Buzz

You probably could do it, but it would be a substantial job and probably not worth it as I'd imagine you'd need to strip the chrome off it very thoroughly in order to make any other paint stick (even primer), and then you've got to deal with getting an even but hardwaring finish as well.

Be easier to source a black version of the bridge, or a replacement that'll fit.

Normally black isn't that much more expensive than chrome plated. Gold can be, but not black.

[quote name='minty fresh death' post='533302' date='Jul 5 2009, 08:43 PM']Life has just served up another body-blow, looks like i'm going to have to sell it after all, a boy racer in a civic type r going far to fast went into me... knock for knock because it was in country lanes.

[/quote]

Surely it should be all on his insurance if he hit you?

To be fair, it didn't sound too bad about half way through when he turned the treble knob down.

Not really impressed for a bass that's as expensive as that is though.

On the rare occasion I use them on bass I use the Dunlop purple ones, the delrin 1.5mm, or I use a brass Ice-Pix, which does sound quite nice.

For guitar I'm liking the Dunlop 1mm Tortex ones in light blue, tried the orange but they're a little too thin for me.

Grats, that'll get you some decent exposure!

You could fix that route you know, considering it's painted you could stick any bit of wood in there really.

And I did think this was a guitar at first glance, the EVH paint job style is rather iconic.

Gig situations. Made a SAD face from a graphic EQ. NOT a smiley one.

You need to boost the mids, cut the very lows a little bit, and you can tame the highs as well if you need/want to.

They're just different methods of getting the same result, a string that feels like a flat, but has a mix of the tonal qualities of both flats and rounds.

As with any string, the tone generally depends on the string's materials and how they go about producing it per manufacturer, rather than direct comparisons for production methods. After all, there's lots of rounds, they should all sound similar, but some can be quite different, same for flats.

[quote name='thedontcarebear' post='531722' date='Jul 3 2009, 02:28 PM']It is shoreline gold though, that is what the colour is actually called.[/quote]

Er, dunno how your monitors are set, but that's deffo not Shoreline Gold.

Sage Green Metallic yes, Shoreline Gold no. MIA's did come in Sage Green Metallic for a few years not so long ago.

Here, I'll even link to the Fender colour chart: [url="http://www.fender.com/resources/colors/"]http://www.fender.com/resources/colors/[/url]

I can definitely see the green tint, and it's lacking the redder tint that Shoreline Gold has.

[quote name='Linus27' post='529595' date='Jul 1 2009, 02:03 PM']I just fitted 2 Schaller strap locks to both my Laklands last night. The screw that came out of the body was fatter than the one that Schaller provide. So I had to re-use the Lakland screws. However, the Laklnad screw is too big to go through the Schaller fittings so I spent the next 2 hours filing by hand 4 Lakland screws and the hole where the head goes through and the screw goes through on the Schaller fittings. My hands today are now dead :)[/quote]

You do know if you've got a powerdrill and a vice handy you can clamp the screw in the drill bit, clamp the drill in the vice, then just set it on a slowish speed and hold a file to it to save time and give you an even head?

Well you do now


(Credit for the drill trick goes to someone on this forum, I think it was one of the people who've made their own basses but I can't remember)

Interesting, a SD replacement for the front pup of the Aerodyne is a tad unusual, most people (myself included) think the standard p-pup in it is quite alright, but vastly overpowers the j-pup in the arse end. Normally it's the J up for replacement.

Do a search on the forums for the inital SX threads and the order fest that was had last year.

I think I remember reading about a place in Ireland that stocks the decent ones, iirc they weren't branded SX, but we'd confirmed they were the same guitars from the same Asian factory. I think. It's a bit hazy.

Another +1 for Bryceee's Preamp valve thread. Good bit of information that is. Finnbass has the maintained version on it (like said in Bryceee's BC post).

You'll probably want to stick with a 12AX7 (ECC83) for it's gain factor of 100.

Now, G&L doing JB style should be interesting, I wonder what the pricing will be, because they'll probably be better than Fender's own offerings if they do for the £350-400 range and aim to challenge the Mexi's.

Sad news, he seemed like a nice bloke.

Condolances to his family.

Orange was my choice as metallic orange looks lush, but it's now relegated to 2nd, metallica lime would be awesome.

Obbm for leads.

General consensus around these parts are the Dunlop straplocks are the best, however Schallers come a very close second, just be wary that you need to use threadlock on the nut to secure it 100% as depending on strap thickness, there's not alot of turns left, and that the screws that Schaller use are ever so slightly thinner and shorter than Fender's at the very least.

I'm just waiting for Doctor_of_the_bass to post

I think it's the first prange syndrome.

You want to put off that first serious bit of damage as long as possible to something that looks new, once it's already "damaged" it's no longer an issue.

That's why I'm afraid of my Aerodyne, it just looks so pretty and tbh, a bit of pita to replace should it get killed.

Define "thin" in your context, you seem to refer both to thinness of a neck (depth) and width (sideways at nut).

If you mean depth, yes, the Geddy's have the smallest neck depthwise, they're modelled off his '70s Jazz where he sanded the neck down himself to make it thinner.

The depth depends on Fender really and which profile they've used for the neck, they define the Geddy as a "Thin C-Shape", and their '75 Vintage Reissue as a "70's C-Shape" and the current American standard as a "Modern C-Shape. The Marcus Miller model is decribed simply as a "One piece C shape".

This part of the FAQ from Fender helps to describe them: [url="http://www.fender.co.uk/resources/faqs.php#q14"]http://www.fender.co.uk/resources/faqs.php#q14[/url]

The width at the nut for a jazz bass is always 1.5" (38mm).


I've not tried a Geddy Lee to compare, so someone else will be able to do a comparison (or you can search the forums again, as they are on here), but bear in mind there will be very small differences anyway between production runs.


Edit #billion: I'll also point out that the Mex Standard and apparently the Geddy Lee don't have Graphite rods in the neck for stiffness and support like the USA Standard does, so it's entirely probable that you could buy a USA standard and sand it to make the neck even thinner than a Geddy Lee model if you so desired (best to get a luthier to do it incase you go too far though).

Just swap the cables round first for one of the pups then report.

If not, give Andy a ring, he'll be happy to help.

It's just a P-bass. Nothing special barring it being a CS variant.

Pitch and put Wayne?

Erugh, sunburst.

Any other colour would have been nicer imo, apart from tobacco burst.

Hmmm. [b]HHHHMMMMMMMMMMMM[/b]