Twincam

The commonly told story on the name. After a naming competition in a bass magazine on the new Warwick bass, a violin maker also named altus threatened legal action. This was after Warwick spent money on advertising. So it become the Warwick F.N.A. Formerly named altus or apparently in the Warwick factory F***ing not altus.

These have fairly thin necks if im right? 

Bass looks really nice! No spare funds unfortunately. 

You can hardly get a pbass tone wrong. It has one position of pu, and 2 controls. It's hard to mess up.

An active bass with 2 or more pickups,  multi coil taps, multi eq. Is naturally, but not always going to be that bit more of an unknown quantity and have a wider range of tone which isn't a bad thing at all. 

39 minutes ago, BigRedX said:

Works for those particular strings on that particular bass, according to your tastes. That is all.

Indeed. But most people including me have said they have heard no difference in the different ways to string up. 

But now I have.

Well for the first time there's been a difference in stringing through the body vs the bridge. I was surprised.

Got some eb cobalt flats the other day. Today was the first time I've had a good play on them. Couldn't get a good string balance in volume/tone. No matter what I did with the pickups, setup etc. The E especially and the A was louder and the e was weirdly over bassy, if you can have such a thing haha. This is on a Ibanez atk 400. 

So thought I would try stringing through the body. Got as far as the e and a and the volume balance is good and the tone is more even. The bass is now more equal. There is a clear difference. There has been no difference in sustain at all. Going to leave the other strings, I like the balance now.

Im wondering if it's due to the eb cobalt strings or the atk bridge as stringing through bridge is not actually through the bridge it's more ball slotted into the bass bridge plate. Anyhow it's the first time ever I've heard a difference at all. 

On another note I'm not sure I do like the cobalt flats now, but at 45 odd pound there staying on! Maybe they will improve. 

Well I finally got some eb cobalt flats myself. Only a few years since I said I was going to haha. 

What a pain fitting the e string. Silk was too thick at the ball end for fitting, either in the bridge or through body (Atk 400). So had to adjust the silk. The other strings were fine. Lots of creaking going on while initially tuning up, more than any other string I've heard by far. 

Didn't get much time to play them but first impressions are good. Nice and bright, good feel. I like that there slightly grippy, a bit like half rounds. Good output in volume. Tone wise I suppose there a bit like a slightly played in roundwound. Be interesting to see how they develop. 

Hopefully they will last a good while. The Fender flats I like, I only get 2 months maybe 3, out of them before I feel they start to decline too much for my liking. 

37 minutes ago, Bridgehouse said:

I’ve not tried him yet. I’ll leave it for a bit and drop him a line later in the month. I think it is fixable (from when I dropped it off) and I guess I will see what the cost is etc. 

However, whether I keep it when it’s back here is up in the air. I’m sure it will be totally strong as a fix and perfect - but, you know, when the confidence goes, it’s difficult to get back

I know what you mean about the losing confidence thing. But I really think that repair might actually come out stronger than before. And it's such a nice instrument. 

But if you do move it on, then it's understandable.

On another note I know people are busy with other things, Jon will have a lot on I'm sure. But it shouldn't take months to get a repair done. Im not having a go at anyone btw. Hopefully it will be back with you soon. 

Are we talking about the modern ones? I had one of these. I'm pretty sure it's a modern truss rod dual action, allen key. I would of remembered a nut on the end. 

It will start to tension the other way (forward bow), Useful for low tension strings sometimes.

Are you turning it with the strings on? Might help to loosen the strings a touch.

Also are you actually checking the relief properly. Not just eyeballing it.

No harm in turning the rod the other way, just to see what happens. 

1 hour ago, EssentialTension said:

I think you are talking about compliance not tension ... some explanation of the science below, if anyone is interested:

https://www.liutaiomottola.com/formulae/tension.htm

https://www.liutaiomottola.com/myth/perception.htm

 

 

I will give those a read.

But my thoughts are, the higher or lower the saddle the break point angle changes and the tension of the string at a given point is shifted back and forth somewhat. 

As a previous poster said a better setup lowers string tension. I'm not sure of all the science behind it. 

When fretting your not stretching the string down as much. And I have a theory that the higher or lower the saddle height moves the tension break point very slightly.

And normally shop instruments are setup terrible! Pet hate of mine. 

Typically ive just sold something on eBay, that I probably would of got slightly more on here for!

Funny how I even said it's worth advertising on here too, then fail to do so haha!

Be easier to spray in contact cleaner and turn the controls back and forth a good few times, repeating as necessary. 

Much cheaper and easier than replacing the pots. 

There's plenty of online diagrams though if you want to replace the pots anyhow. 

52 minutes ago, blisters on my fingers said:

Bought a few items on here with almost zero problems and a whole lot more on Ebay again with no problem at all.

Never sold a thing on Ebay however, so wondering what you would end up with if you sold a bass/ amp whatever for say £500 on Ebay.

I know Google exists  but I'd like to hear from the people on BC with actual experience of this. Thanks in advance

10% eBay fees and I think it's a 3.something% PayPal fee.

However many sell when there a £1 max fee on eBay which are fairly regular. 

As long as your willing to post, on eBay you will get a quicker sale and more money or at least enough to cover fees. This i feel is just because more people use eBay rather than anything wrong with the bc forum. Of course you make your chances of a sale better if advertising on both.

There is also the fact that most bass players are not on basschat. 

In the last 6 years of talking to other bass players at gigs etc, excluding people I've met on here. Only a few had even heard of basschat and only 1 other was a member. And that 1 member im pretty sure (I was drunk) I told him he should consider joining basschat a couple of years beforehand haha.

I've known/met many more guitarists and not any of them are members of a guitar forum. 

What a fantastic looking instrument!

Looking at the break once it's repaired I don't think it will give any problems, looks clean and lots of surface area. So don't be afraid of it going once repaired, although nothing is 100%. As others have said it's likely to be stronger after the repair. 

As for why it happened, it's hard to tell. Did the truss rod bend first and crack the wood or did the wood crack and truss rod bend after. 

Hopefully soon the bass will be back with you. 

On 28/11/2018 at 11:56, chrisbass5 said:

Here's a screenshot of what was done at service.... I'm not sure about opening it up myself Gary. Suppose I could take it back and ask engineer to have another check around. 

Read up on Watford valves and the replacement kits they provide.... seem popular and good feedback. Will give Derek a call, after I've had it back for 2nd inspection! 

Cheers guys. 

That all seems like an appropriate service. 

It's worth remembering that valves can fail anytime, even new. And if old valves were in when a bias was done it could of pushed one over the edge I suppose. 

As others said it could be a dirty socket, I don't see the mention of cleaning the sockets being done. So hopefully it will just be that. 

12 hours ago, gpw5150 said:

Isn’t soundwave pressure...air?

Not exactly it is a wave form/vibration. Sound travels through air but it's not air itself. That's also why you can hear under water. Or why you can hear sounds, in say a block of wood being tapped with your ear held against it. 

Click your finger close to your face, you won't feel that much air from it. Then blow on your hand. Which is louder and which do you feel more?

The sound of a port is not air rushing in and out. Just like the drivers themselves don't blow out air.

2 hours ago, Chienmortbb said:

Air moves out out rapidly from a tuned port as the back of my leg can testify. A hole in the cab could be a tuned port bit it is unlikely to work that we as the port length is only a few mm

I think this on the barefaced site explains it nicely. 

https://barefacedbass.com/technical-information/the-mysteries-of-ports.htm

What you might feel from a cab is soundwave presure but not air rushing in or out of a port. 

1 hour ago, fleabag said:

Are they tone pots ?

It's more like a passive eq. Cut only, bass and treble. They did it on the ebmm USA passive subs and supposedly they sound pretty good. 

The reason the cab farted out earlier was because there was now just a hole in it which acts very different from a tuned port. If you put your hand over the hole the air will move quickly in and out. On a tuned port that doesn't happen. 

While if there was a properly tuned port it would sound much better and there would be more bass/power handling. With the same drivers so likely you could make a proper porting and use the current drivers. But as you know from the modelling software better drivers and porting will be better. The cheapest option is to try self porting first making sure the port velocity is ok.

Not thinking much of the ruby (shuguang) valves that come stock in the pf20t. Although I think they sound alright.

Had a 12ax7 with an issue. And now I think a power output valve issue, got some slight crackling and other slight noises. Gave both tubes a tap one is absolutely silent the other microphonic, swapped them in opposite sockets issue follows the valve. 

Gives me a good excuse to get some nicer valves. And hope that solves things. 

Oh and its a shame the Kenny's deal ended. Wonder if it's anything to do with Yamaha now owning ampeg???

I kinda wish I bought the 50t when the offer was still on. However since this is purely a practice amp the 20t is more than enough to annoy the neighbours even through a little cab. And it sounds great! (when the valves are working lol). They still have them at kennys on offer, although £299 is still expensive for something only 20w, but it's a mighty fine 20w.

I really like the unique cab design and find it interesting they tried something different. Always wanted one myself, even though I'm not a TE fan. 

Replaced the v1 12ax7 in my pf20t, with a Tung sol 12ax7 reissue, after a few hours, seems to be an improvement in clarity and smoother breakup than the Chinese ruby it replaced. 

My eq is now flat, before I had to slightly cut the bass and boast mids and treble. Gain is about the same, disappointingly! I think I might buy a golden lion or sovtek 12ax7lps for v1 as they have a bit more gain apparently and move the tung sol to v2. 

Now I don't know if tube break in is real but I'm pretty sure after about 4 hours plus the tung sol improved a lot from first use. At first it seemed a bit wooly, it's now opened up. 

On 30/10/2018 at 17:04, dodgnofski said:

Managed to get the bottom of the bridge piece as flat as a Witches threepenny bit and despite a possible slight improvement, there is still a difference in volume - now, where's that Stanley Knife? 😃😃👍👍

How did it go?

What I do is heat the Stanley knife blade and slowly work through the bridge. And keep heating. Then I tidy it with sandpaper. Taking only a very tiny amount of material away from the bridge. Pop the two pieces back in and issue sorted.