the strings will give off more volume but will also make you change your playing style, possibly causing undue strain. I cannot comment about different string volumes as I've always used the same make of Thomastic strings.
If you haven't taken double bass lessons, even a few from an established player will possibly enlighten you on your technique.
Now you know why the Fender Precision became so popular, easier volume over drums and horns and finally, the bass player was HEARD. Whenever I watch those old big bands playing, I give respect to those hard working double bass players.





[quote name='subaudio' post='75917' date='Oct 18 2007, 10:07 AM']Hey all

I had my second rehearsal with my new band on Double bass last night and I am loving it, we had more band members today, electric guitar and another acoustic guitar and I was struggling to be heard a bit, i am pulling on the strings quite hard, so I dont think it's a technique issue (could be wrong though), I was wondering if strings make a difference, the ones on my bass are still quite new, or if raising the action helps, although it is pretty high already, any advice would be greatfully received.[/quote]

Careful with that router! Always clamp the wood securely to a solid worktop. Wear eye protection and shoes that don't slip. Some routers have a devastating high pitch motor so you may want ear plugs. Wearing noise reduction headphones AND eye protectors will steam up your goggles so be careful of that too. Practice on some waste wood first to see how the router works and always cut a little depth at a time. The router will "pull" along ways to one side when cutting so test for this.
A 1/2" router machine cuts easier and quicker but a 1/4" router is good for finer work. I used a 1/4" for profiling body and neck blanks but it takes too long.
String sound will be "tighter" nearer the bridge side of pickups and more "bassy" towards neck side. Hence some people liking a P bass pickup for D and G towards the bridge for a slightly tighter / treble sound. Just try playing the string near on the bridge and the same string then around the neck. Quite a lot of difference there and the pickup placement will show that difference.



[quote name='LordAvon' post='73499' date='Oct 12 2007, 06:02 PM']All,

Ok, got my first DIY bass, all good. It's assembled (pics are somewhere around here).
It's a J bass (two standard J pickups) and I've received my Seymour Duncan STKJ2 Hot stack (WOW! what a sound) and my SPB2 Hotpickups.

So two questions,

1) Which way round to position the P pickups? the most common configuration seems to have the D+G pickup nearer the bridge, but I've been reseraching and many people seem to think the E+A pickup should be nearer he bridge. Anyone any opinions and why?

2) I've never used a router before, I assume I'll need to clamp down my bass body, mark the position of the P pickup holes, and take my time and make sure I don't go too deep. I plan on using the existing J pickup hole as the starting point for both halves of the P pickup holes, so I shouldn't need to pre-drill any corners or start points.

I'm going to buy myself a router (slightly more than renting, but I've had enough fun with this project that I"m going to build a second so It'll come in handy in future), any advice on what ttype of bit I need?

Oh, I've also made my own pick guard for the P pickup which currently has no holes for pickups as I'll wait until the P's are in place before doing that. I've also got enough plastic left to do another two if I'm not happy.

Any/all advice very much welcomed.

Paul[/quote]

Find an allen key that fits this, apply it to the head that is loose, (and if you do have two truss rods, then just try the one that is ok to get a feel for it). Now try the loose one, attempt to align the head level and on the same plane as the truss rod is lying inside the neck, slowly turn the allen key in the head until you feel the thread being taken up, not forcing it but it should "grab" the thread and wind on easily.
Maybe you know someone who is competent with metal work who could figure it out if you aren't confident. For instance, I once visited my local hardware store that had a full machine workshop and a chap there helped me out with some metal parts for basses. Just DON'T force anything, I did once bend the end of a "quality"(?!!) trussrod.




[quote name='SIXARMSOFCHAOS' post='71115' date='Oct 8 2007, 04:37 PM']Hi there Bassists.

Yesterday I was playing and suddenly I saw that one of my trussrods had slipped out!?
WTF! I've never seen this happen. My action is still ok and I haven't picked up any warping on the neck. Should I just screw it back in?[/quote]

The pickup system on a decent bass would cost more than this bass alone, so, you'll get what yer pays for, a cheap n' cheerful starter bass. It isn't a lot to lose for a knock about bass, is it?
Maybe they will do a deal on a bass plus the orthapeadic mattress?


[quote name='RalphDWilson' post='72993' date='Oct 11 2007, 06:36 PM']Hi there,

anybody care to offer an opinion on the electro acoustic fretless basses on ebay ? For £59 (£74 delivered) they've either got to be utter dogs or the world's best bargain!

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fretless-Electro-Acoustic-Bass-Guitar-new-43in-Black_W0QQitemZ200134594123QQihZ010QQcategoryZ4713QQcmdZViewItem"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fretless-Electro-Aco...3QQcmdZViewItem[/url]

Please help me decide! And no, I'm not associated with the company, I just don't want to waste 74 notes!

regards

Ralph[/quote]

SOLD.
Fender Roscoe Beck five string fretted bass - Shoreline Gold finish with original case.
Looking at around £1075.
In beautiful condition. The bass is virtually unused having been bought for a particular gig that folded. It has had very little playing done on it. The set up is really good with a great action, plenty of sound options and volume, it sounds great across the whole neck. Strung with recent set of Galli strings. The low B has a good feel. It is a cracker of a bass.

The Fender specs go like this:

Alder select wood body.
Maple assymetric neck, "contoured" on the treble side for ease of high end playing.
2 humbuckers with mini toggle switches with a multitude of pickup combinations. (I believe made by Bill Lawrence).
22 medium jumbo frets. Pau Ferro fingerboard 9.5" radius
3 position pickup selector. Master volume and master tone with push/pull mid shaping.
Gotoh bridge. Hipshot Ultralite tuners.
34" scale length. 1.875/47.6mm nut width. Graphite neck rods.
6 bolt neck plate. 3 ply Mint Green pickguard


By the way, Roscoe Beck is the ace bassist in the excellent USA guitarist Robben Ford's band. I still use the excellent 4 string version.
I'm told these 5 stringers aren't available anymore. I think this Shoreline Gold is also the best colour for this bass model.
I would much prefer any buyer to pickup or meet up somewhere but postage and insurance can be arranged.

[quote name='The Burpster' post='70390' date='Oct 6 2007, 06:09 PM']Urrrm do the basses hum that bad anywhere else?

If not you may need a new earth fitting to your house....... No its not a wind up!

There should be somewhere an earth spike or strap sunk into the floor, and this MAYBE at fault..... Do you have a mate thats a domestic electrician?[/quote]

Yes, my neighbour electrician also explained to me that our very old house probably needed a new earth terminal, as work on a new patio tore an old copper wiring strip out from somewhere. He reckoned this could have been an ancient house earth. Also, check that your place has a new fuse box with multiple trip switches. These new boxes are ( a pain sometimes) very sensitive and can even trip when a light bulb blows. But, they should be safer than the old standard single trip. If you have an earthing problem, GET IT SORTED mate, soon as possible. Maybe the electrical board will test your mains?

Switchcraft also available from WD music in the UK (online site too). They only seem to carry the silver ones but as previously mentioned here, the switchcraft are the best at present. I am talking the barrel stereo ones here.
Also, yes to buying the better and authentic brand as the cheaper stuff is really "cheap" and won't last. For a couple of quid more, we don't want to re-solder too often!
I have found that jack plugs and sockets can a miniscule difference in circumference sizes between manufacturers. Some jack plugs I used were ever so slightly loose in the barrel, especially some gold plated ones. Try using Neutrik jacks, the REAL ones. They seem to fit the switchcraft barrels very well.



[quote name='Jean-Luc Pickguard' post='69121' date='Oct 3 2007, 04:26 PM']In the past I have used cheap & cheerful "no name" sockets from Maplin or my local electronics trade counter. They often need replacing as the metal it too thin. I now only use Switchcraft jacks, which can be bought from here: [url="http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/electrical_jacksstereo.htm"]http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/electri...jacksstereo.htm[/url] if you don't mind ordering from the states. THe switchcrafts are much better quality than the flimsy generic ones and I've never had to replace one.[/quote]

Don't try pushing these pole pieces, as already mentioned, you may well break the internal magnet/copper wiring connection. I fitted a set of Di Marzio's that have adjustable pole pieces that use an allen key. The thing is even then I altered the height on one of the pole pieces too far and defeated the signal until I dropped it down again. Good pickups for the job though.



[quote name='Stickman' post='68883' date='Oct 3 2007, 12:32 AM']Does anyone know if it is possible to change the height of the pole pieces on 'USA Vintage J-Bass' pickups (as found on a CIJ '62 reissue Fender Jazz bass)?[/quote]

SOLD A full metal flightcase.

[quote name='Adee' post='68280' date='Oct 1 2007, 05:46 PM']Deffo look at the Markbass 102HF i've got the 4x10" version and it superb, but big
the 2x10" will suit most fo your needs in a fairly light weight package

[/quote]

This photo looks like the much newer 2x10 with one front port. I'd like to try this model against the taller/older one that I have with twin front ports.
I've found these cabs to be much lighter than my old Peavey setup. I shed near 90lbs of "gigging load" from loading, humping and reloading equipment to the car by changing over to Mark Bass. Still got the same speaker setup and amp power too.

[quote name='Viajero' post='68242' date='Oct 1 2007, 04:53 PM']Ok, here's the situation: I've got a LMKII (300W into 8), and I need a lightweight cab to pair it with as a small rig. Needs to be powerful but portable, a cab I can carry in one hand.

I was thinking of an MB Traveller 210, but have recently seen favourable reviews of Aguilar GS112(NT) & DB112. If you had 400-odd pounds to play with, what one cab would you get to cover all kinds of small- to medium-sized gigs?

Your help would be much appreciated - your collectivev experience is far greater than mine.[/quote]
Mark Bass do a variety of cabinets. Have you tried the bigger 2x10 with top and bottom front ports. It moves a bucketful of bass end for a 2x10.

Also...the way a bass built can affect the string tension. I have an old Aria Pro bass thru neck 34" inch scale. The string tension feels tighter than on other basses using the same strings and gauge as on another bass. The thru neck on the Aria is "set " at an angle to the body surface, basically it tilts back from the body similar to Gibson guitars with their set and glued in necks. This type of manufacture to me, gives more tension on the strings so that two basses (with the same string type/gauges) can have a different string tension.



[quote name='mybass' post='66700' date='Sep 28 2007, 01:16 AM']For some reason inherent in the type of steel/nickel used in the string, same gauges of different strings can feel and pull differently. Remebmer, that low B is prone to elasticity, it will want to resonate/vibrate even when you aren't playing it so the thicker gauge strings should act and sound better. You may now find yourself looking at a different string manufacturer to help with this problem. I think Picato are a reasonably priced string but you may have to "up" your price now. That low B is a bit of a doozy to control.[/quote]

Thanks for the info Stefano. I have emailed Basslines. They had ETS in their listings but didn't seem to have avail. for the headless stuff. We'll see.



[quote name='stenobass' post='66799' date='Sep 28 2007, 11:26 AM']For ETS hardware you can try the German link [b]www.bassline-bass.de[/b] and go to their online shop. I am currently looking at the same type of bridge for a project. They can supply within 2 weeks.

Cheers,
Stefano[/quote]

Ok Gizmo, thaks for getting back to me anyway, much appreciated.


[quote name='Gizmo' post='64879' date='Sep 24 2007, 05:20 PM']Sorry Mybass

Michael beat you to this unit about a month or so back

I've had a quick poke around my hdd and i cant find any pic's of it i know snapped a few off but i cant locate them(been through a OS reinstall snice then)

fire Michael a pm and see if he can grab you a few im not sure if he has made use of the unit on a build yet

Soz
Gizmo[/quote]

For some reason inherent in the type of steel/nickel used in the string, same gauges of different strings can feel and pull differently. Remebmer, that low B is prone to elasticity, it will want to resonate/vibrate even when you aren't playing it so the thicker gauge strings should act and sound better. You may now find yourself looking at a different string manufacturer to help with this problem. I think Picato are a reasonably priced string but you may have to "up" your price now. That low B is a bit of a doozy to control.



[quote name='mytilini' post='66677' date='Sep 27 2007, 11:27 PM'][font="Arial"][/font][size="2"][/size]
Evening everyone. I'm new to Basschat, but would really like some help on a 5-string I've just bought. I've been a 4-string player for too long and needed to get a 5-string for my band's new songs. So, bought a Bruce Wei Custom Shop mother-of-pearl inlaid active jobby; twin soap-bar pick-ups, active, luthier-made bone nut, 35-inch scale, through-body string-fitting bridge, etc.

Thought I'd stick to my standard Picato 735LM nickel roundwound strings in .040", .060", .075", .095" guages and add either a .115" or .120" for the bottom-B. Picato suggested the .120". I tried both, agreed that the .120" is better. My luthier did the set-up correctly, but I'm REALLY disappointed with how the low-B has turned out.

It's indistinct, floppy, not a "solid" tension and actually makes trying to pick-out the pitch of the lowest five frets' notes VERY difficult.

Any help or ideas please? Should I use heavier guage strings all round? I've been used to 34-inch scale fretted & fretless basses with those guages from the one manufacturer - I'd hate to have to change the guage of the top 4 strings, but how do I increase the tension and definition of the bottom string....? Does it matter if I have to go to, say, a .140" or above...?

I humbly await your constructive suggestions - please...! [/quote]

Peavey 10" kevlar bass speaker. 8 ohm. New condition, carried as spare on tour. £20 plus postage.

I agree with "Buzz" about contacting WD Music. They are helpful and their posting is speedy. As far as a concentric pot, that can mean there is a battery run system in there so if thats the case, Status basses may also be able to help. I think on the following address........
www.status-graphite.com



[quote name='lonestar' post='64551' date='Sep 23 2007, 11:09 PM']I have just acquired a late model 1990's one of these with a dodgy treble/bass pot.
It's a stacked concentric one and I've tried the usual jet air followed by switch cleaner thing but I think it needs replacing.
Anyone know the correct type and where I can source one? I might as well replace the mid/mid sweep one too I guess.
Peavey UK didn't want to know and were no help at all as the bass is "obsolete".
Any other info on these basses also greatly appreciated.

I've not seen one before but its otherwise really nice.[/quote]

Must be serious if they won't even allow chocolate on the list! Even a watch!! Jeez........Basically then, give us your money and expect the worst and hope for the best.

[quote name='Sugden' post='4720' date='May 22 2007, 10:01 PM']Hi I know a number of people on here used to, and maybe still do send their basses with parcel2go and I would advise against it after reading the uninsurable list. Guitars (all)

"The following items (or any item similar in description or content) can only be carried on an uninsured basis on any service.
Any person sending such an item does so at their own risk:
Added 1/1/2007:"

[url="http://www.parcel2go.com/shipping-items.aspx#unins"]http://www.parcel2go.com/shipping-items.aspx#unins[/url]

Just thought I would post it up. I normaly send my basses with them but have had to go with UPS this time due to not been able to send the bass insured with parcel2go. Dont want anyone missing that bit of info loosing their bass or it getting damaged in the post and have nothing to show for it for a broken or lost bass [/quote]

Finally got theough to Woodtronics. They informed me that the factory was undergoing new building works/upgrade and that was the reason for no orders coming through. They are looking at an order and costs as I type this.
Thanks.


[quote name='RIM Basses' post='25493' date='Jul 1 2007, 07:53 AM']Hi Mybass,

You could try ordering thru Enrico at www.woodandtronics.com in italy, other wise maybe check out ABM or Status. My last order with ETS took a while to get to me.

Cheers,

Robbie.[/quote]

My apologies Gizmo for not replying to you (or did I!!?).
I have been chasing up ETS but could you tell me or send a photo of the actual unit you have (had?).?
many thanks.


[quote name='Gizmo' post='29325' date='Jul 9 2007, 08:36 PM']Hi Mybass

I have a 4 string headless bridge/tunner unit that i brought for a project thats no longer going to be used




as i recall spacing is 19mm (i'll check when i visit my workshop next)
it does'nt have a string retainer but you could team it up with one from status

your's for £25 (that inc postage) if its of any use to you let me know

Cheers
steve[/quote]