Joebethell

👆☝️ 👍☺

Hi i have had a couple of questions do here goes the weight on my scales is 9.42lbs which is a surprise the body is one piece alder so I'm guessing that adds to the weight but on the strap it really doesn't feel that heavy. (your welcome to come try the bass)

Second I'm located in Market Harborough Leicestershire thanks.

Up again

Back off hols rice dropped to £750ono thanks

Back to the top Will be away till the 2nd Sept if anyone wants to get in touch with offers or trades will try and respond when I have internet if not will be when I get back.

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1503297380' post='3356919']

This one should be a reasonably easy fix. If it was me, I would drill a decently sized hole (10mm dia minimum) to the screw depth with a forstner bit and glue in a hardwood dowel. There will be enough surface contact with the dowel for the gaps not to be critical. Most of the force on the bridge screws is sideways so it should be perfectly secure enough.
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THANKS that's a great tip 👍

[quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1502432764' post='3351334']
Looking closely at your new bridge I wonder if you might have a problem with the attaching screws. It looks from your photos as if the screws will bite at the point where the neck root meets the body beneath the top.
[/quote]

So had a quick look this week but progress has been hampered by two things.

Firstly I was going to fit the tuners only to find that I had been sent the wrong size 1/2" rather than the 3/8ths that had been ordered. After a couple of emails in which it was implied that I was at fault even though I have a clear email history with my specs stated they asked me to send back the incorrect items and the correct tuners would be sent out same day. I replied sharply saying I would post asap only to now be told they are out of stock so I have to wait 3/4weeks.

Setback 2 as you thought it looks like the bridge mounting screws will be at the point where the neck meets the body the centre two screws would be in solid neck wood but the outer two would be in the gaps you can see in the pictures.

Up once again for this beauty.

I had a sneaky bid but wasn't going over 20quid as I'm just trying to get a little system setup in the spare room. And these looked interesting.

Bump

[quote name='Karl Derrick' timestamp='1502400799' post='3351275']
Lovely to see this bass again.

I built it.

I sold it to Wunjo's who said it went right away to a new home.

The neck does have a trussrod, and the body is one piece French Alder. Very light and resonant.

The scratchplate is made from a special imported material. I haven't seen any more of it.
The control cavity cover is hand made from 2mm brass sheet and then patinated to give the dark brown colour.

The body finish is very thin, very hard melamine lacquer.

Somebody should jump on this. It cost more than the asking price to build.


Karl
[/quote] nice to finally know where the bass came from. It's a beauty but I can't justify keeping at this time.

[quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1502532296' post='3352032']


Do the bridge screws bite on a good piece of timber or are they right on the end of the neck beam?

If they are close you might want to take the bridge recess to a depth that would allow you to insert a make-up piece. The make-up piece would be attached to both the neck beam and the body allowing you to attach the bridge to it and thereby remove the risk of splitting the end of the neck beam.

I'd suggest with the CA (Cyanoacrylate) glue that you try it on the back first because it usually causes a whitish residue or bloom to appear on surfaces near where it is applied. I am not sure how easily the resulting blemish would buff out. For safety, ventilate the area when you use it anyway but it might help to keep a light draught airflow across the surfaces being repaired to lessen the bloom effect.

But you know all of that already right?
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Thank you all advise is more than welcome

I will do my best to keep it as close to original as I can I might try and just remove the lump of finish that has pooled in the bridge recess and fill any gaps with superglue as suggested. As the bass was never completed I might have to route the pickup deeper as it's quite shallow and drill a channel for wiring as it doesn't have one currently

Yep it was at the Midland Bass Bash and it got some love from a few basschatters.

The status necks do have trussrods so can be adjusted if by slim chance it's required or to setup to your liking I guess.

Thanks I was wondering about chemical strip or just going st it with sandpaper and elbow grease. Scrapper might work but I'm concerned if I catch I might take a chunk out.

Finish is pretty thick a few placed are chipped away and i would say around a mm/0.5mm ish I need to get some callipers really to give it a proper measurement

SOLD OUTSIDE BASSCHAT PENDING THE USUAL

The time has come to part with the beautiful bass.

I don't know the full story behind the build if it was a custom made bass or if it was a very well made self build I purchased the bass from Wunjo a while back after falling for it in the shop and paid a lot more than I'm asking.

The body is one piece construction of either Ash or Alder with a lovely brown finish, status Jazz neck which is amazing to play really smooth with superb frets that mean you can get a low action and no buzz (currently strung with la bella low tension flats)
Tuners and Bridge are Shaller with a gun metal finish that has been aged/brushed back to show the copper which is real effective. The bass also has a one off scratch plate and control cover which are slightly different to your average jazz.

Pickups are marked with what looks like SMB 71-10 and a date of 04-15. currently connected to a 6way selector (like tonestyler) two volumes and a push pull for series/Parallel for that fat humbucker sound.

Will come with a fender gig bag your welcome to come try the bass or I'm happy to posted (it will be boxed up very well etc)

850ono not really looking for trades but if the right short scale came along or could be tempted by some electronic/synth gear

So its been a while since i got hold of the SD and a little bit of progress has been made. Firstly i managed to squeeze the truss rod nut back on.

After hunting high and low for a suitable Badass with no success i decided to order a Hipshot 656 spaced bridge that fits the bass really well also while ordering i got matching tuners which all showed up this week.

I have not got round to fitting them yet but here are some better photos of the bass so you can see the condition of the finish. Its the one big dilemma I am facing as some of it will have to come off to fit parts like the bridge as it stops it sitting level the problem being its very very brittle and i think I'm going to end up having to stripping the whole bass.

Anyway Photos as promised and more progress to come soon.

Hi Hofner Violin basses normally have a set neck joint rather than a bolt on? Is this another modification? Does the bass have any other labelling rather than just the headstock faded logo? Have you had a look at the pickups and electronics?

Yeah pickups,tuners should be easy the old badass with the narrower spacing will be the tricky bit unless anyone has one in a stash

I have not weighed it yet but will when I get to starting the project.
The SD curlee has an extended bolt on neck and the early models have a large brass neck plate and control cover on the rear. This bass is slightly later so would have had aluminium covers instead and I believe even later on they used set necks just before they disappeared.

Love my D800+ also I tried a number of amps before purchasing the Mesa even A/B'ing it with the darkglass before my final choice. Sound so right to me through a 1x12 hoping to get another cab in the future to get the 4ohm and extra power (not that I need it)

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1497543234' post='3319015']
That's looking like a very special bit of wood . This one will be well worth the wait for - don't rush it

Andy
[/quote]

Cheers Andy sure I will be pestering you shortly for advise 😜

Yeah I'm leaning towards keeping it as original as I can. It's going to come down to sourcing parts the bridge is a tough one and the finish may have to come off as the neck joint is being held by the finish as well as the bolts so to get the trussrod sorted I'm going to struggle to squeeze a new nut on.

I really don't know yet first job is to get a nut on the truss rod after that it's all still undecided.

scott did provide a detailed hand written letter of the parts/build he thinks it would have been made up with so if I do go with just getting as close to it would have been I would have a starting point.