mybass

7 hours ago, chris_b said:

The biggest difference/improvement happened in the 90's, when I bought my first digital tuner. Instant, accurate and silent tuning.

Yes, digital tuners got rid of having to bite down on a steel tuning fork on stage!

6 hours ago, MacDaddy said:

 

I'm with them through the MU. I've used them once, when I was shunted from behind. There was no damage but their advice was useful in reporting the incident without making a claim.

Can't see a catch myself, it's free and the MU would not recommend them if they were not legit.

I didn't look far enough then on the MU site to realise its a free service....must look it up...

On 20/03/2021 at 10:57, Bass Wielder said:

In these unfortunate times, penny pinching and researching has become a big thing (for me at least). 
Anyone here a with the MU?

Anyone used this scheme before? 

Useful or is there a catch?

Hopefully I won’t bring up too many bad memories, incidents etc but positive information. 👍🏽

 I finally looked at the MU site but I think this scheme is available elsewhere in the market place. It looks like a scheme that can run alongside your normal car insurance but can cover stuff not included in car insurance......but maybe some of these ‘extra’ cover points could be made through your current car insurance anyway? Still not clear completely tome but I guess there is a point to it, apart from making money!

6 hours ago, Phil C said:

Just realised I hadn't left feedback!  I bought an SKB flightcase from Pete - it was exactly as described, we had great communications, it was sent quickly and wrapped carefully!  Thank you Pete!

Cheers Phil!

Try this place....I don’t know this instrument shop but it seems closest to you........or they may be able to put you onto someone.

https://www.theviolinshop-glasgow.co.uk

47 minutes ago, bloke_zero said:

Great thing to do and share - there are a million threads where we're asked to judge a bass by looks (and this one does look great!) but hardly any where there are sound clips.

Thanks for the positive comments bloke-zero.....

On 07/04/2021 at 17:00, bloke_zero said:

Great sounding bass - really liking the reverse P sound. I think I liked the Barts - the Nordstrand was good and crisp but the barts seemed to growl more.

Yes...thanks .....For some reason the Barts were giving a slightly better sound to my ears. I had to do this comparison test for myself to distinguish the sounds off each pup and as the Stella was in situ it was the right time to do it.

35 minutes ago, franzbassist said:

When we're out of lockdown I'd like to hear this in the flesh (I'm in Alton), as I'm considering one for my passive fretless.

Yep, I’ve bought from you a few years ago .

 The Stellartone Triple Six Tone pot was purchased from Bass Direct.

As 'ToneStyler' state on the instruction sheet..." Drop in replacement for your muddy, unused tone control......Selectively cuts treble while retaining vital mid-range and rich harmonics....Choose classic & modern tones, plus your bass or guitars original tone......100% passive analogue circuitry increases output and clarity, no batteries-zero noise!"

I had often wondered what the 'Stellartone' single potentiometer sounded like so I've loaded one into a new bass build with a single 'P' pickup but 'reversed. The pot is simple to wire into any existing control cavity but is deeper than a normal single tone pot. As it happened I had an old piece of swamp ash in store, (a bit of a throw away piece in the old days because it has a couple of open knots in it, nowadays much sort after ?(😅). I decided to try a 33" scale fretted build with a single pup and three piece maple neck and maccassar ebony fingerboard....D'Addario  nickel bass strings 100-45s.

 I've added two mP3s...one with a Bartolini 'P' pup and one with a Nordstrand Big Blade 'P' pup. I prefered the Bartolini, it seems to be a bit 'clearer' when the Stellartone is turned through its 6 positions. Maybe speakers or headphones will help as I turn the control from the first posiion through to the 6th position and then quickly back....you may hear the 'clicks' as I turn the pot to each position. These were recorded through a MXR bass preamp into Logic pro X.

Lastly...I'm just hoping these download okay!!

Bass Stellartone Triple 6 Bartolini.mp3 Bass Stellartone Triple 6 NORDSTRAND .mp3

Omeg is/was a UK firm where I once sourced pots from......Sussex way I think.

19 hours ago, xgsjx said:

Well after having used the Kali for a bit, I can say they sound superb.  Why they're as cheap as they are, I do not know.  But thank you to everyone who pointed them out.  I've not been disappointed.

At first I was a little disappointed in the lows, but then I moved back from them a touch & found it all.  It's just about sitting in the right spot.
Just now they're about 7' apart & I'm sat about 7' away from each of them.  I'm doing a spot of mixing (mostly adding a vocal track & getting it to sit nicely), but they're also great for just playing instruments through.

Bluetooth would have been a nice option so I could play the TV through them, but I got an optical to RCA box & that does exactly what I need it to.  TV sounds fantastic through them too.

Yes. Always the right spot in a room for hearing the best. I’ve been in some big rooms and wondered what on earth the engineer was mixing up until I stood behind or next to them. Glad you got sorted.

I was looking out for a decent 5 string for a bit of home studio( or using a 4 string with low set of strings) and found these basses, liking the satin finish Midnight Blue/ roasted or is it baked maple neck and a similar satin Burgundy colour with other options. I found several on UK /Euro websites for sale but we’re not actually available or were coming to shops in the future later in the year.

Has anyone got one and what would be your experience of it?

3 hours ago, Burns-bass said:

What a great gig that must have been. In the presence of genius it’s tempting to try and analyse what they do, but sometimes it’s better to forget we’re musicians and just enjoy. I remember seeing a performance by Christian McBride (in amplified) and it was incredible. (Didn’t stop a few people on the audience falling asleep, mind you)

On the second night I stayed to the end of their second set and got to speak with Neils over a pint at the bar .... a very nice man.

I’ve saw him a few times at Ronnie Scott’s, once on two consecutive nights in duo with guitarist Joe Pass. The interplay was incredible, which was why I went back a second night. His intonation, timing and subtlety was superb. Indeed, one of the greatest double bass players.

You may want to put up a link about this to the MU website?

Another problem with frets to watch out for with measuring.....I have two different makes of metre long steel rulers marked with inch and cm/mm. I’ve recently put them side by side and they are out with each other. Currently looking at expensive proven rulers!

14 hours ago, Si600 said:

Out of interest, how do you mark .382 of a mm to cut it?

Tell me! That’s why I’m interested in finding a place that has an in situ machine!

6 hours ago, Jabba_the_gut said:

I’ve a feeling using a 35” slotting template and skipping the first fret will give you very near to 33” scale. I’ll have a look later and let you know.

Really?

2 hours ago, rmorris said:

Not understanding how that makes difference to the 'backward movement' range ?

There is a certain amount of space within the saddle for the screw to alter where the saddle will sit...ie, it either 'unscrews' / forwards the saddle until and saddle falls off the screw or it screws backwards and the screw will reach the limit it can turn within the saddle. I found filing the screw down a few mm (on a Hipshot) bridge helped pull the saddle back a little further. 

32 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

^ This

If you are a bit nervous, then just assemble and adjust that saddle without the spring at all (the spring is only there to keep the adjuster screw tight against the body while the lock screw is loose and you are adjusting the position - once the lock screw is tight, then the spring doesn't do anything). 

The Babicz has an immense amount of adjustment with the three tapped holes for the locking screw and so it is unlikely that it can't get far enough back.  However, the spring has to be long enough for the furthest forward position.  As such, long springs can have a tendency to fully compress before the full range of rear adjustment can be reached...hence, sometimes, you need to snip the spring. 

I have filed the screw shorter itself to gain a little extra backward movement but the filed end has to be smothed off to allow it to screw easily back into the saddle.

May I add that pictures may help us out here to see better....?

The 'dampit' I have I think was a D'Addario one. It doesn't drip or leak water, the tube slowly 'expels' moisture and shrivels in size when dried out. I think its better than nothing (as pictured above, I also use a couple of drill hole lidded containers). My double bass tutor of many years ago made his own ‘dampit’ from a piece of plastic tubing, about 1" wide with holes drilled along the length. It had foam inside to soak up water, blocked both ends with one end having a piece of wood or plastic across it to stop it falling through the F hole, simply left it in his DB, this was way before commercial companies made them.

20 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Ah - correction...not 33"

I may give David a call on this, thanks.

22 hours ago, bertbass said:

I'd do it myself.  Plenty of youtube videos and of course in the build threads right here in the build diaries.

 

Fret positions can be found here, https://www.stewmac.com/fretcalculator.html

Yes I use the Stewmacs thanks....I do cut fret slots by hand but I wondered if there was anyone with a 'spot on' setup who already cuts them as a business so I could call and order same week type of thing.....and in 33" scale, which none of the current people I find will do due to having to set up a new jig.

6 hours ago, lancer said:

Hi

I fitted a Babicz bridge to my p bass today.

The neck relief is correct, so is the action.

The intonation is spot on, apart from the E string.

12 harmonic is perfect but 12 th fretted is sharp.

There is no more adjustment on the bridge.

Any ideas?

 

Strings.....are they in good order or old? Try a new E string as an old one can be ‘out of tune’.

Bridge....take the old one and try and line it on top of the Babitz to see where the saddles line up or not. I think the same the same screw holes are used?

6 hours ago, lancer said:

Hi

I fitted a Babicz bridge to my p bass today.

The neck relief is correct, so is the action.

The intonation is spot on, apart from the E string.

12 harmonic is perfect but 12 th fretted is sharp.

There is no more adjustment on the bridge.

Any ideas?

 

Have a look at this website....https://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator

and it should be showing you where frets for a 34 inch scale bass should be set and at the bottom of the page is their measurement from the nut (where the fret side of the nut) to where a Fender bridge SCREW line should be set....there is a small plus/ minor degree measurement. Good luck....

2 hours ago, lancer said:

Hi

I fitted a Babicz bridge to my p bass today.

The neck relief is correct, so is the action.

The intonation is spot on, apart from the E string.

12 harmonic is perfect but 12 th fretted is sharp.

There is no more adjustment on the bridge.

Any ideas?

 

Strings.....are they in good order or old? Try a new E string as an old one can be ‘out of tune’.

Bridge....take the old one and try and line it on top of the Babitz to see where the saddles line up or not. I think the same the same screw holes are used?