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King Tut

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Posts posted by King Tut

  1. I just bought a Geddy Lee Jazz body off of Chris. It was exactly as described except he threw in a BA II bridge instead of a standard thingy!! Checked it was OK first - which - of course - it was. The body was well packaged, and he kept me up to date throughout the transaction. Couldn't have asked for more - thanks dude!!

    Col

  2. I've just bought a rather super fully loaded Geddy Body from chrisdabass, and I'm wanting to put a black sceratchplate on it. I've checked on Bass Parts resource, and I've seen they do a specific replacement for the geddy. However, I was really looking for something with the pickup cover holes and lower thumbrest holes ala pre 74 ish. Of course - I could always just drill these into a standard scratchplate.

    Does anyone know if there's any difference in the hole spacing with a geddy guard - or maybe it's just the single screw hole in the middle that makes it specific. Whaddya reckon guys and gals?

  3. [quote name='Happy Jack' post='185965' date='Apr 26 2008, 03:44 PM']If the NSP210 is an 8-ohm model then Thunderbirds Are Go and the Man From Del Monte He Say "Yes".

    All we need then is some mechanism which will magically transport a 35lb cab from Swindon to West London ...[/quote]

    That'll be First Great Western then - hope you're not in a rush!! (London Midland employee!)

  4. Thank you miss penguin it was very helpful - although from the two replies, I'm obviously going to have to experiment with the tightness of the bow! The gig went really well, but we were running a bit behind time, and guess what number I dropped? That's right - the one that used the bow.....coward that I am!!

  5. [quote name='MB1' post='184448' date='Apr 24 2008, 12:26 PM']MB1. :huh:
    What!....Ronnie Jordan? ;)

    An original AH 250 GP 11(immaculate condition/recently serviced/all 100%)with cover circa 1980s on Ebay sold for £190 Last week only a couple of miles away from me....... still gutted! :)[/quote]

    Hee hee - I got one of them!! Awesome!

  6. I've started using a bow on my NS CR5 and I want to clear a few questions up - quickly if possible as I've got my first gig featuring the bow on one song this friday!

    First off - how do I know if I've adjusted the bow to the correct amount of tension?

    Should I loosen the bow off after use?

    How often should I apply rosin to the bow, and how much?

    I'm getting a build up of rosin on the strings, should I clean it off and if so, with what?

    Any other tips would be appreciated dudes!

  7. VM Jazz's are great. I'd keep the pups, and change the bridge for a BA or maybe a Gotoh. Having said that, the standard bridge, although basic, is fairly substantial, and made of thicker metal than many older fenders. Once set up - they're pretty good as standard.

  8. I thoroughly agree. i went into a shop about 8 or 9 years ago with £800 to spend on a new US precision. Tried 3 of them and walked out with a mex precision. One of my favourite current gigging basses is also a mex precision. Basses really are a sum of their parts and not about the country of origin - although there are features on US fenders that 'should' make them better - graphite reinforced neck, better sounding pups, more substantial bridge/body through stringing - doesn't always work that way though!

  9. I recently bought an S1 sunburst Jazz off of flanker and I've got to say it's one of the nicest basses I've ever owned. Everything is just perfect finish wise. I love the S1 - gives me the best of both worlds - the neck finish - kind of a plasticky satin is hugely comfortable.

    I reckon the neck will be pretty stable due to the graphite rods, the bridge is more substantial than those of olde, and it's overall just.....nice. Not sure why they did away with the S1 on jazzes - ideas?

  10. Thanks Stephen - but it was OK when new - it's only started farting recently. I'll ring Thomann next week. I'd really like to put some better speakers in the boxes to be honest - synaesthesia could you recommend something that would work well?

  11. OK here's the speaker showing the surround - looks standard to me



    And here's the damage



    The edge of the driver seems to be loose around a lot of the edge, I'm a bit hacked off with Thomann as I've emailed three people there since sunday and no one's responded. The price you pay for cheap gear I suppose!

  12. Being a cheapskate, I bought a pair of active subs (the box 12A) from Thomann. One of the drivers has torn and needs replacing. I may get this done under warranty but to be honest - I've lost faith in them a bit.

    Would it be feasible to replace them with something easily available, that will sound good? I've had a look at the driver, and there's no manufacturers name on it, but it's labelled as 4 ohm, and the spec for the whole speaker rate it at 300W output, so I'm assuming the speaker is rated at least that.

    I don't really understand about enclosure design, X max and all that, so can anyone recommend a driver to do the job. I was thinking along the lines of an eminence delta 12LF 4 ohm (around £50 - 60 each) - would that be suitable? Suggestions please but can't spend a fortune!

  13. Hi Graham - yes it's still available. Be aware that you need to be careful with the resistance of extension cabs used with this as it gives all it's 250W into it's own speakers at 4 ohms. The extension cab out is wired in series so if you add an 8 ohm cab - it drops power - but you can add multiple cabs making it louder due to the extra speaker surface area.

    On it's own - it's pretty pokey, and has a control to boost the lows and highs to make it fairly 'modern' sounding. It's also got as parametric control that i use to either dial out bad room vibes, or add a bit of high mid for 'clicky' rock attack. Copes fine with a loud drummer in medium sized halls.

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