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Hi guys

Just a heads up - I am going to enable two factor authentication as an option (but a strongly suggested one) for all members in the next few weeks. It is already mandatory for Admin, and will be rolled out with the Mod team soon as well.

If you're not familiar, it'll mean that you'll need to carry out a second step when logging in (or carrying out any of the actions below) by one of two methods - either entering the answers to three security questions which you can set up yourself, or by using Google Authenticator which generates a code for you to enter on BC. If you're on Safari/MacOS you can also use the in built 2FA setting and use your fingerprint or Face ID (Windows may have an equivalent, not sure)

Rest assured it's easy and helps secure your account which is becoming increasingly important. 

• 2FA is required when:
• Changing email address - The user will also need to re-enter their password.
• Logging into the front-end from a new device
• Managing Authorized Devices
• Logging into AdminCP
• Updating two-factor authentication setup, changing the online status visibility, requesting PII data or account deletion.
• Changing password
• Logging into the front-end from a known device - This does not apply if the user is logged in automatically because they have used the Remember Me checkbox.
• Managing alternative contacts
• Viewing, withdrawing or topping up account credit
• Managing PayPal Subscriptions
• Managing stored cards
• Editing personal billing information
• Managing addresses

Any questions or concerns just let me know!

Cheers

Chris

No, I certainly haven't

Don't know why but a refinish always puts me right off. Good job, otherwise I'd be much worse off!

I'm fine with a slab Mustang, but found a slab Stingray a tiny bit tricky when seated. I had a flat top Bacchus jazz which had quite a sharp edge which wasn't very comfortable either.

Belly cuts though - never seen the point. Maybe it's just me but the way I hold a bass, the belly cut is quite far to my right and not near my belly at all. I guess they save some weight, but if I actually put my belly there the bass would be wayyy too far to my left!

Roland GK system, internal install

Kaoss pad

Sims pickups?

Coil taps and phase switches

Varitone control

Might as well chuck some LEDs on there too

Bought a Spectracomp from Luke, even during a house move he managed to find it and have his wife post it very quickly. Thanks to you both!

9 minutes ago, dave_bass5 said:

Which version? I had both and preferred the guitar version at one point, then the full range one, then i think i went back i the guitar version as i found the full range one a bit clicky when using a pick. 

Oh I’m not sure - just the WL20 for guitar/bass. As in not the L version (is that what you’re referring to as full range?)

I’ll be using it with a passive bass 99% of the time so thought that was best. 

I have just bought a used Boss WL20 set so I'll give the a go. Generally love Boss/Roland gear so let's see. 

Here's mine, I think black pole pieces on a white pickup would look pretty cool and subtle.

Give the seller a call and have a chat, or do a Zoom. Then pay with Paypal (not Friends and Family) if you're still unsure.

No amp for home use. I go bass into backbeat G2, into pedalboard then into VB99 which is linked to computer and a TecAmp bassboard, then take headphones out of the VB99. Sounds and feels amazing, better than using an amp and bang on my studio sound with all the feel of a rig behind me. 
 

I don’t really consider it a ‘practice’ setup because before I was in my current band and even now I do most of my playing at home along with tracks. It’s my go-to setup for most of my playing as opposed to a compromise over my live setup. 

34 minutes ago, NancyJohnson said:

But then I need to put a price on it.

 You normally just put the price or trade value 👍🏼

None have the battery life if the Boss WL20 though 

What about the WS70? Has lower latency <3ms and looks pretty cool

I had an '83 Stringray which was YOB. That's not why I bought it though, and honestly it didn't matter to me much - kind of a nice coincidence but it's hardly relevant that it happened to be screwed together on the other side of the world the same year I burst onto the scene.

I use the 50t and 2x10 for practice and think it sounds great 👍🏼 

On 30/03/2024 at 07:51, ikay said:

Looks a bit odd to me. When a trussrod is maxed out the nut sinks deeper into the hole so the original pic does't really look maxed out. When you add washers it shouldn't sink even further in.

I think it was tightened all the way but not doing enough work, so with a nut added and more tightening it’s now engaging and flattening the neck, so the bullet is sunk in because now it tightens more than before. Seems logical and fine to me, if everything now seems stable and flat I’d be more than happy. I’ve had bullet truss rods where nearly the whole bullet is hidden (I like super flat necks) and never thought twice about it, although I always quite liked the look of being able to see more of the bullet itself. 
 

I’m always wary when buying any instrument because I know deep down that it’s normally going to need some adjustment to suit me, and I never know whether the bass will support said adjustments well enough until you’ve had it for a few days. As a result a honeymoon period is often spoilt and the real fun begins when you find that yes the action does go low enough and yes the frets are level and there’s no ski jump. 

Boring update from me (at least my wife struggled to feign interest). I got some longer screws for my bridge so I can intonate properly without the saddle being partially beyond the length of the screw. This necessitated a lot of research into the correct type, for which Fender were quite helpful but beaten to the punch by someone on Talkbass. 
 

If you look at most vintage mustangs you’ll see that the screws are not long enough to offer much adjustment, particularly in the D and G strings. Perhaps this is why the bridge is a tad further forward on reissues, who knows. 
 

Anyway the correct screws are Phillips UNC 6-32 2-1/2inch (or 2 inch for E and A). 
 

Exciting 😜

Hopefully a future update will allow us to force play this whenever a member has the tab open

I’ve never really bonded with 5s. I’m so used to playing 4 strings tuned in drop D that it feels off - for as long as I can remember my octave shapes in the bottom string have been altered accordingly. I’ve had loads though despite this, from Ken Smith, Vigier, Alembic, OLP, Carvin

I think they are one of the reasons that Fender/G&L/Musicman stopped using the micro tilt mechanism. There are loads of examples out there. It takes a long time to happen so add a shim now and you may never live to see it cause an issue. 

This is why I think filing down the bridge saddle grooves is the best option, depending on how much rom you need of course. Saddles are cheap, it's easy to do, gives you more  adjustability and avoids any possibility of a ski jump. I've done it on a few instruments, and of course on neck thru basses it's the only choice anyway.

This is a new one (to me at least)

Duesenberg Kavalier, 30.5" scale

About £2k though but the Triton bass they make is pretty cool sounding. Not 100% sold on the Art Deco style but I like the body shape.

https://reverb.com/uk/item/80823023-duesenberg-kavalier-bass-narvik-blue

File down the saddle grooves with abrasive cord 👍🏼

There's definitely something special about the originals isn't there! All of my pedals are massive so I nearly got the Aclam board which seems like a neat solution, if the clamps can take the weight of the muff. You don't want it falling off because it might kill someone!